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EARLY SPRING VEGETABLES

Last week, I discussed our natural preference for lighter foods as spring arrives. One of the first things we look forward to are fresh vegetables but Nature doesn’t always run by our calendar. If winter lingers or more often if the holidays fall early, fresh produce isn’t available for special menus. That used to be a problem but, now, with air transport and flash freezing, most vegetables are in stores all year. Perhaps they’re not as young and tender as locally grown, but the taste and spirit of the season is still conveyed.

Over the years I’ve written many posts on different aspects and varieties of spring vegetables. You can check them out at these links  April 12, 2012,    April 19, 2013, April 21, 2014, May 17, 2014, April 9, 2015,  April 23, 2015,    March 31, 2016, April 6, 2016 , April 20, 2017March 15, 2018,   April 2, 2020 and  March 11,2021

Two tips on dealing with fresh or frozen vegetables at any season; first, they can always be made a bit special by preparing them in 2 quick ways. One to glaze them; boil or steam them to crisp tender, then sauté them with butter (about 1 Tbs. per pound) and appropriate seasonings until well coated and shiny. See carrots below. Two: braise them by immersing them in a flavored liquid, covering the dish and slow baking until vegetables are tender. See leeks below.

Second tip: adding herbs is the easiest way to flavor vegetables, especially in spring when herbs sre themselves, a new spring growth.

This year because the holidays run concurrently, I’m hoping the markets will be filled with lots of fresh choices, but in case the weather doesn’t cooperate, I’m going to focus on 12 cooked side dish and 1 salad recipe for 9 standby vegetables which will always deliver the desired effect in presentation and taste for spring meals. 

RECIPES

Asparagus
Break off the woody part of the stems and put the spears in a microwave proof dish in one layer, if possible, no more than two, or cook in batches. Microwave on high 3 to 9 min. depending on the thickness of the stems. If marinating, put drained spears on a serving plate, pour marinade over and allow to infuse as the asparagus cools, then refrigerate or serve. If saucing, shock spears with cold water, chill them and sauce before serving or sauce and serve hot.
For Marinating: A vinaigrette of choice is best
For Saucing: A plain white sauce is good or optionally for 4 servings combine

1 cup cooled cooking water

1 Tbs. cornstarch

Lemon pepper to taste

Dissolve the cornstarch in the liquid and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly until thickened. Add seasoning to taste. For a richer sauce, add 1 beaten egg yolk to the cooled sauce and reheat, over low, stirring constantly until sauce is quite thick. Check to adjust seasoning.
Garnishes: Asparagus loves to be decorated and will accept many things: sliced or chopped roasted or fresh peppers, chopped eggs, toasted chopped nuts and seeds, anchovies, capers, herbs crumbled bacon, even breadcrumbs.

Thyme Baked Carrots: Serves 4 
1 lb. carrots-small regular carrots are best for this-peeled, julienned (¼ x 3 inches)
1 cup chicken or beef stock
2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme-parsley, marjoram or sage will also due
2 Tbs. butter
Place the vegetables in a shallow baking dish, pour the stock over, season, scatter the thyme on top and dot with butter. Bake at 350 deg. for 35-40 min. until stock is absorbed and carrots are tender. Serve warm.

Orange Glazed Carrots: Serves 6- from 500 3-Ingredient Recipes by Robert and Carol Hildebrand
1 lb. baby carrots-cleaned and sliced on an angle
2 Tbs. butter
2 oranges
½  tsp. nutmeg
Boil carrots 7-9 min. until crisp tender, drain. Zest one orange and squeeze both. Place the juice, butter, zest and nutmeg in a skillet. When butter melts, add the carrots and sauté with rest of the ingredients over low heat, stirring gently for about 2-4 min. until glazed. If making ahead, reheat gently in the microwave and garnish with parsley.

Braised Leeks: Serves 6
Leeks are prone to retain soil. To clean cut to within 1 inch of the white part, soak well and hold under running water. If some dirt is still visible, cut them in half lengthwise.
6-8 Leeks-cleaned
1 cup + chicken broth
6 Tbs. Butter
Salt
Steam the leeks in a covered pot with the broth and salt to taste until tender. Drain and melt the butter in a pan, add the leeks and cook over medium heat, turning often, until lightly colored. Check salt and serve hot with butter pored over. Garnish with parsley or dill.

Braised Fennel: Serves 6
Simply replace the leeks in the above recipe with 3-4 trimmed fennel bulbs.

Leek and Potato Bake: Serves 4
2 large leeks trimmed –equal quantity of ramps about 6 to 8
2 lb. potatoes- a more floury variety is best here – Idaho, Russet, Eastern All-Purpose
1 ½ cups light cream
6 oz. Brie cheese sliced
Trim leeks (ramps), cut across in ½ inch slices and blanch for 1 min. Pierce the potatoes and microwave for 2 min. cool and slice thin. Put half the potatoes in a shallow baking dish and spread out to the edges and cover with 2/3rd of the leeks (ramps). Cover with the rest of the potatoes and tuck the other 1/3rdof leeks and the cheese around and slightly under the potatoes. Pour the cream over and bake in a preheated 360 deg.  oven for 1 hour until potatoes are tender. Cover with foil if the top begins to over brown.

