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AN OLD FAVORITE RETURNS

There’s a prediction circulating in the food industry that the next big topic of interest will be lamb. It’s about to reappear on our menus and in our diets in major ways for strategic reasons I’ll discuss in a bit, but first, some basic facts about the meat as we’ve known it in the U.S.

When I was little, we always had leg of lamb for Easter. Though it was my favorite roast, I really preferred the stew, made with fresh spring potatoes, carrots, peas and onions, that came a few days later, but best of all was the lunch I carried to school Easter Monday; thin slices of lamb between slices of Jewish rye, one spread with mint jelly and the other with a veneer of home-made mayonnaise. (Post 4/20/17). Yum!

By the time I reached high school, our family, sadly, had shrunk, and Easter had become a far more social day. The only meal we had at home was brunch after church. The roast lamb had become a memory. Even that faded, as lamb in general, all but disappeared from the market and, except for an occasional special featuring rack of lamb, from restaurant menus as well.

Lamb was a staple of the American diet, especially in spring, until the West opened and focused on the cattle industry, which put a halt to the expansion of sheep herding. Cattlemen were possessive of the grass lands, because the two animals can’t coexist in the same areas. Cattle yank high grass out by the roots and leave a barren area to re-seed itself. Sheep nibble the grass down to the ground. They leave a field looking like a mowed lawn. It needs only to re-grow; great ecologically, but impossible for cattle.

By the 1920s beef was more plentiful than lamb, and far less expensive. It became the “What’s for dinner?” meat. In the ‘30s and ‘40s that was important. The ‘flower-power’ attitude of the ‘60s did a number on lamb too. ‘Lamb’ was depicted not as the full gown sheep it is in reality, but as an innocent, defenseless baby and considered politically incorrect to eat. In the late ‘70s or early ‘80s lamb made a brief comeback in the form of frozen legs from New Zealand, but they disappeared as well.

Recently, I heard a woman in her 40s admit she’d never tasted lamb, and her friend remarked that it had too strong a flavor for her. Apparently, it’s been absent from the American table long enough to become an acquired taste and from the American kitchen to have a few facts of prepping it forgotten. It does have more flavor than beef but the strong taste comes from leaving too much fat on the cut to cook with the meat. Another reason to remove the fat is that lamb meat is protected by a thin silvery membrane called ‘the fell’ which must be removed or the cut will resist carving. My family also rubbed the lamb with cider vinegar, which mellows the flavor

There are several misconceptions about the terms applied to lamb. First, the ‘lamb’ on the plate, despite its label, is not technically a ‘lamb’; it’s a full grown sheep. ‘Baby lamb’ is an oxymoron, but the only places you’ll find that served are, occasionally in Europe, and in the Middle East. Another misconception is the definition of ‘mutton’. Mutton is not an old, tough sheep on its way to the glue factory. Mutton is a cut, usually a leg that has been allowed to hang long enough to become well ‘aged’. Sometimes it’s rubbed down with wine during the process, but it’s always quite fatty, which accounts for its distinctive flavor. Any of the recipes for lamb can be used to cook mutton.

As to why lamb is about to make a reappearance on our tables, the answer is simple. It’s a more sustainable meat source than beef and with current cattle raising and slaughtering practices, a safer one as well. Most of all, with the current situation, depletion of natural resources, global warming, climate change, loss of grazing land and extreme, disruptive weather patterns, sheep appear to be a solution.

• They take up far less area, are less labor intensive and leave no footprint.
• They mature faster
• They produce meat and hides as do steers but also milk and an annual supply of wool, which has kept sheep farmers in business.
• Sheep don’t naturally produce E.coli
• Sheep can thrive in many terrains, including mountains and marshes, surviving on the native foliage, weeds, reeds, lichen, and moss. It doesn’t affect the texture of the meat but gives it nuances in flavor, much as flowers do honey.
• With beef so high, the price is competitive

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The very best thing about cooking with lamb is the wide range of recipes in different cuisines globally. Open any ethnic cookbook and you’ll find numerous ways to serve it. Lamb is an ancient meat, probably the earliest, domesticated herbivore. It’s a shame the American kitchen has neglected it for so long, because we too, in our comparatively short history, have a tradition in preparing it. An excellent collection of American recipes, many based on Continental classics is to be found in James Beard’s American Cookery. It was written in 1972, but its informative material is timeless.

Because of the sheer number of ways to prepare lamb, and the various ethnic interpretations, I can’t begin to select a mere 5 or 6 to relate here. So, instead I’m going to pass on the methods my Grandmother and Mother taught me for handling cuts of lamb. This will cover the basics, and then you can take off in any direction(s) you choose.

Roast Leg of Lamb or Mutton: 5-8 lb.
Trim the leg well and remove the fell (see above).Rub with cider vinegar, and drizzle a little over the leg after it’s in the roasting pan. Roast in a 325 deg. oven for 25-30 min. per pound, until the internal temperature is 165-170 deg. for rare and 175-180 deg. for medium.

