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AFFORDABLE CANPES 23

One of the most anticipated aspects of a holiday season, especially the winter one, are the parties, from large, elegant balls to small, casual, often impromptu get-togethers. We enjoy the chance to relax with current friends and to catch-up with those less frequently seen. It would be a real loss to allow rising food prices to curtail these occasions.

So in the interest of preserving holiday entertaining, I’m offering a few recipes, which are every bit as delicious and appealing as expensive, catered or commercially prepared hors d’ouvres.  With planning, and little or no extra time and effort, these canapes can be tailored to any party budget.

However, before getting into the canape and related recipes, I want to suggest an alternative type of party which takes a bit more time and space, but does offer an economic saving, especially on the bar bill, if adhering to the drinks recommended-The Dessert Party. This party is described in detail with recipes for food and drink in my post at https://www.dinnerwithjoy.com/give-a-dessert-party/. There is also a Cheese and Cake Party written up in the post for Dec.5, 2019.

Another specifically focused party worthy of consideration is a Cheese Party, where strategically paced cheese boards offer the only canapés. Cheese can be very expensive, but it’s a huge field. Working with experts in the stores, it’s possible to design boards to fit nearly any budget and on the up-side, it involves minimal labor. I discuss this party in my post Say Cheese https://www.dinnerwithjoy.com/say-cheese/

An additional post you may find helpful is Leftovers Love to Party—https://www.dinnerwithjoy.com/holiday-leftovers-turn-into-party-canapes/ This post discusses how many leftovers from a dinner party can be reincarnated as canapes. Also check out Fantastic Impromptu Party Food https://www.dinnerwithjoy.com/fantastic-impromptu-party-food/

Now onto the subject of the week…….

RECIPES

Probably the single most useful ingredient for anyone planning a party featuring finger-food is cream cheese. It’s the basis of most hors d’ouvres dips, spreads and balls, but also can be outstanding in its own right.

Served by itself, a block of cream cheese can be a stunning appetizer with a covering of Tapenade.  If you are in need of something to serve fast, open an 8oz. package of cream cheese, and spoon about 4-6oz. of tapenade, jarred or your own, diagonally over it. Serve with crackers or other spreadables. 

Tapenade was originally made with capers, black olives, anchovies and lemon juice. Now it includes any Chopped marinated mushrooms, artichoke hearts, smoked oysters or mussels can also cover the cheese, as can spicy rather than mild chutney.

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Or make it especially festive. Cut the block of cream cheese on a diagonal and flip one half over to form a triangle. Add a stick of cinnamon or a twig to form a trunk and it becomes a tree to be decorated as you like. A group of several 4oz. blocks, with different toppings, makes a delicious display.

Most importantly cream cheese is the base of most spreads. Consistency can be controlled with the addition of sour cream or yogurt to convert the mixture to a dip or adjusting the amount to enable the items to stand independently. A few examples follow. First a seasonal pairing…

Sundried Tomato Pate: Serves 6-8—From Tea Time Journeys by Gail Greco
½ cup oil packed sundried tomatoes-drained, save oil for another use.
8 oz. cream cheese
¼ cup butter
½ cup grated parmesan
¼ cup butter
¼ tsp. EACH dried oregano and basil
½ tsp. rosemary
Blend everything until smooth. Chill at least 6 hrs. before serving.

Pesto Spread:  From  HTTPS://WWW.FOOD.COM/RECIPE/PESTO-CREAM-CHEESE-SPREAD-290268
1(8 ounce) package cream cheese, softened

18teaspoon garlic powder

13cup parmesan cheese, grated

3tablespoons butter, softened

12cup pesto sauce

3tablespoons olive oil

Line a 5-3/4×3″ loaf pan with plastic wrap.

In a small bowl, combine cream cheese and garlic powder until well blended; set aside.

In a bowl, combine Parmesan cheese, butter and pesto sauce until blended.

Gradually stir in olive oil.

Spread about 1/4 cup cream cheese mixture into prepared pan.

Carefully spread with 1/3 pesto mixture.

Repeat layers twice.

Top with remaining cream cheese mixture.

Cover and refrigerate at least 5 hours.

Un-mold; serve with crackers and vegetables

Easy Dip:
1 envelope beef bouillon dissolved in ¼ cup water –allows the dip to become a mold(optional)
½  cup cream cheese
½ cup sour cream or plain yogurt
¼ tsp. each onion and garlic powder
1 tsp. strong herb and/or spice of choice or 1 ½  tsp. spicy brown mustard
Mix well or blend until smooth. Chill before serving.