Caramelized Shallots or Pearl Onions: Serves 4-6
1 ½ lb. shallots or pearl onions – skins peeled but root ends left on
1 Tbs. sugar
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
1 cup water, wine or broth
Sauté the shallots in the melted butter and the oil over medium heat until golden. Sprinkle in the sugar, toss to coat and continue to cook on low heat, until vegetables begin to glaze. Add liquid, cover and cook for 2-7 min. until vegetables are tender. Remove lid, allow steam to escape and cook until liquid evaporates and shallots are light brown and well glazed.

Green Peas, Lettuce and Scallions (Green OnionsServes 6

1 Tbs. butter

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Salt and pepper and lemon pepper

2 heads Bibb lettuce-halved lengthwise

3 bunches scallions—roots and tough green ends trimmed

1 lb. peas- frozen or fresh

1 Tbs. oil

Salt and pepper and lemon pepper

Melt the oil in a sauce pan over low heat; gently toss the lettuce and scallions to coat well.

Sprinkle with a little salt and freshly ground pepper. Butter, cover and cook 5 min. stirring once.

Add peas, toss to coat well in sauce and add ¼ cup water, cook 5 min. Uncover, increase heat to medium and stir constantly until water evaporates. Adjust seasonings using lemon pepper. Serve.
Peas and MintServes 4-6

1 lb. fresh or frozen peas

¼  cup. chopped fresh mint.

2 Tbs. butter

Steam or lightly boil the peas until crisp tender about 5 min or as stated on package. Drain, add mint or butter and toss to coat and mix, Serve at once.

Sautéed Radishes: Serves 4- from 500 3-Ingredient Recipes by Robert and Carol Hildebrand.
1 lb. radishes-trimmed and split lengthwise
1 Tbs. minced garlic
1 Tbs. rice vinegar or other light, flavored vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
Salt and pepper
Heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat, add the radishes, season and add garlic. Cook 5-6 min. gently tossing. Add the vinegar and stir to incorporate. Serve at once.

Spring Spinach Salad: Serves 6-8—depending on size of bag OR
7-12 oz. . fresh, spring spinach
4-6 red radishes= 1 per serving
¼ cup toasted, chopped walnuts
4-5 fresh strawberries per serving – halved if large
½ cup crumbled feta cheese—optional for garnish
Vinaigrette dressing of choice—Raspberry suggested
Wash greens snap off hard stems, wash and hull berries, wash and thinly slice radishes, discarding greens. Chill all ingredients, in water if necessary. Drain and divide the spinach among plates, scatter radish slices, then berries, nuts and cheese over. Drizzle with dressing.

Spinach Pie: Serves 4
(1) 10 oz. package frozen chopped spinach-thawed-excess water drained off
1 envelope beef or chicken bouillon granules
1 egg slightly beaten
pinch nutmeg
Mix first 2 ingredients, pour into a lightly greased casserole, sprinkle with nutmeg and bake 30 min.in a 350 deg. oven until set, or microwave 8-10 min. Serve hot. Transport as for corn above.

Berry NapoleonsServes 4
1 sheet puff pastry – rolled out to 9 x 12 inches
1 pint fresh berries of choice
1 ½ cup heavy cream or 2 cups whipped topping, or ice cream
Cover a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut the dough into (12) 3 x 3 inch squares. Bake on the paper in a preheated 400deg oven for 15 min. or until golden. Cool and store air-tight if not to be used at once.
TO SERVE: Whip cream if using. Lay a square of pastry on a plate, place a portion of the cream then berries on top. Place the next piece of pastry on an angle on top. If serving 6, garnish with powdered sugar. If serving 4, repeat layers, placing the top piece of pastry at another angle, garnish with powdered sugar.

Have a Happy Holiday and stop to take a look at the book. Even if you don’t follow a recipe, you’ll discover many useful tips. You can find it on the site bookshelf, Kindle and our Etsy store. It’s a lot of value for $3.99.

ROASTS FOR SPRING 2021

As spring approaches our natural inclination is to eat lighter. In warmer weather we need less fat and fortifying carbohydrates to sustain us. Of course the prospect of summer around the corner is motivation to cut back on calories and eat less too. The recipe suggestions in Spring Roasts for Easter and Passover, are selected for holidays, occasions or simply dinners at this season.  I’ve written several discussion of this subject specifically on April 5, 2012,   April 21, 2014, March 22, 2015,   March 22, 2018, April 1, 2019,  March 25, 2020 each with different takes on the book and one on brunch options  on March 23,2016. However, this is a real consideration this year because the spring holidays like all others, will be celebrated in smaller groups and menus changed accordingly.

 Spring roasts are smaller, more tender, than the hardy stars of fall and winter feastsAlso, in keeping with the season, spring roasts are treated in a lighter manner and/or presented in a more delicate cut, such as a rack rather than a leg, and are often served au jus rather than with thickened gravy. They are meant to be accompanied by and compliment the fresh, young produce of spring not overpower it.