NOTE: French and Jewish chefs make slits about 1 inch long and ½ inch deep, 3-5 inches apart, over the surface of the meat and stuff them with mashed garlic and/or butter and/or rosemary to infuse flavor while cooking.
Traditionally, peeled potatoes and onions are added to the pan 1hr. before it’s done. Another choice would be to add the onion stuffed potatoes I described in my post of 4/6 / 17. Be sure to baste them frequently. If the juice in the pan evaporates, maintain its level by adding beef broth. New potatoes in a variety of colors, with a strip peeled around the middle, are another attractive option.
GRAVY: Allow ¼-1/3 cup per serving. Measure quantity of beef broth needed, allow 1 tsp. mint sauce* and 1 Tbs. flour for each ½ cup fluid. If pan drippings are ½ cup or more, add one extra Tbs. flour. Remove roast to rest and add drippings to the pan. 1 tsp. of rosemary can add flavor too. Whisk the flour in the liquid to dissolve, place pan over medium high heat and continue stirring until sauce thickens, about 3 min. Add salt and pepper if needed, and I like a few drops of Kitchen Bouquet for color. Serve hot with the meat and pass mint jelly.
*MINT SAUCE: Per 1 bunch of mint; make as much as you want. Remove the leaves from a bunch of mint; cover with cider vinegar and add sugar until the taste is sweet-tart. Bring to a boil; simmer for about 5 min. correct taste cool and blend. Pour into bottles and seal tightly. Keeps for months in a cool dark place.

Lamb Stew
The quantities here depend on the amount of lamb leftover, but allow at least 1 ½ -2 cups of solids and ½ cup gravy per serving.
Calculate: 1 new potato, 1 small onion, ½ a large carrot sliced in 4, 1/3 cup tiny spring peas per serving. Quarter the onion and potato, and cook them, with the carrot, in beef broth to cover until tender. Remove from pot and make the correct amount of gravy, using the recipe for the roast. Include any leftover roast gravy. A pinch of rosemary may add flavor. When gravy is ready, return vegetables to pot, with peas and meat. Correct seasonings and heat through. Serve hot as soon as peas are tender.

Crown Roast of Lamb: 4-6 lb. Serves 6-7-Bake at 325 deg. 35-45 min. per lb.

A Crown Roast is double loins, with the chine bones split, attached end-to-end and tied into a circle by a butcher. To serve, cut between the bones into chops, allowing 2 chops per portion. The bones should be ‘Frenched’ or stripped of tissue, and can be decorated for presentation with grapes, grape tomatoes or paper ’panties’. Traditionally this roast doesn’t have gravy but is served with mint jelly or mint sauce. The center is usually filled with a choice of stuffings; the most popular being
1) 2 lb. potatoes, ½ lb. onions, both thinly sliced, 3 Tbs. butter, salt and pepper. Parboil the vegetables and layer alternately, dotting each with butter, pressing down to pack tightly. Begin and end with potatoes. Garnish the center with ¾ cup lightly cooked new peas and decorate the bones as suggested above before serving.
2) Substitute quartered new potatoes, tiny pearl onions and baby carrots for the sliced vegetables, in optional quantities. Parboil about 2 min. Drain well and sprinkle with 1 tsp. rosemary. Proceed as directed above, dotting with 2 Tbs. butter. Garnish with 1 cup peas and suggested decorations.
3) Mashed potatoes, flavored with sautéed, diced onion, salt and pepper

Rack of Lamb: Serves 4-6
2 racks of lamb called a French Rack, because the bone ends are stripped and interlocked-about 12 chops
½ cup mint jelly
2 Tbs. orange or pineapple juice
SAUCE
2 Tbs. red currant jelly
2 Tbs. hot water
1/3 cup mint sauce
For sauce mix all the ingredients together and cook over low until warm through.
Place the racks bone side up in a pan. Mix the mint jelly and juice, using a microwave for a few seconds if necessary to dissolve and brush ¾ of the mixture over the racks. Bake at 375 deg. for 45-65 min. until internal temperature is 140 deg. for rare or150-155 for medium. Baste with the rest of the mint mixture and allow to stand for 10 min. keeping warm. Serve with sauce.