Bleu Cheese Spread:

Packaged salad crumbles work well here
6 oz. bleu cheese – any type Danish, Roquefort,  Gorgonzola
8 oz. cream cheese
1 Tbs. Worcestershire Sauce
1 Tbs. dried minced onion
2 Tbs. White wine
Blend well, place in crock for serving and chill

Packages of shredded cheese from the supermarket Dairy case are useful to create affordable but delicious, attractive hors d’ouvres too. Here’s an example and you can easily think of other combinations.

Cheddar Balls
½ cup shredded cheddar cheese –commercially packaged is fine
3 oz. cream cheese
1 tsp. salt
Red pepper
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 Tbs. paprika
1 Tbs. chili powder
Combine the paprika and chili powder and set aside. Mix all the other ingredients and form into small balls. Roll the balls in the paprika-chili powder mix and chill before serving

In addition, ordinary, everyday ingredients can be transformed into stunning, savory hot appetizers. Here are three illustrations……..

Baked Bean Sandwiches
(1) 15 oz. can Boston baked beans
2 Tbs. ketchup
1 Tbs. spicy brown mustard
1 Tbs. horseradish
½ lb. loaf of Jewish Rye bread sliced thin
Bake the beans until still soft but with little sauce. Mash them with the ketchup, mustard and horseradish, adjusting the taste as you do so. Spread the mixture on one side of half the bread slices and top with the other half. Cut each sandwich into 3 or 4 finger sandwiches. Can be made ahead and refrigerated, covered in plastic wrap, for 1 week, or frozen for 1 month, at this point. Broil until golden on both sides and bubbling. Serve at once.

Spinach Porcupines:
(1) 10 oz. package frozen chopped spinach-thawed and drained
½ cup finely chopped onion
1 egg beaten
2 Tbs. melted butter + 2 teaspoons
1/3 cup fine bread crumbs
2 Tbs. pine nuts-or 1 ½ Tbs. sesame seeds
2 Tbs. grated Parmesan
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. powdered ginger
½ tsp. ground nutmeg
Dash of pepper
Salt to taste
Mix the spinach, egg, onion butter and breadcrumbs together. Add the seasonings and pine nuts and incorporate well. Shape into equal balls about 1 inch diameter each and place on an ungreased cookie sheet. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for about 20 min. or until cooked through and firm. Serve warm with toothpicks.

Zucchini Squares:

3 cups thinly sliced, unpeeled zucchini- a 1 lb. bag of frozen, thawed and drained will do
1 cup Bisquick
½ cup onion chopped
½ tsp. salt
2 Tbs. chopped parsley
1 tsp. dried marjoram or dried oregano
2 cloves garlic mashed
½ tsp. pepper
1/3 cup oil
4 eggs beaten
Mix all the ingredients together and spread in a 13 x 9 x2 inch greased pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 25 min. or until brown. Cut into 1 x2 inch pieces.

Here’s an idea for those who serve beef over the holidays

Hot Dogs in Cumberland Sauce:

1 lb. pkg. hot dogs – any type
(1) 12 oz. jar red currant jelly
¼ cup Dijon or spicy brown mustard
Red pepper flakes or Tabasco to taste
Divide the hot dogs in 6 pieces each. Over medium heat, melt the jelly and mustard together and stir until completely dissolved and combined. Add the hot dog pieces and reduce heat, cook until hot dogs are puffy, @ 5 min. Add hot pepper to taste. Keep hot while serving. Have a cup of toothpicks on the side and some cocktail napkins. Makes 48 pieces

These hot dogs are always wildly popular. They taste really good and people seem to enjoy spearing them with toothpicks, which opens the door to fondues. Fondues are a fun do-it-yourself gimmick at parties and they’re economic. They can offer infinite variety at a reasonable price.

A True Swiss Fondue: Serves 4 for dinner-Divide amounts for canapes
EQUIPTMENT: A Fondue Pot – or 2 Qt. Saucepan you can take to the table, and a candle to keep the food warm.
Bamboo skewers
INGREIDENTS:
2 lbs. grated Swiss cheese – or very thinly sliced and cut in small pieces – rind removed (8 oz. blocks from the store’s dairy counter will do)
6 Tbs. flour
1 garlic clove cut in half
4 cups dry white wine
6 Tbs. brandy
Dash salt
Ground nutmeg
Ground black pepper

Toss cheese and flour to coat well. Rub the inside of the pot with the garlic. Over low heat, cook the wine until bubbles rise to the surface. Add the cheese, a few spoonfuls at a time, stirring constantly. Continue stirring until the cheese melts; the mixture is smooth and begins to bubble. Add the brandy, nutmeg and pepper. Reduce heat until there is just enough to keep the fondue hot, without burning the bottom. It sounds far more difficult than it is, and when made at the table, everyone can watch.

