TURKEY A to Z
Turkey trauma is quite real. I had a neighbor who happily cooked a standing rib roast every Christmas but dealing with the Thanksgiving turkey always terrified her. Perhaps it’s the fact that a turkey is probably the largest and heaviest item we cook, but it’s really no different than roasting a chicken, or any other bird. It just takes longer.
Choosing a turkey is the same as it is with other birds too. When looking at two or more of equal weight, pick the plumpest. It will be the meatiest because the bones are identical weight.
There used to be bins of turkeys in stores all year. Now they only appear before Thanksgiving, offering different types of turkeys. There’s the pre-basted, the double-breasted domestic, and, if the store is connected a southern chain, the Texas turkey. Prized by Texans, these birds are close to wild turkeys. They’re leaner, with longer necks, coarser grained, darker hued meat, less of it white, with a stronger, slightly ‘gamey’ flavor. I prefer the double-breasted domestic birds and I like a Tom, or male. Toms are less fatty than hens, or females and larger, usually over 18 lb. I go for 22-25 lb. because it’s no more effort and I like having cooked turkey meat in the freezer for easy meals. There’s a whole post on these recipes coming up on Thanksgiving Day, Nov.25, 2023.
I used to buy a more expensive fresh turkey for Christmas, which has to be prepped and cooked when bought. Then, one year a Dec. 24th snowstorm nearly ruined my holiday. I decided fresh really weren’t superior enough to be worth the worry and have stuck to frozen ever since. The prepping is the same, only the thawing is different.
I start thawing my bird in the cold garage 24 hr. before I want to start prepping. If I’m in a hurry, I may substitute 8-12 hr. in the house. As soon as I can remove the wrapper and leg braces, I immerse it in cool water until I can remove the giblet bag and neck. Then I drain it remove the oil gland at the base of the spine, clean the cavity of any organic bits, coat it with salt and return the bird to a cool water bath for about 2 hours. I rinse it well and let it sit in fresh cool water until I’m ready to stuff and cook it. I’ve never had a problem with this process, but of course, timing varies with weight.
Knowing about thawing is important because in the past 15 yrs., turkeys in December are not as available and far more expensive, costing as much as three times more, than at Thanksgiving. I learned this the hard way, by ordering an identical bird to the one I bought in November, for pick-up in December. The first cost under $20.00 and the second over $45.00. Now, I buy two birds at Thanksgiving and save one for Christmas. Actually, with food prices today, and the savings of prepping for any event ahead, or simply taking advantage of sales, a freezer, even a little one, is a sound investment.
As you’ve gathered, my approach to turkeys is bigger is better because they s-t-r-e-a-c-h. I love leftovers, they make wonderful impromptu meals and it’s relaxing to know you have the basis of dinner on hand. A larger bird can give you that with only a bit more cooking time and no extra effort. Turkey meat freezes well and given the seasonal prices now, getting a larger one is an economy. So do stop and think before you cut back on size of the bird for holiday dinners this difficult year.
When I’m ready to stuff and cook a turkey, I remove the water and sit it on end for about 0 min. to drain the excess water. It’s very important the turkey be put into a preheated oven as soon as it’s stuffed and that you follow cooking instructions for times and temperatures, especially noting the differences between stuffed and unstuffed birds. I explain each of these steps in detail in my post for Nov. 15, 2012.
To simplify things, here is a roasting chart from famous food writer and teacher David Joachim’s book, 5,000 Food Tips and Tricks. The cooking times are a bit longer than other charts and I truly believe safer. The oven temperature is 325 deg. and the temperatures required for doneness are 180 deg. for the breast and 165 deg. for the stuffing.
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Weight Fridge defrosting Cold water defrost Roasting unstuffed Roasting stuffed
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5-7lb. 16-22 hr. 3-5 hr. 1 ½ -2 hr. 2-2 ½ hr.
7-9 lb. 18-24 hr. 4-6 hr. 2-2 ½ hr. 2 ½ -3 hr.
9-11 lb. 24-36 hr. 8-10 hr. 3-3 ½ hr. 4-4 ½ hr.
12-15 lb. 36-48 hr. 10-14 hr. 3 ½ -4 hr. 4 ½ -5 hr.
16-20 lb. 48-64 hr. 16-20 hr. 4-6 hr. 5 ½ -7 hr.
