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How To Choose And Use Vinegars In 2016

Vinegar is another summer favorite, though most of us don’t realize it. It’s the tenderizing agent in marinades, and gives dressings their zing. Balsamic, on its own, is a tasty sauce for fresh fruit. Like oil, vinegar is ancient. There are records of it in Egypt before 3000 B.C., but unlike oils which are extracted by pressing, vinegar is the result of natural fermentation, with one exception.

The exception is White Vinegar which is a dilution of distilled grain alcohol, usually about 5%, in water.  The commercial brands have a very mild taste and can be used in cooking, but it’s often recommended for cleaning and deodorizing purposes too. Rice vinegar and malt vinegar are also made from grains but through fermentation not distillation.

Fruit is the most universal basis for vinegar dependent on regional produce.  Apples and grapes, also pears, peaches, and apricots lead in western cuisines whereas plums are favored in Japan.  Eastern European countries use beets to make vinegar and Asian cuisines favor rice vinegar, often seasoned. A newcomer to the commercial scene is coconut vinegar, from the tropics, prized for its nutritional value.

The fruit based vinegars are easy to make and a perfect project for this season to perk up your winter meals. If you’re working with fruit, or have some over ripe-caution, not spoiled–to use, make sure it’s well washed, then put the cores, peelings or large pieces into a wide-mouth jar or non-metal bowl, cover with water and store, well covered, in a warm place. You can add more peelings later too. A scum or ’Mother’ will form. This is the agent that will produce the vinegar. When sufficiently strong in taste, strain the fluid, first through a colander then through a gauze lined fine strainer. Pour into a glass bottle with a tight lid. Stored in a cool, dark place, vinegar will keep almost indefinitely.

A simpler way to make vinegar is an annual occurrence for me. Every winter, I serve ’mulled’ cider. I put ½ gal. cider, a clove studded apple and about 4 sticks cinnamon in a pot, bring to a boil and pour into a punch bowl. The leftovers I funnel, minus the apple, back into the jar and relegate it to the garage. By summer I have cinnamon-flavored cider vinegar to use; even sooner if the bottle is left open or loosely capped. The same thing will happen with leftover wine or beer; leave it in the opened bottle and wait about 4 weeks.

Flavoring vinegar is easy and decorative too, as was popular a few years ago.  White wine vinegars are best for this, to allow infusion of taste. Simply put the flavoring agent, peppers, herbs, spices etc. in the vinegar and wait for the desired result. So long as the agents are clean and dry, the acidity prevents mold or impurities from developing as they can when flavoring oil. See post on oils 6/30/16

Tips on working with vinegar in the kitchen:

• Be sure to stick to stated amounts in a recipe, or if ‘winging it’ add in small increments. Too much acidity ruins the taste of a dish.
• Wipe-up spills with a towel and then wipe area with another dampened with clear water
• Don’t try to flavor with any substance that can disintegrate. It is difficult to remove by straining and will cloud the finished item.
• Adding small amounts to soups, stews, sauces and gravies can boost taste and give depth to the flavor.
• A bit of vinegar added to water cooked in metal containers will prevent discoloration.
• A few drops of vinegar added to beaten egg whites gives them stability.
• Use as a replacement for citrus juice in dressings, sauces and some recipes.
• Commercial imitations are made from red wine vinegar, fortified with concentrated grape juice and caramelized for color. They’re fine to deglaze sauces, flavor dressings or season slow-cooked meats. Any vinegar can be used for pickling but the most widely used are cider in the west and rice in Asian cuisines.  It’s a case of using native products in each region.

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A note about Balsamic vinegar; Balsamic is the Gold Standard of vinegars. Made in Modena, Italy, from Trebbiano white grape juice, it is aged in a succession of barrels, each of a different wood to impart its special taste, for at least 10, but often 50 or even 100 years. It is not to be heated and is rarely combined with other ingredients. Pure balsamic is labeled ’balsamico tradizionael’ and meant to be savored drizzled over steaks or fresh fruits, especially berries. Usually seen in a deep brown, there is also a White Balsamic which has an equally intense flavor. Commercial imitations are made from red wine vinegar, fortified with concentrated grape juice and caramelized for color. They’re fine to deglaze sauces, flavor dressings or season slow-cooked meats.