Foods have changed with the times as well. They aren’t so seasonally specific. For example pork, formerly associated with colder weather is found on menus all year,  offering an economic option. Summer squash and asparagus are available in fall and winter. I deal with this subject in my post on Spring Roasts for March 22, 2018.  Incidentally, that post lists different entrée recipes than this, so you might want to check it out. I quote from it here. 

“Beef is welcome, but in cuts like fillet mignon, London broil and a seasoned brisket. Pork too is acceptable, as loin, tenderloin or the elegant chop display of a crown roast filled with steamed spring vegetables. Lamb is making a comeback as a mature animal because it’s sustainable, but the legs are larger and chops in racks are becoming favorites. Poultry is still popular and turkey has joined the line-up but as a Hotel Breast not a full bird. Ham, cured over the winter has always been popular too.

Spring Roasts does contain recipes for veal, which is still available in specialty butcher shops but recipes for veal, turkey, chicken and pork are interchangeableThere are also lots of recipes for sides and desserts. There are many menu options and available selections cover a wide price range resulting in a huge variety of possible presentations . This book offers suggestions for the complete entrée as well as tips on seasonal upgrades. For example, if you feel comfortable with your own method of roasting, say a chicken, there are ways to perk it up for spring.

  1. Rub the roast with oil and sprinkle inside and out with a dried herb of choice
  2. Instead of potatoes, roast whole carrots, onions or lightly blanched fennel quarters around the roast. About 40 min. before it’s done, add the vegetables with a bit of canned, condensed broth, baste them a time or two.
  3. Forget thickening gravy. Use the rest of the broth to deglaze the roasting pan at the end, adding a little wine or herbs to make a sauce to pass at table.
  4. Try one of the easy stuffings below. I suggest the rice because it’s lighter than bread. The first 2 recipes can be made ahead, frozen and thawed for use on the day

In general, for spring meals, I like to go easy on the carbs and serve several vegetable dishes,
including a leafy salad with fruit. If I’m catering to big or growing appetites, muffins, especially fruit ones or focaccia with a flavored topping are great fillers.” 

However, if you prefer stuffing, or want to roll a roast, there are seasonal options for that in Spring Roasts as well. Some examples are below:

RECIPES

Apricot Glazed Cornish Hens

 4 Cornish Hens
1 cup apricot nectar
4 Tbs. apricot jam
1 tsp. butter – melted
Marinate the hens in a plastic bag with the nectar, in the refrigerator for at least 2 hr. turning often. Remove the hens, reserving marinade, and place in a pan breast side up. Bake in a 350 deg. oven basting with marinade often during first 40 min. Mix butter with jam and baste the hens a final time. Bake 20 min. more or until hens are tender. Deglaze pan drippings with a bit of white wine or apple juice and serve with the hens.

Duck with Cherries

(1) 4lb. duckling
2 cups white wine or apple juice
Salt, pepper, powdered ginger –
2 Tbs. flour
(1) 20 oz. can pitted Bing cherries in syrup
Clean the duck, trim the fat and remove the oil gland. Place the duck on a rack in the sink, prick the skin with a fork all over and pour 2-4 cups of boiling water over the duck. This shrinks the skin and helps it crisp. Sprinkle with the seasonings and put the duck, on the rack in a pan into a preheated 450 deg. oven for 15 min. reduce heat to 350 deg. and cook for 20 min. per pound until tender. Baste often with the wine or juice, using all. When duck is done, keep warm. Strain fat from pan drippings. Mix the flour with the drippings and cook until smooth and thickened. Add the cherries with syrup and heat through. Spoon some of the sauce over each portion as served and pass the rest.

Chicken with Herb Butter
6 lb. oven roaster
5 cloves garlic – mashed
1 cup mixed chopped fresh herbs- rosemary, thyme, sage & parsley OR ¼ cup mixed dried herbs
¼ lb. butter softened
Salt and pepper
2 cups water or broth –   more if needed
1 Tbs.cornstarch

Mix herbs, butter and garlic. Gently lift the breast skin on the chicken and spread about ¼ the butter mixture under the skin on each side. Put the chicken in a roasting pan breast side up. Gently dot some of the butter over the top and pour about ¼ cup both in the pan bottom. Put the chicken in a preheated 350 deg. oven and roast 30 min per pound dotting with the remainder of the butter and adding broth to keep the pan drippings fluid during roasting. Don’t baste unless it looks dry. Remove the chicken to a serving plate and tent with foil to keep warm. Mix broth with the pan drippings to equal 2 cups. Whisk in the cornstarch and stir over medium heat until slightly thickened. Serve with chicken.

Chicken with Fruit Stuffing.
6 lb. oven roaster
¼ cup diced onion
¼ cup diced celery
1 large cooking apple like Granny Smith, peeled, cored and in large cubes
1 orange cut in half and segments removed—rind zested and reserved
1/3 cup raisins\
½ tsp. each dried thyme, rosemary and sage
1 egg
6 slices cinnamon raisin bread – lightly toasted and torn in 1 inch pieces OR 6 slices white bread lightly toasted with ½ tsp. cinnamon added to the mix
@ 3 Tbs. orange juice or apple juice – more if needed to just moisten stuffing
Salt and pepper to taste
Chicken broth
1 Tbs. cornstarch

Mix all the ingredients above except the broth and cornstarch, adding only enough fruit juice to moisten. Stuff the chicken and put it in a roasting pan breast side up, with ½ cup broth in the bottom. Cook 30 min. per pound, adding broth to keep pan drippings fluid. When chicken is golden and juices run clear, remove to a serving plate and add enough broth or, optionally, broth and fruit juice to pan to equal 2 cups. Whisk in cornstarch and stir over medium heat until slightly thickened. Serve with roast.