Shepard’s Pie: Serves 4-6
it’s claimed the colonial settlers brought this dish with them. Long regarded as a way to
use leftover roast lamb, its popularity with children has surely also contributed to its
endurance. In modernized form it’s an easy casserole to make, even without leftovers!
1 lb. ground or minced leftover lamb*
2 large onions each in 8 pieces
(1) 10 oz. box frozen peas thawed
¼ cup mint sauce – See recipe above but Lea & Perrins and Hampshire House are good
1 envelope beef bouillon granules
½ envelope chicken bouillon granules
2 cups water – divided
2 Tbs. cornstarch

Kitchen Bouquet – as needed @ ½ tsp.
Cooking spray
1 box instant mashed potatoes – enough for 2 cups
Milk – as per box directions
1 egg
1 Tbs. butter
Pepper to taste
¼ cup grated Parmesan
Dried parsley and paprika to garnish
Spray a skillet with cooking oil, and over medium heat cook the meat until no longer
pink, with the onions until soft. Add 1 ½ cups water, bouillons and mint sauce. Dissolve cornstarch in ½ cup water, mix in and stir until gravy thickens. Remove from heat and add enough Kitchen Bouquet to turn the gravy deep brown. Stir in peas, and pour the mixture into an oiled ovenproof casserole. Make mashed potatoes according to directions, remove from heat and stir in egg. Spread the potatoes over the meat mixture, covering completely. Top with parmesan, paprika and parsley. Bake 350 degrees for 30 min.or until top is golden brown.
* This can also be made using ½ lb. ground lamb and ½ lb. ground beef OR ½ lb. ground beef and ½ lb. ground turkey

Lamb Burgers: Serves 4
1-1 ½ lb. ground lamb –I like the larger amount for 4. I lb. Meat handles 3 servings well
½ cup mint sauce (see above)
2 large onions – thinly sliced
1 Tbs. oil
Home-made mayonnaise(see above)
4 hamburger, or other favorite rolls –split and toasted
Saute the onions in the oil until soft and golden, keep warm; split and toast the rolls.
Mix the meat with the egg and form into 4 patties which will comfortably fit the rolls. Place the patties on an aluminum covered sheet; pour 1 Tbs. mint sauce on each. Turn patties and repeat with the other side. Bake in a 350 deg. preheated oven until cooked through, about 15-20 min.
Assembly: Optionally spread one side of the rolls with mayonnaise. Place a patty on each roll; top with onions and serve warm.
NOTE: The meat can be served as a regular dinner entrée, with sides. For this presentation, don’t flatten the patties.

SIMPLE RECIPES THAT MAKE SPRING PRODUCE SHINE

As a foodie, living in Italy, I loved watching the delight with which Italians greeted fresh produce every season. The arrival was treated as a news item and considered a topic for discussion from boardroom to bus stop. I remember a bleak March day when I was caught in a sudden downpour and hailed a cab. The driver sympathized with my sodden state, but immediately remarked that the rain was good for the crops and began to rave about the green beans his wife grew on the balcony railing of their city apartment.

Then there was a sunny day in late April; I had been invited for luncheon and the races, but when I opened my door, there were my friends, arms full of grocery bags, wearing huge grins exclaiming; ”The Peas are in!” as if it were a holiday greeting. Enroute to my apartment, they passed a greengrocer’s and a sign in the window changed the day. They bought the ingredients for a traditional meal, Peas and Ham (recipe below) at nearby stores. We set to work shelling, prepping and cooking; then spent hours savoring the meal and the company, just like a holiday feast. After all, the peas were in, weren’t they?

The point is you don’t have to be a farmer, chef or gourmet to appreciate seasonal produce, especially in spring. It’s young and hasn’t had time to become damaged so it doesn’t require much prepping. It’s crisp tender and doesn’t need long cooking, if any, and the taste is fresh and bright, with a subtle appeal to our taste buds after the full flavors of winter, even for children. What’s not to like?

The recipes below illustrate the appeal of spring produce. They are simple, yet different enough to be elegant, showcasing, not exotic items, but everyday ones. Items we may eat all year, transported or frozen, but prepared in these ways, they take on a new life. Using fresh produce makes a world of difference. Give it a try!

Peas with Ham: (Serves 4)
2 lb. peas—the tiny springs ones, fresh are best
2 cups ham in ½ inch cubes OR 8 oz. cubed, sliced Deli ham
4 cloves garlic
2 Tbs. oil
½ Tbs. butter
Water
Salt and pepper
Grated or shaved Parmesan for garnish.

Heat the oil in a skillet large and deep enough to hold all the ingredients. Saute the garlic cloves until brown but not burnt and remove. Turn the ham over in the pan to coat and warm a bit, then add the peas and stir to coat, adding a bit of water to prevent sticking to the pan. Cover and cook for 5-8 min. until the peas are just tender. Serve at once with cheese garnish. Be sure there’s some good, crusty bread on the side.

