ALL ABOUT OILS AND VINEGARS
As the weather gets warmer, salads become frequent menu options and the way a salad is dressed is as important as choosing the right lettuce or greens (April 28, 2022).There is a huge variety of commercial salad dressings, but basically they all narrow down to a base of oil and vinegar with added flavorings.
Although for many years restaurant tables were set with small carafes of oil and vinegar, they remained untouched. Customers preferred ordering from a ‘house selection’ of dressings and using bottled ones or mixes at home. Only in the past few decades has the individuality, uniqueness and fresh taste of making and/or creating a dressing for a salad at serving time, been appreciated. Now, customers often ask for specific vinegars or grade of olive oil in restaurants and keep a selection of each at home.
This culinary revolution started in the 1960s with the focus on Heart Health, cholesterol and saturated vrs. unsaturated fats, which led to an interest in different oils and a general appreciation of vinegars. The ability to season both, especially vinegar by marinating herbs, spices and bits of fruits, vegetables and even flowers was rediscovered and has resulted in a staggering array of flavors and possible combinations. Oils can also be marinated, but primarily, their flavors and characteristics depend on the plant matter from which they were pressed.
However, both oil and vinegar are ancient, among the oldest condiments known to man dating back thousands of years. I examine vinegars in detail in my post of July 13, 2016 and oils on June 30, 2016. I’m consolidating them here for expediency, but please click the links and get all the information.
—————————————————————————————————————————————–
Vinegar is a summer favorite. It’s the tenderizing agent in marinades, and adds the zing to dressings. Balsamic, on its own, is a tasty sauce for fresh fruit. Like oil, vinegar is ancient. There are records of it in Egypt before 3000 B.C., but unlike oils which are extracted by pressing, vinegar is the result of natural fermentation. The exception is White Vinegar which is a dilution of distilled grain alcohol, usually about 5%, in water. Rice vinegar and malt vinegar are also made from grains but through fermentation not distillation.
Fruit is the most universal basis for vinegar dependent on regional produce. Apples and grapes, also pears, peaches, and apricots lead in western cuisines whereas plums are favored in Japan. Eastern European countries use beets to make vinegar and Asian cuisines favor rice vinegar, often seasoned. A newcomer to the commercial scene is coconut vinegar, from the tropics, prized for its nutritional value.
The fruit based vinegars are easy to make and a god home project. Stored in a cool, dark place, in glass bottles, vinegar will keep almost indefinitely. I use a simpler way to make cider vinegar annually. For detailed instructions on both methods click the link provided above.
Flavoring vinegar is easy and decorative too, especially white wine vinegars which also allow faster flavor infusion. Simply put the flavoring agent, peppers, herbs, spices etc. in the vinegar and wait for the desired result. So long as the agents are clean and dry, the acidity prevents mold or impurities from developing as they can when flavoring oil. Again refer to above link for directions.
Tips on working with vinegar in the kitchen:
1) Be sure to stick to stated amounts in a recipe, or if ‘winging it’ add in small increments. Too much acidity ruins the taste of a dish.
2) Wipe-up spills with a towel and then wipe area with another dampened with clear water
3) Don’t try to flavor with any substance that can disintegrate. It is difficult to remove by straining and will cloud the finished item.
4) Adding small amounts to soups, stews, sauces and gravies can boost taste and give depth to the flavor.
5) A bit of vinegar added to water cooked in metal containers will prevent discoloration.
6) A few drops of vinegar added to beaten egg whites gives them stability.
7) Use as a replacement for citrus juice in dressings, sauces and some recipes.
8) Commercial imitations are made from red wine vinegar, fortified with concentrated grape juice and caramelized for color. They’re fine to deglaze sauces, flavor dressings or season slow-cooked meats. 9) Any vinegar can be used for pickling but the most widely used are cider in the west and rice in Asian cuisines. It’s a case of using native products in each region.
A note about Balsamic vinegar; Balsamic is the Gold Standard of vinegars. Made in Modena, Italy, from Trebbiano white grape juice, it is aged in a succession of barrels, each of a different wood to impart its special taste, for at least 10, but often 50 or even 100 years. It is not to be heated and is rarely combined with other ingredients. Pure balsamic is labeled ’balsamico tradizionael’ and meant to be savored drizzled over steaks or fresh fruits, especially berries. Usually seen in a deep brown, there is also a White Balsamic which has an equally intense flavor. Commercial imitations are made from red wine vinegar, fortified with concentrated grape juice and caramelized for color. They’re fine to deglaze sauces, flavor dressings or season slow-cooked meats.