Rack of Lamb: Allow 1 chop per serving
Number 1
2 racks of lamb
½ cup mint jelly
2 Tbs. vinegar
Trim the meat well and place fat side up in a roasting pan. Brush with jelly melted with vinegar and roast 375 deg. 15-20 min per pound. Brush with rest of the jelly mix just before finished. Serve on a platter and divide into servings at table.

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Number 2
2 racks of lamb
½ cup panko- lightly crushed
2 tsp. garlic powder
2 tsp. chopped fresh chives
3 tsp. chopped fresh mint
1 Tbs. lemon juice
1 tsp. lemon zest
Water
4 Tbs. butter
SAUCE
1 Tbs. lemon juice
½ cup white wine
2 Tbs. mint jelly
4 Tbs. butter
Mix the panko and next 6 ingredients in a bowl using just enough water to bind. Trim lamb and press breading into meat, Place bones down in a pan, drizzle with butter and roast 375 deg. for 15-20 min per pound. MAKE SAUCE by deglazing pan with lemon juice and wine, add a bit of water if more liquid is needed. Dissolve first jelly then butter in pan to make sauce. Serve drizzled on plates when carving.

Leg of Lamb with Mint Sauce

5-7lb. leg of lamb
½ cup of mint sauce – a vinegar based sauce, not mint jelly. For recipe see p.28*
¼ cup of cider vinegar
1 cup chicken broth
1 cup beef broth
3Tbs. flour
Trim all the fat from the lamb, rub with the vinegar and place in a roasting pan with ¼ inch of water. Pour about ¼ cup of mint sauce over the lamb and put in a 325deg. oven. Roast 13-15 min. per pound for rare, 16-18 min for medium After 15 min. pour over the other ¼ cup of mint sauce. Baste frequently with drippings, adding water as necessary to maintain the liquid level. Meanwhile, dissolve the flour in 1 cup broth. When meat is done, remove to a plate and keep warm. Use I cup of broth to deglaze pan add to the cup with the flour in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer and stir until thickened. Serve hot with the meat and pass mint jelly on the side.
* Mint Sauce:
Per bunch of fresh mint- I use spearmint;  Cut off the thickest part of the stems and any root tendrils. Wash the leaves well. Place in a stockpot and just cover with apple cider vinegar. Bring to a simmer and add sugar to a sweet-sour taste. Don’t over sweeten. You may use sugar substitute. Cook until stems are soft—about 5-8 min. Cool and blend or process until mint is almost a powder. Pour into glass bottles. Leave to cool completely and screw on tops. I use well cleaned 8oz.salad dressing bottles. Store in a dark place at room temperature.  Keeps for months.

Rub this over the leg of lamb before roasting and add a bit to pan drippings to baste. I make gravy of the pan drippings and 2 beef plus 1 chicken bouillon envelopes and 2 cups water mixed with ¼ cup mint sauce, pan drippings and about 5 Tbs. flour or 2 ½ Tbs. cornstarch.

For broiled lamb chops, or lamb patties, I pour a light covering of mint sauce over them before cooking.

Sauce can also be used for flavoring in Sheppard’s Pie, stews, soups etc.

Excellent over fresh fruit and vegetables.

Pork Loin and Beets: Serves 4- from Bon Appetit.com
¼ cup walnuts
3 Tbs. plus ½ cup olive oil
1 ½ pounds pork tenderloin
Kosher salt
2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
3 medium golden beets, scrubbed, cut into bite-size pieces
Freshly ground black pepper
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 cups sauerkraut, plus ½ cup brine
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
½ cup dry white wine
4 Tbs. fresh lemon juice, divided
½ cup finely chopped mint”
½ cup finely chopped parsley
¼ cup finely chopped dried tart apricots
Toast walnuts in a skillet or on a rimmed baking sheet, in a 350 deg. oven, tossing once, until golden brown, 7–10 minutes. Let cool, and chop. Heat 3 Tbs. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Season pork loin with salt and cook until browned on all sides, 10–15 minutes. Transfer pork to a platter. Add onions and beets to same skillet and cook, stirring often, until onions are slightly translucent and browned, 10–12 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Add garlic, sauerkraut, brine, broth, wine, and 2 Tbsp. lemon juice and bring to a simmer. Cover skillet, reduce heat to low, and cook until beets are fork-tender, 25–30 minutes. Return pork to skillet and push down into liquid. Turn heat up to medium and simmer, uncovered, turning occasionally until instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of loin registers 150 deg., 20–30 minutes. Transfer pork to a cutting board and let rest 5 minutes before slicing.
Meanwhile, mix walnuts, mint, parsley, apricots, remaining 2 Tbs. lemon juice, and remaining ½ cup oil in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper. Spoon beet mixture onto plates and arrange sliced pork on top. Spoon a generous amount of walnut sauce over.