Asparagus with Ham Bechamel Serves 4
1 lb. fresh asparagus spears- if using slender young ones allow about 12 per portion-gage according to size of stalks
1 lb. deli sliced ham – allow 4 slices per portion.
2 cups milk
4 Tbs. butter
4 Tbs. flour
salt and pepper
½ cup shredded sharp cheese
Paprika and parsley for garnish
Break off the woody part of the stems and put the spears in a microwave proof dish in one layer, if possible, no more than two, or cook in batches. Microwave on high 3 to 9 min. depending on the thickness of the stems. If saucing, shock spears with cold water.
Make a Bechamel or white sauce by melting the butter until it foams, remove from heat, stir in flour to make a smooth paste and quickly add milk. Stir over medium heat until sauce is silky and thick. Do not allow to boil. Season.
Separate the asparagus into 16 equal portions. Wrap each in a slice of ham. Place seam side down in an oven proof dish. Cover with the sauce, sprinkle with cheese and garnish with paprika and parsley. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. For 15 to 20 min. until cheese melts and sauce bubbles.
NOTE: To marinate asparagus put drained, warm spears on a serving plate, pour marinade over and allow to infuse as the asparagus cools, then refrigerate or serve.
For Marinating: Vinaigrette of choice is best

French Onion Tart: Serves 4-6
Crust
1 cup flour
½ tsp. salt
¼ cup butter in small pieces
1 egg
2 Tbs. cold water
Filling
6 medium onions cut into thin rings – or equivalent amount of spring onions
3 Tbs. butter
3egg yolks
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2/3 cup heavy cream
Dash nutmeg
Blend the flour, butter and salt in a bowl. Stir in egg and water with a fork until well mixed and form
pastry into a ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill 1 hr. Rollout and place in an 8 inch pie tin or flan pan.
Sautee onions in butter until well coated and beginning to soften. Cover and cook over medium-low for 30 min. stirring occasionally. Add salt pepper and nutmeg. Whisk eggs and cream and add to onions, then pour mixture into the pie shell. Bake at 400 deg. 30 min. Serve hot.

Italian Onion Tart: Serves 4-6
Crust
(1) 8 inch partially cooked pie shell, or(1) 10 inch pizza round on a flat baking sheet
Filling
2 lb. diced onions- spring ones preferably
4 Tbs. olive oil
Pinch of ground cloves
2 cloves garlic
Salt and pepper
Herb bouquet=1/2 bay leaf, ¼ tsp. thyme, 5 parsley sprigs- tied in a piece of cloth*
8 anchovy fillets
16 black, pitted, oil cured Greek olives- halved
1 Tbs. olive oil
Cook the onions slowly in the oil with the garlic, herbs and salt until tender, about 45 min. Remove the garlic and herbs and add the pepper and cloves. Test taste and adjust. Arrange cooked onions in pie shell or on pizza round. Place the anchovies in a sunburst pattern on top and sprinkle the olives decoratively between. Drizzle with oil. Bake in upper 1/3 of a preheated 400 deg. oven for 12-15 min. until bubbly. Serve at once.

Hot Boiled Dressing
This dressing is an old, favorite family recipe. It’s wonderful cold in place of mayonnaise for sandwiches and salads like potato, chicken, tuna and salmon. Hot it gives a new dimension to spinach and, if you can get them, dandelions. Young spring spinach is best but the “baby” found pre-packed in bags all year is acceptable. Just make sure all greens are well washed and the hard part of the stems is snapped off. Either salad can be garnished with crumbled bacon. Used cold with the addition of quartered hard boiled eggs it can make a meal of the spinach version.
Recipe: Makes about 2 cups
3 Tbs. sugar
½ tsp. dry mustard
1/8 tsp. paprika
1 Tbs. flour
1 tsp. salt
1 Tbs. butter
½ cup cider vinegar
½ cup water
2 eggs – well beaten
Using the top of a Bain Marie or double boiler, whisk together the first 5 ingredients. Whisk in the next 3 and place top pot over bottom in which the required amount of water is boiling. Cook, constantly stirring, until smooth and butter is melted. Pour a little into the beaten eggs, stirring to prevent curdling, pour the rest of the hot liquid into the eggs. Then return the mixture to the top of the double boiler and cook constantly stirring until mixture is thick and smooth.
Serve hot over chosen cleaned greens. Do not use over lettuces. All greens will wilt with the heat and lettuces don’t stand up well.
NOTE: Chill leftover and use as mayonnaise or a salad dressing.

Spring Spinach Salad: Serves 6-8—depending on size of bag OR
7-12 oz. fresh, spring spinach
4-6 red radishes= 1 per serving
¼ cup toasted, chopped walnuts
4-5 fresh strawberries per serving – halved if large
½ cup crumbled feta cheese—optional for garnish
Vinaigrette dressing of choice—Raspberry suggested
Wash greens snap off hard stems, wash and hull berries, wash and thinly slice radishes, discarding greens. Chill all ingredients, in water if necessary. Drain and divide the spinach among plates, scatter radish slices, then berries, nuts and cheese over. Drizzle with dressing

EGGS AND SPRING-THE PERFECT PAIR

This article has made me think of the how Easter celebrations have changed and become subdued. Gone are the parades, the new outfits, fancy hats and corsages but the egg hunt has survived and thrived, graduating from the backyard to an event sponsored by towns and organizations. In fact, nowadays the egg not only symbolizes the holidays but, crossing cultures, is an icon of spring. The bright yellow and white colors suit the season, and the wide variety of ways they can be prepared reflects all the options of spring. It’s the perfect time to enjoy them.