Serve with a variety of dippers – – Pieces of crusty bread, (just be sure the bread has the density to hold up to the sauce, otherwise it will be soggy, or break off and stay on the pot) or cubes of cooked meat –chicken, ham, cooked hot dogs, or vegetables – cherry tomatoes, broccoli or cauliflower flowerets, baby carrots, pieces of bell pepper, scallions, celery even pieces of sturdy fruits like apple, pear, fresh pineapple or banana. The list goes on and on and on.

Meat Fondue 4 servings will require about 2 lbs. total—mixing meats is fine.
1 lbs. chicken tenders-or strips of breast
1 lbs. sturdy fish – packages of frozen Salmon fillets do well
Skewers
1quart of liquid, wine, broth, or juice appropriate to choice of meats
Cut the meat to size and place on the skewers before presenting for cooking. The meats cook at generally the same speeds and mixing them could cause problems.  Cut the fish in chunks. Seafood can be prepared with one or more pieces per skewer.  Thread the chicken strips ribbon style on the skewers.
To serve, heat the liquid with any seasonings you choose, to bubbling. Have the filled skewers ready and allow people to put them in the pot and leave them until done. I often put markers on the table so people can mark their skewers and check for doneness.
The finishing touch is to dip the cooked meat in a sauce before eating. Two easy ones which work with both meats are
1) Bottled barbeque sauce
2) Dill Sauce: equal parts mayonnaise and sour cream with dried dill to taste. Marinate, chilled for several hours to meld flavors and keep cold until serving.

Don’t as the Brits say “go crackers’ over expensive gourmet crackers either. There are other ways to provide things to hold a dip or spread, that will win you raves, even if you couldn’t get to the store. For the diet conscious, sliced apples wiped with lemon water to prevent browning, and peeled, sliced jicama, which stays crisp and doesn’t brown, are nice, fresh alternatives.

1)Flour tortillas, and pita breads (the latter opened to make two circles), cut in wedges, sprayed lightly with oil and sprinkled with lemon pepper, onion powder, garlic powder, or any similar seasoning of your choice, and dusted with paprika, for color, then baked on a foil lined cookie sheet, at 350deg. for 8-10min .make wonderful presentations, and really add taste, especially if the tortillas are tomato or spinach and the tortillas are wheat or flour.
2) Don’t forget bread either. There are really good “party loaves” in the market, usually found near the Deli counter. If you are planning ahead, they keep well frozen and served by themselves or cut and toasted, depending on the use, they can really enhance flavor.

3) You can also make your own. My personal favorite is real Jewish rye, thin sliced, cut into bite size, and lightly toasted. Slices of French or Italian bread, can also be treated the same. Plain loaf slices can be rolled and cut into triangles, sprayed with cooking spray and baked at 350 deg. for 5-8 min Bagels, sliced and toasted are good too.
4) All of the above suggestions keep for about a month in air-tight containers, so make lots at a time and have them on hand!

Finally, a bonus of two excellent but affordable .hors d’ouvres.

Deviled Egg Dip

A simple dip to make from in house items is actually an old family favorite and can do triple duty as a sandwich spread or dressing for a wedge of lettuceThis is a “to taste” recipe rather than an exact one, but the rigid rule to success is that the whites are chopped alone, and the yokes crumbled into the mixture at the end of mixing.
4 hard boiled large eggs – whites finely chopped – yokes reserved
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 Tbs. Spicy Brown Mustard (or more to taste)
¼ tsp. Red Pepper – or to taste
Mix everything but the yokes. Then crumble them in. Mixture will be stiff, but will become more liquid as the flavors meld. Refrigerate at least one hour, adjust seasoning before serving. Makes 1 cup. (Note-Excellent with potato chips)

Marinated Mackerel *
(1) 15 oz. can of mackerel fillets
Cider or red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
Drain the fish, and carefully  brush off the silver skin with a blunt knife. Separate the fillet halves, trying not to break them and remove the spines. Lay the fish halves side by side in a flat bottomed glass or china dish, wide enough to hold 3 fillet halves. Drizzle with 1 tsp. vinegar, then sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Repeat layers and chill several hours before serving.
*This recipe was created for skinless boneless sardines



NUTS-THE PERFECT GIFT/TREAT

All the demands of the winter holidays make downright stressful to cope with the extra gifts the ‘season of giving’ involves, gifts for business associates, social contacts, to say “greetings” to old friends and ‘Thank You”  for regular assistance. These gifts must be impersonal, yet convey your thoughtfulness, be acceptable, usually to the recipient’s family as well, and their cost indiscernible, ranging from casual to pricy, depending on your presentations. That’s a tall order, especially at today’s inflated prices.

Don’t worry! There’s an inexpensive food which, with minimal skill, effort, time and expense transforms into a product surpassing in taste, freshness and appeal its expensive, gourmet commercial counterparts. Furthermore, depending on the packaging, this item can be elegant enough to impress a client or employer, charming enough to amply say Thank You, and personalized enough to please that special someone. It’s nuts!