Spinach Stuffed Pork Loin: Serves 6
3 lb. boneless pork loin
(1) 4 oz. can mushroom stems and pieces
½ cup diced shallots
1 garlic clove-minced
2 Tbs. brandy
1 Tbs. butter
(1) 10 oz. box frozen, chopped spinach-thawed
1 Tbs. oil
Salt and pepper to taste
2 cups condensed canned chicken broth + more if needed
¼ cup white wine
Mix the broth and the wine. Butterfly the pork by lengthwise slicing almost through. Open it like a book and make similar slices down each half. Cover with plastic wrap and pound the meat to an even thinness. Sauté the shallots and mushrooms in the butter until golden, remove to a bowl. Add the oil to the pan and toss the spinach over with the garlic, remove to the bowl with the shallots and add seasonings. Save any pan juices and add to the broth mix. Spread the vegetable mixture on the meat to within a about an inch of each edge. Roll the meat around the stuffing, starting with a long side and secure with string. Pour over about ½ cup of broth mix and cook in a 350 deg. oven about 1 hr.45 min. >2 hrs. adding more broth mix as necessary. Deglaze the pan with the rest of the broth mix and pass at table.

Baked, Glazed Ham: For those on restrictive diets, Smoked Turkey can be substituted for the ham. The GLAZE is an old family recipe

1 ham, shank or butt 7-10 lbs.
½ cup molasses
2 Tbs. cider vinegar
@24 whole cloves
2 cups apple juice + more if needed
1 small can pineapple rings
4-5 Candied or Maraschino cherries + equal number of toothpicks
½ cup raisins
Trim all fat from the ham, lightly score the top and dot it with cloves.  Put the ham in a roasting pan with 1 cup of apple juice to prevent sticking, and set it in a 350 deg. oven. After about 20 minutes, or when the scoring opens, baste it with ½ the glaze and add more juice to the pan, if needed. Allowing 15min. per pound, halfway through the cooking, add a bit more juice to the bottom of the pan to deglaze and baste with that, then spoon ½ the remaining glaze over the ham. 30 min. before it’s finished,  open a small can of pineapple slices and, reserving the juice,  place 4 slices on top of the ham, centering each with a cherry on a toothpick, then spoon the remaining glaze over them.
Raisin Sauce

Meanwhile, combine the reserved pineapple juice and enough apple juice to make 2 cups, with 2Tbs. cornstarch and ½ cup raisins. Stirring constantly, I bring the mixture to a boil in a small saucepan until it thickens and clarifies. Add the pan drippings and stir to incorporate. To make a delicious Raisin Sauce!

STUFFINGS –Stuffing with egg tends to puff and rice spills out. An easy way to keep the stuffing in a bird is to flatten a piece of bread with a can or rolling pin to compact it and place it over the cavity opening secured with a couple of poultry pins or skewers.

Apricot and Herb StuffingYield 3 cups-Adapted from Memorable Roasts published by Konemann
1 cup chopped dried apricots
1 onion chopped
1 stalk celery chopped
¾ cup raisins
1 Tbs. dried parsley
¼ tsp. EACH dried sage, thyme, rosemary
About ¼ cup milk*
3 cups fresh breadcrumbs*
1 egg beaten*
Mix all the ingredients adding just enough milk to hold it loosely together and seal in a freezer bag or covered container. To use, thaw and stuff bird, cook as directed.
*Replace these ingredients with 3 cups cooked rice—suggestion brown rice.

Walnut and Ham Stuffing: Yield 3 cups- Adapted from Memorable Roasts published by Konemann
1cup finely chopped ham
½ cup chopped walnuts
½ cup chopped mushrooms
¼ cup chopped parsley
About ¼ cup milk*
2 cups chopped breadcrumbs*
1 egg beaten*
Mix all the ingredients adding just enough milk to hold it loosely together and seal in a freezer bag or covered container. To use, thaw and stuff bird, cook as directed.
*Replace these ingredients with 3 cups cooked rice—suggestion brown rice

Fruit Stuffing for Duck: Yield about 3 cups
2 apples, peeled, cored and diced
½ navel orange sectioned + 1Tbs. slivered orange peel OR (1) 8oz. can mandarin oranges, drained
About ¼ cup orange juice or milk
1/3 cup raisins
1 small onion chopped
1 stalk celery chopped
1 tsp . dried sage
3 slices raisin bread toasted-torn in1 inch pieces
Mix all the ingredients adding just enough liquid to hold it together. Stuff bird and cook as directed.

BEETS AND CABBAGE DRESSED FOR SPRING

Mother Nature rarely adjusts her schedule to ours, especially when it comes to delivering spring produce by dates we dictate. While we’re ready for warm weather, the sight of flowers and new grass, she ignores March 21 as her opening day, usually opting for another month or so to have the first produce crops ready. So here we are, with our appetites primed for spring, ready for fresh seasonal vegetables, forced to wait as the saying goes; “For nature to take her course.”