Of course, the days of using real eggs in hunts or as decorations has long passed; the ones for fun and decorating are mostly plastic, wood and ceramic. Real eggs are potentially messy, and can be truly dangerous when eaten if improperly stored. Children used to love coloring them, but I don’t recall seeing displays of coloring kits in markets recently, and most families I know have only dyed them once period. So I guess that tradition has fallen too.

Although this eliminates the old problem of what to do with all the hard boiled eggs, I still like to have a few on hand over the holidays, to serve deviled or in a dip as a snack or appetizer. It seems fittingly seasonal. It’s also seasonal to take advantage of the fact that eggs are usually on sale during the spring and are perfect for the lighter meals we begin to crave as the weather warms.

People complain that the price of eggs has risen steeply in the past few years, but that’s all the more reason to enjoy them now. Actually, the recommended amount is 2 eggs per adult serving, so even at $3.00 per dozen, one serving is $0.50—still a bargain, but even more so at a sale price.

So think eggs and consider the recipes below. I’ve included a few for hard-boiled eggs and the rest are for fresh egg dishes, either way, appropriate for any meal of the day.

HARD BOILED EGGS

Pickled Eggs
I do have to admit, my favorite treatment for hard-boiled eggs is the one I described 2 weeks ago in the posting on Cabbage and Beets, marinating them in pickled beet juice. It turns them a lovely color, gives them an interesting taste, allowing them optionally, to be served alone, without other seasonings and preserves them for several weeks, eliminating the need to use them or lose them.

Simply place cooled hard-boiled eggs in a lidded container, covered with the juice of pickled red beets. Turn occasionally to keep the color even and they keep for 2 or so weeks.

To Pickle Beets: This can be made using freshly cooked beets or canned
Place cooked, peeled and//or sliced beets in a pot, covered in their juice. Add cider vinegar slowly to taste. Add sugar to taste. (Optionally other flavorings are added according to ethnic recipes, also to taste, cloves, caraway, peppercorns, allspice and sliced onions.)
Bring to a simmer, reduce heat and cook until the sugar dissolves and beets are heated through. Remove and cool. Store covered in a cold place and marinate for at least 36 hrs. These will keep for weeks properly stored. Serve well drained
To Pickle Eggs: After the beets are eaten the juice is a wonderful marinade to devil hard-boiled eggs. Put the eggs in a jar, covered with the juice and allow to pickle for at least 5 days. At full flavor, they should be burgandy color. They are eaten whole, deviled and/or chopped into a salad. Don’t worry if they feel a bit tough, that’s to be expected.

Egg Dip: Yield about 2/3 cup—increase recipe to yield desired amount
2 hard-boiled eggs—chopped fine
1 Tbs. mayonnaise
½ tsp. Dijon mustard
Pinch cayenne pepper- optional
Mix all ingredients gently and chill. The dip may seem dry at first, but the egg yolks dissolve in the mayonnaise and it becomes more fluid with time. The consistency can be adjusted before serving, Best made one day in advance. Garnish with parsley or chives to serve.

Vegetable and Egg Dinner Salad – Serves 4
4 hard-boiled eggs cut in 8ths
1 lb. spring vegetables cooked to crisp tender—asparagus, green beans for example*
4 cups lettuce leaves—red or green leaf, Romaine, Bibb or spinach for example
2-3 Tbs. mixed chopped spring herbs – -Parsley, lemon thyme, tarragon, cilantro for example
Salt and Pepper
½ -3/4 cup fresh vinaigrette dressing.
1/3 cup toasted nuts for garnish-optional
¼ cup crumbled feta cheese
Artesian bread for serving
Line plates with the lettuce and layer with the vegetables , then the eggs. Scatter the herbs over them and then pour over the dressing, finally add the cheese and nuts as garnish. For dressing suggestions please see the site Archives for 7/31/15 and 8/21/15.
*Thinly sliced radishes and onions add to the flavor and texture

Eggs a la King: Serves 4 – A vegetarian option as an entrée
8 hard-boiled eggs-halved lengthwise -at room temperature*
2 cups milk
4 Tbs. butter
4Tbs. Flour
¼ tsp. curry powder
1 jarred red pepper in julienne
4 oz. can of sliced mushrooms -drained
12 ripe olives-halved lengthwise
Salt and pepper to taste
Chopped or dried parsley for garnish
4 English muffins split and toasted OR 4 slices of toast (artesian bread preferred)
Make a white sauce by bringing the butter to a simmer, then remove the pan from the heat and add the flour stirring to make a paste. Add the milk all at once, return the pan to a medium heat and stir constantly until sauce is smooth and thick. Add olives, red pepper, mushrooms and seasonings. Stir to incorporate and heat through. Divide the bread among 4 plates; place 4 egg halves on each, cover equally with the hot sauce, garnish with parsley and serve at once.
* 2 cups chicken pieces can be substituted for the eggs. Stir in and heat through before serving
NOTE: To up the taste, add 1 envelope chicken bouillon granules to the white sauce