Sherry vinegar goes through a similar process, being aged for 6 years in a network of barrels called solera. The best come from southern Spain and say Jarez or Xeres on the label.

 

A General Guide to Vinegars and Their Uses:
—————————————————————————————————————————————–

 

Balsamic (see note)             Distinctive, intense, full bodied                      A garnishing drizzle over steak;
semi-sweet taste. Comes in light and            sauce for fresh fruit; alone
dark varieties                                                      drizzled over a salad
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Cider and Fruit                   Unpasturized  will have the best                       Deglazing, vinaigrettes. Cider is
flavor. Mild, taste multipurpose                        good for pickling

Distilled White Vinegar     Higher percentages of grain alcohol                  Commercially used in processed
give a harsh pungent flavor, 5% is mild            foods and preserves. Home use

mostly cleaning and deodorizing

——————————————————————————————————————————————

Flavored Vinegars           Best based on white wine vinegars                 Excellent for vinaigrettes or to add

Infused with fruits, herbs, spices.                    Subtle flavor to chicken, fish or

vegetable dishes

—————————————————————————————————————————————

Malt Vinegar                    Mild flavor depending on type of beer           Pickles, dressings for vegetable
Often considered a condiment                         salads, fish & chips

————————————————————————————————————————————–
Red Wine Vinegar         Best from a wine region, Italy, France or               Deglazing sauces; flavor boost;
California. Good all-purpose kitchen choice         combine with other ingredients

for robust vinaigrettes

—————————————————————————————————————————————–

Rice Vinegar                 Favored in Asian cuisines. Made in 3 vanities

                                        White-delicate flavor, pale golden color                Sauces for chicken, fish,

Chinese is harsher than Japanese              vegetables

                                        Red                                                                                 Dipping sauces

                                        Black – Very esoteric                                                   Pickling

—————————————————————————————————————————————

Sherry Vinegar          Sweeter and more complex than other                   Excellent vinaigrettes. Deglazing

Wine vinegars                                                              for pan sauces for chicken, pork or

beef

————————————————————————————————————————————-

White Wine or                   Subtle flavor and delicate                              Vinaigrettes especially for seafood

Champagne Vinegar                                                                                 chicken salads. Sauces for chicken

and fish. Delicate pickling

—-————————————————————————————————————————————–

Bonding With Children Through Cooking-A Summer Treat

The question “Can I help?” asked in the kitchen, depending on the age and/or experience of the person posing it can be either an offer or a request. The first is usually welcome but the second is frequently a problem. Perhaps making the recipe involves hazards, cutting and cooking, or more often the person doing the preparation is too short on time to stop to explain and instruct a novice. Unfortunately, a rebuff can make a person feel diminished; several can kill an interest in cooking. Above all it closes a door on a terrific opportunity for learning and bonding. Shared tasks, especially cooking projects have a special way of building relationships. You get to work together AND share the finished project.

Summer is the ideal time to explore these possibilities. The warm weather and prolonged daylight hours make everything more relaxed, even commuting to work.  The long light evenings make the days seem endless and dinner can be a bit later. Children are less stressed in the absence of work related projects and more receptive to creative ones. It’s the perfect time to introduce novices and newbies to the kitchen, share time with them and have the added advantage of teaching them skills that will ease future meal preparation; to say nothing of providing projects for rainy days that everyone can enjoy in any and all stages.

The book Can I help?  is perfectly geared to fostering these ‘kitchen connections’. It’s about using cooking to find ways to spend time and bond with children. The recipes are for adult dishes, 104 breakfast, lunches, dinners and desserts in fact, which are enjoyed by children. They’re recipes to make with children, not kiddie food to make for them.  All have been carefully selected and often modified to require only basic kitchen skills and cooking experience, just a normal degree of supervision, yet provide many tasks to keep a child busy, involved and interested.