Of course there’s always frozen and produce transported from a distance, but they don’t have the succulence of the fresh local crop and, for me, kind of spoil the anticipation. My solution is to turn to new ways to present a few year ‘round favorites.

Cabbage, for example, is boiled or served as kraut in winter, yet coleslaw is a regular at summer meals, so it qualifies as a bridge between seasons. Serving it in some different ways to show off its freshness gives it a new appeal. I’m looking forward to making Pepper Hash (see description below with recipe) this weekend. I come from a seaside resort town, where fish was plentiful and every market had a large container at the fish counter. I hadn’t realized how much I missed it until I started this post and that I’ve never served it at home. It will be a spring treat, adding zip to a meal and giving my family a new fresh, taste experience.

Red beets are another vegetable that spans the seasons. Served hot in winter, they’re just as good cold, pickled beets really perk up summer meals. Once very popular, they’ve lagged for a few decades despite the introduction of new ‘heritage’ varieties. It’s a shame because beets are flavorful, versatile and full of nutrients. Moreover, the juice from pickled beets does wonders for hard boiled eggs, and preserves them for up to a month—good to know with Easter coming up! Pickle some beets and you won’t have to worry about how and how fast to use up those eggs from the hunt.

Actually cabbage and beets are great partners. There are several recipes for them together, and the other night, feeling creative, I made a salad of slivered cabbage wedges, pickled beets, sliced onion with toasted walnuts and feta cheese in a wasabi infused vinaigrette garnished with dill seeds. It was so good I plan to have it again this week, adding left-over roast pork and probably some bugler to make a full dinner. I’ve included some recipes combining them below.

So until Nature presents us with this year’s produce, try satisfying your craving for fresh seasonal food by putting new twists on standard fare. The recipes below are only a few suggestions but I’m sure you’ll like them and, hopefully, find some to build on to suit your personal choice.

RECIPES

Braised Cabbage: Serves 4
1 head cabbage -2-3 lb.
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
½ cup white wine
2 tsp. chopped fresh dill or 1 tsp. dry dillweed
Salt and Pepper
Wash and drain the cabbage . Cut in large cubes. Saute over medium heat in the oil and melted butter, tossing with two spoons until slightly wilted and lightly browned. Add the wine and seasonings, cover, reduce heat and cook down until crisp tender, about 5-8 min. Uncover and allow liquid to cook down a bit. Serve hot.
VARIATIONS: Substitute tarragon for the dill. Saute 2 pkgs. Small sausages (like Brown and Serve) in pan first. Drain any fat in pan. Cut sausages in 4 pieces and reserve. Proceed as above and return sausages to pan when it’s uncovered for final heating.
OPTIONALLY: Microwave 3 medium potatoes until just tender, about 2 min. Cut in large pieces and brown in pan after sausages are done, adding extra butter and/or oil as needed. Remove and return to pan with sausages to heat through.

Stir-Fried Cabbage: Serves 4
1 ½ qts. shredded cabbage
1 onion thinly sliced
½ green bell pepper julienned
2 tsp. minced gingerroot or ½ tsp. powdered ginger
1 garlic clove-minced
½ cup any broth
Toss vegetables in a sauté pan over medium heat for 2 min. before adding broth and seasonings. Toss well then cover and steam 3-8 min. until just crisp tender.

Pepper HashYield 6 cups
A nice change from creamy Cole slaw, this vinegary hash tastes great with barbecued chicken, ribs, hamburgers, grilled steak…in other words. It’s a perfect addition to any summertime cookout. The recipe can be easily doubled to feed a crowd
½ medium green cabbage (about 1 ¼ pounds)
½ green bell pepper
½ red bell pepper
1 carrot, peeled
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon mustard seeds
½ teaspoon celery seeds
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper .
Finely shred the cabbage, bell peppers, and carrot and combine in a large bowl. Combine the vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, celery seeds, salt, and pepper in a small saucepan and cook, stirring, over low heat until sugar is dissolved, about 5 min. Pour the hot mixture over the vegetables and toss well to coat. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least four hours (or overnight) for flavors to develop.

Cabbage and Beet Relish: Yield=1quart
2 qts. cooked beets peeled and chopped
2 qts. cabbage chopped
1 cup grated horseradish
2 cups sugar
2 tsp. salt
Pepper to taste
Vinegar to cover
Toss solid ingredients and place, well mixed in a gallon jar with a wide neck . Pour in vinegar to cover and store in a cool place. Test for taste frequently. Serving time is optional according to taste.

Cabbage and Beet Sandwiches: Yield 6
1 cup shredded cabbage
1 large cooked beet-chopped
½ green bell pepper-chopped
6 black olives – sliced
½ cup Russian dressing
12 slices pumpernickel bread or rye bread
Butter on side of each slice of bread. Mix other ingredients with dressing and spread on bread.