Sherry vinegar goes through a similar process, being aged for 6 years in a network of barrels called solera. The best come from southern Spain and say Jarez or Xeres on the label.
A General Guide to Vinegars and Their Uses:
—————————————————————————————————————————————–
Balsamic (see note) Distinctive, intense, full bodied A garnishing drizzle over steak;
semi-sweet taste. Comes in light and sauce for fresh fruit; alone
dark varieties drizzled over a salad
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Cider and Fruit Unpasteurized will have the best Deglazing, vinaigrettes. Cider is
flavor. Mild, taste multipurpose good for pickling
Distilled White Vinegar Higher percentages of grain alcohol Commercially used in processed
give a harsh pungent flavor, 5% is mild foods and preserves. Home use
mostly cleaning and deodorizing
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Flavored Vinegars Best based on white wine vinegars Excellent for vinaigrettes or to add
Infused with fruits, herbs, spices. Subtle flavor to chicken, fish or
vegetable dishes
—————————————————————————————————————————————
Malt Vinegar Mild flavor depending on type of beer Pickles, dressings for vegetable
Often considered a condiment salads, fish & chips
————————————————————————————————————————————–
Red Wine Vinegar Best from a wine region, Italy, France or Deglazing sauces; flavor boost;
California. Good all-purpose kitchen choice combine with other ingredients
for robust vinaigrettes
—————————————————————————————————————————————–
Rice Vinegar Favored in Asian cuisines. Made in 3 vanities
White-delicate flavor, pale golden color Sauces for chicken, fish,
Chinese is harsher than Japanese vegetables
Red Dipping sauces
Black – Very esoteric Pickling
—————————————————————————————————————————————
Sherry Vinegar Sweeter and more complex than other Excellent vinaigrettes . Deglazing
Wine vinegars for pan sauces for chicken, pork or
beef
————————————————————————————————————————————-
White Wine or Subtle flavor and delicate Vinaigrettes especially for seafood
Champagne Vinegar chicken salads. Sauces for chicken
and fish. Delicate pickling
—-—————————————————————————————————————————————
Oils exist in infinite variety, many ancient but several new, if one includes the blends and infusions. They range from the delicate dessert flavorings, to the sturdy deep fry agents, and their shelf life varies as well, so it’s wise to forego buying exotic oil, until there is a specific request for it, lest it go rancid (stale). Oils should always be stored in a cool dark place, even refrigerated once opened to extend their life. This may turn them cloudy but they regain clarity when returned to room temperature.
Many wonderful oils remained locked in their ethnic cuisines until the movement to expand culinary horizons began in the 1960s with the resultant urge to intermingle ingredients. Now oils that were only found in specialty stores are in the supermarkets. Experimenting with them can be a marvelous taste adventure. Several can even stand on their own without help from other ingredients. A fresh pear salad on mixed baby greens is delightful lightly dressed with only a drizzle of walnut oil. Don’t be afraid to try different brands either, or different countries of origin
One test of oil’s functionality is its smoke point. This is the temperature at which an oil begins to smoke and will taint the taste of the food. The most fragile oils can’t stand up to any heat and will break apart. Hardier ones can be used for baking and light sautéing, but reaching their smoke point over direct heat will fog your kitchen and possibly ignite. The safest choices are the cooking oils, with high smoke points (consult the chart below) found on the market shelves often under generic brand names. There are several choices but I like canola oil. It’s lighter than the others, tasteless and can do multi-purpose, even a dressing base. Below is a chart of several oils, their distinctive qualities and their uses. For more information click the link given above.
Oils are classified as fats in food references. That category is in turn divided into two, saturated and non-saturated fats. Organically, there are two types of fats: solid and liquid. A third type, the trans-fatty acid, has been chemically engineered to bridge the gap between them.
Solid fats congeal at room temperature, and are composed of Saturated Fatty Acids. They derive mainly from animal sources, meat and dairy products, butter is a good example. On ingredient charts, solid fat content is listed simply as saturated fat. Although a certain amount of saturated fat is necessary in our diets, it’s wise to avoid excess. The body has difficulty in processing saturated fat and tends to store it, thus causing a weight gain. More importantly, because saturated fat raises cholesterol levels in the bloodstream, it is linked to heart and blood pressure problems.