FRESH EGGS
Frittata; Serves 2
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4 large eggs
1 cup vegetables*
2 Tbs. oil
1/8 tsp. baking soda
1/3 cup milk or water, or milk + water to equal this amount
¼ tsp. curry powder
¼ tsp. paprika
Ground pepper to taste
Optional toppings- for example ¼ cup grated cheese or 1 cup tomato sauce.
Cut vegetables to ½ inch size or thin slice *
In a bowl, lightly beat the eggs, with all other ingredients except the oil and the vegetables. Heat the oil in an 8-9 inch skillet over medium. Turn on the broiler. Sauté the vegetables, or if cooked, turn them over in the oil to coat and warm. Reduce the burner heat to medium-low and pour in the eggs. Cook, gently pulling the eggs away from the sides of the pan, and tilting it to allow the uncooked portion to run into the spaces, until the eggs are fairly set, but still quiver in the center. Put the pan under the broiler, until the top begins to tan and all the eggs are cooked. Add the cheese, if using, before broiling and the sauce as serving. Be careful not to put the handle of the skillet in the oven, unless it is metal. Slide the frittata onto a plate to serve.

* If not using leftovers, substitute an equal amount of cooked fresh or frozen vegetables. Broccoli and green beans can be parboiled. Others, such as a zucchini and onion combination don’t needpre-cooking.
* ½ cup diced meat can replace ½ cup of the vegetables
NOTE: Recipe can be doubled or tripled.

Eggs Florentine: Serves 4 or 2 for a main meal
(1) 10 oz. box frozen chopped spinach- or (2) 10 oz. boxes for an 8 inch pie plate
4 eggs
1 tsp. salt OR 1 envelope bouillon powder-beef or chicken
Pinch nutmeg
Grated Parmesan cheese
Thaw and drain the spinach in a sieve until it is moist but not wet. Mix in the bouillon or salt and nutmeg then divide one box between 4 greased custard cups or ramekins or two boxes in a greased 8 inch pie plate. Top custard cups with a raw egg or make 4 indentations the top of the spinach and break an egg into each; sprinkle with cheese. Place containers in a pan with ½ inch water and bake at 350 deg. 15 min. or until eggs are set.
Serve with sliced meat, bread or other vegetables such as sliced tomatoes.

Eggs Parmesan: Serves 4—Custard cups are needed for this
4 slices Deli ham—optional
8 large eggs
8 Tbs. heavy cream, half-and-half, or evaporated milk
4 Tbs. Grated Parmesan cheese
Line each custard cup with a slice of ham. Break 2 eggs into each cup. Cover with 2 Tbs. milk or cream. Top each with 1 Tbs. cheese. Place cups on a cookie sheet and bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven until set about 12-15 min. Serve hot with rolls or toast and/or a salad

Classic Quiche Lorraine: Serves 4
Quiche is a dish that allows a lot of room for variety, yet is quite simple to prepare. If one of these won’t be enough for your family, make two and use different ingredients. Think of it as if you were making pizzas with different toppings.-but here it’s bottoms!
(1) 9 inch deep dish pie shell-store bought is fine—baked

1 Tbs. butter
4 oz. sliced mushrooms—(1/2) 4 oz. can will do –optional
1 small onion diced
4 eggs
1 cup light cream or whole milk
½ tsp. dried mustard OR prepared Dijon mustard
1 cup shredded cheese -Swiss usually preferred
Salt and pepper.
8-10 slices bacon cooked and crumbled OR ¼ lb. sliced Deli smoked turkey
Dash of ground nutmeg
Paprika and dried parsley
Spray skillet with cooking spray and cook bacon until crisp or frizzle smoked turkey and dice. Melt butter in skillet add mushrooms and onion and cook until they render their juice.-about 3 min. Line a 9 inch pie plate with the crust. Put mushrooms, onion and bacon in the bottom of the pie shell and cover with the cheese. Then pour over the eggs beaten until frothy with the milk, mustard and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with the nutmeg, garnish with the paprika and parsley and bake in a preheated 400 degree oven for 15 min .Reduce heat to 325 degrees and bake for 30 min. more. Allow to stand 5 min. before cutting.
NOTE: Quiche can be made with a large variety of ingredients. Actually, the above recipe works with chicken, ham, sausage and most firm fish, shellfish and mollusks in equal quantities, in place of the bacon.