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Pickled Beets: This can be made using freshly cooked beets or canned
Place cooked, peeled and/or sliced beets in a pot, covered in their juice. Remove half the juice and replace with vinegar. Add sugar and salt to taste. (Optionally other flavorings are added according to ethnic recipes, also to taste, cloves, caraway, peppercorns, allspice sliced onions and horseradish.)
Bring to a simmer, reduce heat and cook until the sugar dissolves and beets are heated through. Remove and allow to cool. Store covered in a cool place and allow to marinate for at least 36 hrs. These will keep for months properly stored. Serve well drained .
NOTE: After the beets are eaten the juice is a wonderful marinade to devil hard-boiled eggs. Put the eggs in a jar, covered with the juice and allow to pickle for at least 5 days. They should be a purple color. They are eaten whole, deviled and chopped into a salad. Don’t worry if they feel hardened, that’s to be expected.

Beets with Herbs: Serves 4
12 small cooked and peeled beets- canned-drained will do(save the juice to devil eggs)
4 Tbs. butter
½ cup sliced scallions
¼ cup chopped parsley
1 Tbs. fresh tarragon = 1 tsp. dried
1 ½ Tbs . sugar
¼ cup white wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
Leave whole or slice the beets. Melt the butter in a saucepan; add the beets and the other ingredients and heat through. Serve hot.
OPTIONALLY: Add 1 cup sour cream at the end and just heat through.

Beet Baskets: Per portion
The amounts vary with the choice of ingredients and the size of the beets, depending on their intended use. Small ones make canapés, medium ones are for sides and large ones can be entrees.
Boil and peel the beets, slice off a sliver of the bottom so they stand upright. Then hollow out the center, leaving at least a ½ inch shell on the large ones.
For 6 Servings:
6 medium beets prepared hollowed out- pulp reserved and chopped
1 cup chopped cooked beet greens*
1 hardboiled egg-chopped
1 slice of cooked bacon-diced
1 Tbs . chopped onion
1 Tbs. melted butter
Salt and pepper
Parsley for garnish
Mix all the ingredients but the parsley and stuff the beets. Place them in a flat bottom pan in a preheated 350 deg. oven and heat them through. Garnish with parsley and serve hot.

VARIATIONS:

1)Cold peas and chopped celery mixed with mayonnaise, or another creamy or boiled dressing

2)Chopped hard-boiled egg and chopped sweet pickle mixed with French dressing and a dash of mustard

3)Chopped hard boiled eggs mixed with tarragon chives and mayonnaise

4)The beet pulp chopped and mixed with chopped sautéed onions

5)Cheese flavored rice

6)Canned herring or mackerel can be combined with any of the above stuffings

7)Horseradish can be added to any of the stuffings where acceptable and horseradish dressing can be substituted for any suggested ones.

*NOTE: Beet greens are a wonderful vegetable by themselves, much like any other leafy green such as spinach and kale and like them 1lb. =2 servings.
1) Wash the greens well and briefly blanch them in boiling water. Drain them well and sauté them in melted butter with 1 Tbs. lemon juice and garnish with a pinch of nutmeg.
2) Wash and blanch them as above, then sauté in oil with chopped garlic.

HOW TO EASILY DIY ‘CORN’ MEATS

A few years ago, I wrote Some Saint Patrick’s Day Recipes-From Canapes to Coffee. Even then the holiday was reduced from its former free-wheeling status but people still celebrated with parades and, of course, green beer at the local pub, both of which are out of the question now due to social restrictions.  However, what makes the day unique is that, aside from Thanksgiving turkey, it’s the only holiday when Americans traditionally share the same menu-corned beef and cabbage. I wrote posts on Saint Patrick’s Day on March 16, 2012March 14, 2013,   March 13, 2014,  March 11, 2015,   March 9, 2016,   March 8. 2018Feb. 28, 2019March 5, 2020.Most are similar but they do have different slants on menus and leftovers

Cuts of beef, both brisket, now sold as ground, and the leaner rounds, sold as roasts, used to be readily available corned in markets. The dish was featured in restaurants and home kitchens filled with its aroma. Now it’s a rarity, probably for several reasons. Our national palate is less intrigued by simpler recipes, and we are too busy for time-consuming cooking tasks, but above all, the price of beef makes us reluctant to prepare it in any way that alters beef’s natural taste. 

Younger people know corned beef as the base of a Ruben; older ones will recall it as the main ingredient in hash, once considered a budget meal and a popular sandwich cold cut. It has a distinct taste, not as spicy and much leaner than pastrami and less salty than ham. There is definitely room for it in the culinary larder but as stated, beef is expensive to be used this way. 

I have found what, for me, is an acceptable, affordable solution. Years ago, I read an article by Julia Child describing her relief she had corned a beef round that week when confrontation by unexpected luncheon guests. It shocked me because I had always thought ‘corning’, if not messy or complicated, to be a lengthy process. Instead it’s easy and simple, taking, optionally 3-5 days and just refrigeration.

First I corned a small bottom round, cutting the corning ingredients by half, and it was perfect! Then realizing beef prices were going up, I began looking for alternatives, especially smaller options for empty nesters like me. I had a ham, so I cut a lobe off, corned it and was floored when I was complimented on the flavor of the corned beef and cabbage. It was a born stand-in.

Well, whole hams aren’t too budget friendly either, and meat has continued its costly rise, so this year I went a step further. I bought a whole Boston butt on sale and butchered it myself. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D10lJYqjLB4)  I got enough for 4 servings of pork and kraut, 3 of country ribs, enough roast to corn for 2-3 portions with cabbage and enough for a pork roast yielding 5-6 portions.