Trans Fatty Acids are the middle ground. With two exceptions, coconut and palm oils, these are chemically created products that remain solid at room temperature by hydrogenating liquid oils. The result is that a portion of the liquid oil has been changed into a saturated fat. All margarines are in this category, as is Crisco, and fat levels vary. So read the label before you buy. Don’t make the mistake of thinking trans-fats are ‘figure’ friendly because caloric content remains fairly equal across this entire classification.
Non-Saturated Fats which includes oils, remain liquid at room temperature, and are called monounsaturated, when derived from vegetables and include the Omega 3 fatty acids found in some fish, and polyunsaturated, when derived from seeds, including nuts. Generally, non-saturated fats are believed to lower cholesterol levels in the bloodstream.
Some tips on working with oil:
• Oil can be reused for frying 2-3 times. Strain it well and cool before storing. Remove any odors by storing it with slices of raw potato.
• To prevent messy rings on cabinet shelves, wrap a doubled paper towel around the middle of the bottle, secured with a rubber band.
• To mop up a spill, cover with flour, wait a few minutes and wipe up with paper towels.
• To dispose of used oil, either seal it in a jar or sop it up with paper towels then seal them in a plastic bag
• Oil is hot enough to cook when the surface shimmers
• To replace butter with oil, use 80% of the butter measurement .
• When making marinades which are to be used for basting or heated for sauces, and when choosing an oil to grease a grill choose an oil with a high smoke point. See the chart below
• Oils can be infused to give them custom flavor. Olive oil is the favorite base choice. Make sure the infusing ingredients are clean and dry before immersing them to avoid bacterial growth. If using herbs, bruise them slightly to release their oil. Seal tightly in a jar and leave in the refrigerator for 1-2 weeks. Test to determine taste and when desired flavor is reached, strain and discard solids. Store, chilled for 1 month. Botulism is a concern, so at the first sign of spoilage discard it all. Alternatively, for quick results, heat the oil and infusions to 180 deg. cool, strain and serve.
OIL DESCRIPTION USE
—————————————————————————————————————–
Almond Toasted almond flavor, breaks down with heat Dressings, cold
desserts
———————— ——————————————————————————————–
Avocado Rich, buttery flavor, breaks down with heat Dressings, sauces
——————————————————————————————————————— Canola (Rapeseed) Flavorless, light yellow color, fairly high Dressings, sautéing,
Smoke point 435 deg. F frying, baking
———————————————————————————————————————
Corn Mild flavor, yellow color, fairly low Sautéing, light
smoke point 410 deg. F frying
——————————————————————————————————————-
Grapeseed Mild flavor, high smoke point 445 deg. F Dressings, sautéing, frying
———————————————————————————————————————
Hazelnut Aromatic hazelnut flavor, breaks down Dressings, sauces
with heat baking
———————————————————————————————————————
Olive * Mild to rich olive flavor, pale yellow to deep Dressings, sautéing
green color, fairly low smoke point 410 deg. F light frying
———————————————————————————————————————
Peanut** Neutral flavor, golden color, high smoke point Stir-frying, sautéing
450 deg. F frying
———————————————————————————————————————
Pumpkin Roasted pumpkin seed flavor, green color, Dressings, sauces
breaks down with heat
———————————————————————————————————————
Safflower Mild flavor, light texture, high smoke Sautéing, frying
point 450 deg. F
——————————————————————————————————————–
Sesame Strong nutty flavor, breaks down with heat Dressings, sauces
(toasted)
———————————————————————————————————————
Soybean Mild flavor, light color, high smoke point 450 deg.F Sautéing, frying
———————————————————————————————————————
Sunflower Light in flavor and color, breaks down with heat Dressings, sautéing
——————————————————————————————————————–
Walnut Rich walnut flavor, amber color, breaks down Dressings, sauces,
with heat baking
——————————————————————————————————————-
* Extra virgin olive oil comes from the first pressing and is the lightest in color and most delicate in flavor. It should be used for dipping and dressings only. Virgin olive oil can also be used for quick sautéing but not frying. Olive oil can be used for all three.
** Once popular, peanut oil has all but disappeared from kitchens and markets due to increasing hypersensitivity in the general public. However, it and its fellow groundnut oil Brazil nut, to which I react, are still used in commercial preparations. Read labels carefully especially on baked goods.