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Stuffings, both for cooking in bird and separately, are discussed in my posts for Nov.19, 2012 Nov. 3, 2016 and more recently updated, Nov. 19, 2020. The first post gives the fundamentals of stuffing making and the basic recipe for bread stuffing which can be modified in so many ways. The more recent post explores 10 different stuffing recipes, among them Wild Rice, Squash, Mushroom and Cranberry, with an eye to trying something new this year to brighten the holidays. The most important things to remember in dealing with stuffing is that always stuff the bird just before placing in the oven and all stuffing, regardless of ingredients, must register 165 deg. to be considered cooked through and ready to be served. Finally, be sure to remove stuffing as soon after dinner and store separately. For freezing tips, see the storing section below.
Gravy is another important accompaniment to a roast, especially turkey. It’s important to remember that gravy is an accessory not a star, but it’s a make or breaker. Unless it complements the entrée, is compatible with the other dishes and has a pleasing texture, it can ruin the meal. The first two requirements aren’t much concern, especially if the gravy base is the juice rendered by the meat. The last can be more difficult. For example a little fat from the roast can give it a silky texture, just as a pat of butter smooths a sauce, but too much can cause it to break, or separate, making it appear, and taste, greasy. Also, improper introduction or cooking of the thickening agent can make gravy lumpy and unappetizing.
Both problems can be easily solved. A large amount of excess fat can be removed by slightly chilling the rendered juice and spooning it off, a light film by gently drifting strips of paper towel across the top of the reserved juice, 4-5 strips usually suffice. To avoid lumpy gravy, dissolve the thickener in cold liquid before adding it to the saucepan and whish constantly until desired density is reached.
I discuss these problems, specifically different ways of thickening and how to avoid errors, in my post of Nov. 20,2014 and in depth generally for both sauces and gravies, with many recipes and variations in my book Savvy Sauces and Gravies available at dinnerwithjoy.com/books products/ and Amazon. It’s also part of my book Food Facts for Millennials available at the above sites and summarized in my post of June 7, 2018. I deal with the subject in detail in next week’s post Nov. 16, 2023, and include advice on using pan sauces for leftovers.
Carving a turkey is not difficult. There are 2 main methods, one traditional and the other more recent, either way the first move is to remove the wing and leg, with thigh, by slicing through the joints, on one side to give clear access to the breast. Then either slice the meat off the breast parallel the breast bone, in clean strokes or make one slice through the lobe along the breastbone and another along the bottom perpendicular to the backbone, removing the entire lobe, which can then be sliced crosswise. The thigh meat can be sliced separately. Repeat on the other side.
I do this in the roasting pan, but you may need to move the bird to a board for the second method of carving. For this it’s easier to mound at least the first serving of stuffing on the serving platter before you start to carve.
Stripping the carcass sounds more labor intensive than it is. (See post for Nov. 28, 2019) Set out a plate, size dependent on the amount of meat left on the carcass, and cut, or pull the meat off the bones, putting it on the plate. Toss the bones pieces of cart ledge, joints, and any pieces of skin in a large pot as you go. When finished stripping, cover the pot contents with water, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer about 2 hours. This will make soup or stew base. When it is finished, strain and store in plastic containers with lids and freeze. Do not skim it. The fat will form a hard layer on top which keeps the broth fresh and can easily be scraped off before thawing for use.
Tip for freezing stuffing. Store stuffing in plastic containers with lids and cover with a few tablespoons of the broth. This prevents the stuffing from drying out and locks in flavor and texture.
To freeze the meat, I divide it into piles, small, for soups and chilies, medium, for stews and casseroles, and large, for pan sautés or sauced dishes. I use plastic wrap to seal it into size-labeled 2-portion packages, and freeze the packages in bags. Depending on the turkey and the number of guests I served, I usually count on having the basis for 10-15, 2-serving meals on tap. It’s a real stress saver in the weeks ahead and a great reward for having cooked a big bird.
I do love leftovers and I’ve written many posts focused on turkey recipes over the years, each discussing a different aspect of transforming leftovers into delicious, fresh appearing meals. There’s no excuse for re-runs or boredom, or reason not to enjoy the leftovers for months. As I said turkey freezes very well.
For those who want a preview of leftover recipes before buying their turkey and can’t wait for the Nov. 23 post, which will include specific uses for different sized pieces of meat, here’s a list of links to recipes like Lasagna, Stuffed Portabellas, Pizzas, Turkey with Mushrooms in Creamy Wine Sauce, Cranberry Salad with Nuts and Feta, Ravioli with Lime-Balsamic Vinaigrette……….
LINKS
Dec. 21, 2011 Nov. 15, 2012 Nov. 19, 2012 Nov.29, 2012 Dec. 2, 2013 Nov. 20, 2014 Nov.27, 2014 Nov. 18, 2015 Nov. 3, 2016 Nov.24, 2016 Nov.23, 2017