There was no difference in the color, texture or taste of these meats and commercial corned beef but they were a big economy and one I intend to repeat often and expand upon by making my own deli meat.  I’ll be featuring corned meat as a cold cut and in sandwiches in the future. Although I’ll use pork loin, if I’m planning a cold cut platter. If you want to try corning other meats and cuts, my book The Meat Stop will provide all the information needed along with diagrams. Find it on the site bookshelf, kindle or our Etsy store.

On the flip side, an improvement to Saint Patrick’s Day in the U.S. is the availability of Kerry Gold butter in most markets in March, some carry it all year. The butter is made from the fresh cream of cows grazed on grassy green Irish meadows, which results in its bright golden hue. The higher fat content gives baked goods a buttery taste and adds a flaky texture. As a spread there’s no comparison. If you haven’t tried Kerry Gold, please do. You’ll be so glad you did.

‘CORNING’ DIRECTIONS: Note-the amounts of corning seasonings and cooking times should be adjusted to the poundage of the meat according to the original formula for beef, no matter which type you choose.

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For Beef:

For 5-6 lbs. of beef –any cut—Allow to marinate 36 hrs. to 8 days- Adjust ingredient amounts according to the poundage of the cut being corned.
6-8 cups water or enough to cover by 1 inch
1 cup salt
3 Tbs. brown sugar
1 bay leaf
6 peppercorns
1 clove garlic-minced
¼ tsp. choice of any or all—whole allspice, paprika, ginger, mustard powder, nutmeg or mace.-I use allTrim the meat of fat, wipe with a damp cloth and pierce all over with a fork. Place in a glazed ceramic, glass or enameled pan that fits comfortably and is deep enough to allow for full immersion in the brine. Put all the above spices and seasonings in 4 cups warm water and stir to dissolve the sugar and salt.  Pour over the beef. Add enough water to cover the meat by 1 inch. Place a weighted plate on top and leave to marinate in a cool or cold place for at least 3 days, better 5-8.
The first time I did this I used a glazed terra cotta planter, then I found an enameled roasting pan in a flea market. For weights I use a Dollar Store plate and a brick, then seal the pan with plastic wrap. I only make this in winter, so if I don’t have room in the refrigerator, I put it on a shelf in the garage—just as long as it doesn’t freeze.

Corning Ham:
Last year, on a hunch, I cut a lobe from a ham shank and used the corning ingredients, minus the salt and water, as a dry rub. I put it in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for a week and boiled it as I would a corned beef, timing adjusted to the poundage of the meat. The taste was close enough to corned beef to fool everyone who ate it, even sliced cold, and the price difference was well, the difference between beef and ham.
1 to 2 lb. lobe cut from a ham
Omit the water and salt from the above list of ingredients
measure half quantities of the remaining spices and seasonings all in ground form.
Mix those items and use them as a dry rub for the ham. Seal the ham in a plastic bag and refrigerate it for 4-7 days. Remove from plastic, leaving rub on, cover with broth and cook as for corned beef.

Corning Pork
Use a boneless roast either cut from the butt or the loin
Follow the directions for beef, adjusting the amount of corning ingredients and cooking times to the weight of the meat. This was the most wallet friendly choice and one I intend to make to supply cold cuts-another big saving. 

RECIPES

Corned Beef Salad: Serves 4
¾ lb. sliced corned beef- in ½ inch dice
4 medium boiled potatoes- in ½ inch dice
4 medium cooked or canned red beets- in ½ inch dice
1 Kosher dill pickle- in ½ inch dice
4 Tbs. salad oil
2 Tbs. wine vinegar
½ tsp. mashed garlic or ¼ tsp. garlic powder
2 tsp. spicy brown or Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. chopped fresh chives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Lettuce leaves
2 hardboiled eggs cut in quarters or sliced

Combine first 9 ingredients in a salad bowl. Add a bit of salt to taste and about 6 generous grinds of pepper. Toss gently and marinate in the refrigerator 4 to 5 hours. Toss again and arrange on lettuce lined plates; garnish with eggs and more chives or another grind of pepper.

Reuben Sandwiches: These are served open faced, which my family favors, or closed.
1 loaf good Deli Jewish Rye Bread
@ ½ lb. sliced corned beef or shredded leftover
8 oz. bottle of Russian dressing
1 lb. Sauerkraut
@ ½ lb. Deli sliced Swiss cheese
Allow 2 slices bread per portion. For open-faced lightly toast the bread, for closed toast only one side.
Spread a toasted side with the Russian dressing, cover with the meat then the kraut and top with the cheese. The amounts you use are optional.  If planning a closed sandwich, fill only half the slices and top with the others; for open cover all. The open sandwiches can be run under the broiler until the cheese melts, the closed topped with the empty slices, toasted sides in, and broiled or grilled turning once, until both sides are golden. Serve hot.

A  Light Lite Dessert:
Lime sherbet
green Crème de Menthe liqueur
Put a scoop of sherbet in each dessert dish. Poke a hole in the center with the handle of a wooden spoon and pour the liqueur in just to fill and slightly overflow. Serve at once.