Because the recipes are kept simple, the book can also serve as a training manual for older children, allowing them to progress to more difficult jobs. It’s also an excellent guide for the adult who wants to pitch in and help, without making them feel limited to ‘Cooking 101’.Included as well., are two proven complete Mother’s Day menus. One the children made with a little adult help, the other Dad pitched in.

The introduction contains instructions for the safe-handling of poultry, and suggested substitutions for ethnic diets are listed with specific recipes.  Among the dishes to be sampled are Oven Pancakes, Frittatas, Tuna Bean Salad, Strata Burger, Beef Kabobs, Cornish Hens with Wild Rice, fruit filled meringue Angel Nests and Zebra cake. These recipes plus 96 more, 25 in each category, are simplified but Oh so delicious. Since all are calculated to serve 4, but easily divided or multiplied, this book may become a go-to for family meals.

Following are a few sample recipes for dishes, other than those already mentioned, which will give you a wider idea of the audience the book can interest.

Breakfast Croissants: Serves 4

4 Croissants split and warmed
4 hardboiled eggs –sliced OR 4 flat scrambled eggs cut in strips
4 large mushrooms sliced
12 avocado slices
Other filling variations follow
To make flat scramble eggs, whisk eggs in a bowl, pour into a large, lightly greased skillet. Allow to spread evenly over the pan bottom, and then cook undisturbed over medium heat until eggs are set. Slide eggs onto a plate and cut into thin strips. Distribute among the croissants, top with the other chosen ingredients

Variations: Use 8 slices cooked regular or turkey bacon, with sliced tomato and lettuce leaves
Use 1/2lb. cooked, sliced ham and ¼ lb. sliced Swiss cheese–Optionally add pineapple slices.
Use your favorite ingredients
Eggs Parmesan: Serves 4—Custard cups or oven proof mugs are needed for this
4 slices Deli ham—optional-Turkey ham is a substitute
8 large eggs
8 Tbs. heavy cream, half-and-half, or evaporated milk
4 Tbs. Grated Parmesan cheese
Line each custard cup with a slice of ham. Break 2 eggs into each cup. Cover with 2 Tbs. milk or cream. Top each with 1 Tbs. cheese. Place cups on a cookie sheet and bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven until set about 12-15 min. Serve hot with rolls or toast.

 Chef’s Salad: Serves 4
1 head Bibb lettuce OR equal amount of iceberg or Romaine torn into bite-sized pieces
2 medium tomatoes in large dice
1 small onion – halved lengthwise and then thinly sliced
4 oz. of Swiss cheese sliced
4 oz. of Deli cooked chicken or turkey or 1 cup leftover
4 oz. Deli ham- or 1 cup leftover—Turkey ham is a substitute
8 oz. bottle of salad dressing – Caesar or Italian
4 hard-boiled eggs – optional – quartered for garnish
Cut the cheese and meat slices into 1 x 2 inch strips. If using leftovers cube the meat. Gently toss the vegetables and meat with the lettuce and drizzle with the dressing to taste. Optionally plate the salad and pass the dressing. Garnish each plate with 4 egg quarters.

Pita Melts: Serves 4
4 pita breads split in half
4 Tbs. spicy brown mustard
2 medium apples peeled and in thin slices
8 oz. shredded Cheddar cheese = 1 cup
8 slices Deli ham- Turkey ham is a substitute
Spread each pita half with ½ Tbs. mustard, then fill with 1 slice of ham, ¼ of one apple sliced, and 2 Tbs. of cheese. Place on a cookie sheet or foil and place on a low rack under a preheated broiler for 1-2 min. until cheese melts. Serve at once.

Chicken with Mustard and Honey: Serves 4-easy to divide and/or multiply
NOTE: The seasoning ingredients are placed under the skin to help them infuse the meat. This can be done by children, they can prepare the pan and count the cooking time.
4 large chicken thighs
4 tsp. honey
4 tsp. Dijon or grained mustard
¼ tsp. ground black pepper—optional
Garlic Powder NOT garlic salt
Mix the honey, mustard and pepper, if using. Lift the skin on the chicken and place 2 tsp. of the mixture on the meat sprinkle with garlic. Place the pieces slightly separated in a roasting pan. Pour ½ inch of water or broth in the bottom. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven for 30- 40 min. or until juices run clear when pricked with a knife point.
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 Suggested Sides: This entree goes well with broccoli, green beans or asparagus cooked and served with a sprinkle of lemon-pepper, and sweet potato fries cooked along with the meat in the oven.