Easy Cheese Souffle: Serves 4- This is a truly never-fail recipe*
3 eggs separated
2 Tbs. butter
3 Tbs. flour
½ cup evaporated milk
½ cup grated cheddar cheese
½ tsp. salt
Beat the egg yolks until pale yellow. Make the cream sauce as described above in Eggs a la King by melting the butter, adding the flour to make a paste and adding the milk, stirring constantly to make a smooth sauce. Add the cheese, yolks and salt. Cool slightly. With clean beaters and bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff. Fold whites into yolk mixture. Pour into an ungreased 1 quart soufflé dish. Bake in a 350 deg. oven for 30 min.
* Anyone who’s ever tried to make a soufflé will see this recipe is simplified, but it does work and is great practice for more complex and grand recipes.

SPRING CARBS FOR HOLIDAY DINNERS

With the first signs of spring, our spirits perk up. Our moods, like the days, are sunnier and we opt for lighter and brighter choices in everything from clothes to food. Because of this attitude, I put together the book SPRING ROASTS FOR EASTER AND PASSOVER. The hardy stars of winter holiday feasts are out of place now. Spring holiday dinners need a more delicate approach. Instead of a large stuffed turkey, for example, smaller birds, even multiples are more suitable. The same is true of roasts; whole loins are often carved into crowns or in racks for a more ‘open’ presentation.

The sides for spring holiday dinners reflect the new outlook too. Fresh seasonal produce is a must and if the local crops aren’t in yet, transported items, or frozen ones, are available in markets. The same holds true for the carbohydrate part of the menus. Dense bread stuffings and creamy potato dishes are replaced by simply prepared new potatoes, light herbed pastas and more frequently, as they gain popularity, grain presentations.

If you’re looking for suggestions for serving spring produce, there are several articles in the site Archives. Just click on the Table of Contents button on the Home Page header. In addition, there are several articles still featured on the panorama at the top of the Home Page. Just click on any of those to see the recipes. It’s the carbohydrate portion of the meal that I want to talk about this week.

The grain and pasta recipes below are really more outlines than written in stone. The add-ins and flavorings can be changed to better compliment the rest of the menu, even so far as substituting fruits for vegetables. The grains can be altered to fit your preference, so long as you calculate the cooking times to avoid overdoing the additions. Brown rice is preferable to white due to its higher fiber and protein content but be aware of the difference in types of rice. The choice can result in big changes in the appearance and texture of the finished dish.
1. Long grain rice cooks up fluffy and separates easily
2. Medium grain rice is more moist and tender, but becomes stickier the longer it cools
3. Short grain rice is almost round. Moist and tender, it has a high starch content and becomes very
sticky when cooked.

The pasta choices should be small sizes, orzo or couscous. In fact, packaged couscous is an excellent time saver. Fast cooking, it comes flavored and is open to any amount of add-ins, which can be stirred into the pot after cooking and before fluffing. Rice and pasta are inter-changeable in most recipes but be sure of the cooking times of all the ingredients.

The grain, potato and stuffing recipes are more set, but they too are open to altering. It’s simply a matter of following a preparation formula while changing the ingredients to better compliment the entrée and of course, staying with appropriate and/or seasonal items.

Rice, Spinach and Peas with Almonds: Serves 4**
1 cup long grain rice
3 cups water
1 envelope beef or chicken bouillon granules
1 small bunch spinach
4 Tbs. butter OR 2 Tbs. butter and 2 Tbs. oil
2 cloves garlic minced
2/3 cup fresh or frozen peas thawed
Salt and pepper
¼ cup toasted sliced almonds
Cook rice in water with bouillon until tender, about 14 min.; rinse in cold water and drain well. Remove tough stems from spinach and cut leaves in 1 inch strips. Heat 1 Tbs. butter and 1Tbs. oil, if using, or 2 Tbs. butter, in a skillet over medium low heat. Add spinach and garlic and sauté until spinach wilts about 1 min. Add peas, rice and seasonings and toss. Add remaining butter and oil, cover and allow butter to melt, about 5 min. Toss again gently with almonds and serve.
NOTE: This can be made a few days ahead and kept chilled, covered, without the almonds. Reheat in the microwave and toss with the nuts before serving.

Scented Rice: Serves 4
1 cup long grain rice
2 cups broth-chicken or beef
1 Tbs. butter
¾ tsp. flavoring spice or herb*
¼ tsp. other herbs or spices*
1 large onion diced—preferably red
1 bell pepper diced
½ cup peas- thawed if frozen
1 Tbs. oil
Salt to taste
Saute the rice in the butter until it’s shiny and a bit golden. Add the flavorings and/or spices with the broth, bring to a broil, reduce heat, cover and simmer until rice is cooked and liquid is absorbed, about 20 min. Saute the onion, peas and peppers in the oil, then add to the cooked rice. Adjust seasonings. Serve hot, but can be made ahead and stored covered in the refrigerator for several days and reheated in the microwave.
*This rice dish can be altered to fit any ethnic menu by altering the spices, herbs and flavoring in quoted amounts or to taste. For example: Mexican=3/4 tsp. cumin + ¼ tsp. EACH oregano and chili powder; French=substitute powdered rosemary for the cumin and marjoram and thyme for the oregano and chili powder; Italian –use basil, oregano and garlic. A simpler, but tasty combination is to forget all the herbs etc. and add 1-2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice and 2 Tbs. fresh chopped parsley to the cooked rice.

Taboule: Serves 4 — This is a traditional dish and though the basic preparation is the same, the optional choice of add-ins can change its presentation. I’ve had it with only tomatoes and lemon juice, although mint is usually present as well. I marked the optional add-ins in this recipe (*) but feel free to add any others you like.
½ cup bugler
1 medium tomato –diced
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbs. olive oil
1/8 tsp. dried oregano
½ cup chopped fresh mint
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
½ cucumber-diced*
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½ green bell pepper –diced*
¾ cup chopped fresh parsley*
¼ cup fennel- diced*
Cover the bugler with water and soak for 45 min. Drain well and squeeze in a towel to be sure it’s dry. Drain the tomato, and cucumber, if using, and pat dry if needed. Gently toss the bugler with the chosen vegetables and herbs and store covered in the refrigerator until ready to use. Mix lemon juice, oil, oregano, salt and pepper in a small jar and store chilled. When ready to serve, gently toss bugler, vegetables and herbs with dressing. Can be served cold or at room temperature.

Bugler with Mushrooms: Serves 4 – This is excellent with all roasts
1 cup beef broth
1 cup bugler
3 Tbs. butter
1 Tbs. oil
12 button mushrooms- caps and stems sliced
1 large shallot-diced
1 Tbs. thyme-fresh minced or 2 tsp. dried
Salt and pepper
Combine bugler and broth in a bowl and soak about 45 min. until tender then drain in a sieve to lose excess broth. Saute mushrooms in oil and 1 Tbs. butter until starting to brown, about 8 min. add the rest of the butter and the shallot and sauté 5 min. more. Add bugler and thyme, seasonings and heat through. Serve at once or cover and freeze. To reheat thaw and use the microwave.
NOTE: With the addition of 1/3 cup thinly sliced celery sautéed in 2 Tbs. butter and 2 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley, this can be used as a stuffing.

NOTE: Any of 4 recipes above can be made with cooked orzo or couscous following the same directions for preparation, storing and reheating.

New Potatoes and Asparagus: Serves 4**
6 new potatoes—red or other colors preferred over brown
2 lb. asparagus—fresh preferred
1 roasted red bell pepper slivered-jarred is O.K.
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
½ cup olive oil
2 Tbs. Dijon mustard
1 small shallot in fine dice
4 Tbs. chopped chives
Salt and pepper
Boil potatoes until tender, drain cool and quarter. Cook the asparagus in 1/2 cup water in the microwave until crisp tender about 4-8 min. depending on thickness, drain and cut in 1 ½ inch pieces. Toss potatoes, asparagus and pepper together. Whisk mustard, oil, lemon juice and shallot in a small bowl and pour over the vegetables; toss gently. Serve at room temperature garnished with chives.
Note: Can be kept for a few days covered in the fridge. Lightly microwave to warm for serving.

Stuffed Potatoes: Serves 4–If the new potatoes aren’t in regular ones can be used. I like to peel brown skins, but redskins or other colors are decorative if left on.
4 potatoes
1 medium onion
4 slivers of butter—depending on roast and size of potatoes
Wash and prepare potatoes if peeling. Cut a sliver off the bottom so they stand up. Using an apple corer or vegetable peeler, scoop out the center of the potatoes, leaving at least ½ inch margin. Grate the onion (I use a mini-chopper) and stuff the potatoes making sure they are packed solid. If the roast is quick cooking and the potatoes are large, bake the potatoes, topping each with a sliver of butter, in a pre-heated 375 deg. oven until beginning to brown but be sure they have at least 30 min. in the pan with the roast being basted to finish. Otherwise, simply bake the potatoes with the roast.

Raisin and Fruit Bread Stuffing: This is estimated for a 5-6 lb. bird and can be used with chicken or duck.
5-6 slices raisin bread-toasted and torn in ½ >1 inch pieces
½ small onion –diced
1 smaller inside rib of celery- stalk thinly sliced and leaves chopped
1 cooking apple, cored, peeled and sliced-slices cut in half
1 orange
1 tsp. sage
Salt and pepper
1 egg
milk
Put the bread, apple, onion and celery in a bowl with the seasonings. Cut the orange in half and add the meat from one half to the bowl and the juice from the other half. Mix in the egg and enough milk to keep the stuffing easy to toss but not wet or sticky. Fill bird, both neck and body cavities if there is enough stuffing. Any extra can be cooked covered in a dish, for half the time the bird roasts. Follow regular cooking directions, according to the size of the bird.
** Recipes adapted from ones in the U.S.P.C.A. files