 Salad Nicoise: Serves 4-6 Ideally this should be made with grilled Tuna steaks thinly sliced, but canned works well. Just be sure it’s a good brand of Solid White Albacore. This recipe is actually for 6 servings, but I find it does 4 well. Kids love making this because they can safely do most of it themselves…
1 head Boston lettuce – sometimes called “Garden” or “Bibb” – if not available buy Romaine NOT Iceberg
1 lb. redskin or new potatoes
1 lb. whole green beans
4 hardboiled eggs – peeled, halved lengthwise and chilled
1 large red or Bermuda onion in fairly thin slices
3 large or 4 medium tomatoes peeled and cut in medium slices OR pint box cherry or grape ones
(1) 2 oz. can anchovy fillets drained oil reserved for dressing
(1) 5 oz. can colossal pitted ripe olives – drained
(2) 7 oz. cans solid white Albacore Tuna in water – drained
Kosher salt
White wine
Dried tarragon
Fresh ground black pepper

DRESSING RECIPE
Cut the potatoes in quarters, or halves, depending on size. Boil them separately or together with the beans until the potatoes are done and the beans still crisp about 10 min.
Drain well, run under cold water to stop the cooking and cool. Place the potatoes and beans in an oblong container, so they can spread to marinate, with ½ cup white wine and 2 tsp. dried tarragon. Allow to marinate at least ½ hr. or all day. Separate the lettuce leaves, wash well and allow to air dry. Cover a large platter with the leaves. Pile the tuna, topped with the anchovies in the center, and attractively arrange the other ingredients, in separate sections, in a surrounding circle. Sprinkle with the salt and fresh pepper.
Dressing:-Wisk all ingredients together well
4 Tbs. minced shallots – onions will substitute
2 Tbs. dry mustard powder
5 Tbs. red wine vinegar
3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 cup olive oil plus the oil from the anchovies
2 tsp. dried tarragon
Taste and add some of the marinating white wine if it won’t dilute too much
Kosher salt
Fresh ground Pepper
Drizzle the dressing over the platter and serve the rest on the side.
Suggested sides: Some nice warm rolls – Clover Leaf perhaps or Crescent.

Dump Cake
2 cans fruit pie filling
1 box yellow cake mix
½ cup butter or margarine melted
1 tsp. ground cinnamon – optional
Spread the pie filling in the bottom of a 13 x 9 inch pan, mix with cinnamon if using. Cover with the dry cake mix and pour the butter over all. Do not stir. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 30 min. until top is golden. Serve with ice cream or whipped topping.

Easy Berry Angel Cake
1 purchased pound cake
8 oz. tub of Whipped Topping
1pt. box of strawberries
Save several nice berries for decoration.
Slice the rest and sprinkle with sugar. Allow to rest a few hours for the juice to extract itself. Just before serving, cut the cake into 3 layers. Spread first with 1/3^rd of the whipped topping, spoon ½ the sliced berries over it allowing the juice to drip down the sides. Repeat with 2^nd layer. Finish with 3^rd layer topped with the rest of the whipped topping and the reserved decorative berries.

Group Activity

Puppy Chow: Serves 14-16
¼ cup peanut butter
6 oz. =1 cup chocolate chips, dark or milk
6 cups cereal squares-rice, wheat, corn or a mixture
1 cup granulated, powdered or sifted light brown sugar
Melt the chocolate in a microwave safe bowl about 2-3 min. stir in peanut butter. Add cereal and stir gently to coat the pieces well without breaking. Put the sugar in a plastic bag and shake a little of the cereal at a time until all is coated well. Store air tight in a cool place.
TIP: 1 cup shredded coconut, ground to a fine powder in a spice or coffee grinder tastes better than the sugar, and is healthier. It’s even better if the coconut is slightly toasted first.