Specifically, it’s the nuts featured in boutique gifts, almonds, cashews, pecans, walnuts, pistachios, filberts (or hazelnuts) and macadamias. I’m excluding ‘ground’ nuts because peanuts and Brazil nuts are major allergens. Personally, I’m too sensitive to Brazils to sample a standard party mix, eat commercially baked cookies which might contain their oil or any fruit cake or bread but my own. (Although allergies to the other seven nuts are rare, you can play safe and inquire about the recipient before gifting.)

For this ‘magic’ transformation to work, the nuts have to be raw, shelled, but otherwise unprocessed. Raw nuts are available in most full supermarkets, some specialty food stores and even chain pharmacies but the most dependable way to always find them in quantity and quality is Amazon. They are sold in one pound units, costing, roughly, from $7.00 to $15.00, depending on the type of nut. The same unit, simply roasted and salted, purchased as a gourmet gift can cost from $35.00 to $55.00 +.

Buying the nuts raw and roasting them yourself is the key to the ‘fresh’ attractive appearance and greatly improved taste. Most commercially prepared nuts are seasoned, and preserved, by soaking them in a brine rather than hand salting them. As a result they often appear to have a gray filmy coating rather than a shiny golden color high-lighted by glistening grains of salt which distinguishes the high-end gourmet products.(See ‘Pistachios’ below for more on brining.)

Packaging is also a huge influence on achieving the desired effect. Gourmet products are usually sold in boxes or tins, both of which are easily found in great variety from dollar stores on up the price range. Of course, a special gift might need a more pricy presentation and these particular contents are elegant enough to do justice to any container.

The point is, that with little outlay, learning to process nuts, opens a wide window of gifting possibilities which goes a long way in solving any problems on your holiday list. Actually, I’ve found this useful for other occasions during the year, especially hosting and anniversaries. The best thing is that you can tailor each gift in perceived value to its recipient, without worrisome searching for ‘just the right thing.’

When buying, look for whole, raw, shelled nuts. The shelling is tedious and, if not expertly done, can result in a lot of breakage and consequently loss of money and time. Pistachios are the exception. Their shells pop open on the trees when they ripen, giving options in preparation and presentation explained below.

Macadamias also need a bit of special roasting. Not only do they contain the highest percentage of fat, but they’re air dried before being sold commercially, hence they tend to burn quickly.

Filberts (hazelnuts) and almonds must be skinned . With filberts, it’s done by placing the warm nuts in a dish towel, allowing them to sit for 5-10 min. then rubbing them vigorously in the towel. The skins peel right off. They can then be salted or, if for appearance they should be more golden, return them to the oven for 2-3 min. and then salt them.

Almonds need to be blanched or boiled. Cover them with about 2 inches of water to spare in a pot and bring to boiling for about 3 min. turn off the heat and leave for 3 min. more. Drain the nuts, cool under cold water enough to handle, squeeze and the nut will slide out of the skin, ready for roasting. Allow about 30 min. for this process per pound of nuts.

Pistachios are roasted both in shell and out and can be bought raw both ways.  The actual roasting is the same, so the choice is optional, usually determined by the intended presentation. Generally, in shell they are served solo* and shelled, in a mix. There is, however, a difference in preparation. Out-of-shell they’re salted after roasting like other nuts but in shell they’re soaked in a brine before roasting so the seasoning is on the nut, not the shell

To brine: soak the nuts per pound, in 1 cup water, 2 tsp. salt, 1 tsp. citrus juice for 24 hr. Air dry for 24 hr. before roasting according to chart below.
*The dyed pistachios, once imported from Iran, are again available. The bright red shells cupping the green nuts are very decorative and especially festive at this season.

The actual roasting process is straightforward but requires attention because it can be tricky toward the end.  You will need a sheet pan with sides, also called a jelly roll pan, large enough to hold a pound of nuts.(at least 11’x15’) If it isn’t non-stick, cover the bottom with foil. Add 1 tsp. butter* and melt it while the oven is preheating to the desired temperature, according to the chart below. Gently roll the nuts in the butter with a wooden spoon, arranging them in one layer. Repeat this action frequently while the nuts are baking so they brown evenly on both sides. They won’t change color at first, but once they begin to brown, they burn fast. It’s imperative to stay alert and remove the nuts from the oven the instant they reach desired doneness.

*The addition of a bit of fat acts like sun-tan oil. It insures that the browning is even from the start and provides a bit of protection until the nuts’ oil begins to come out. Some instructions call for vegetable or canola oil, but I prefer butter because it browns better and adds a bit of flavor. 

Once roasted, turn the nuts out on a flat surface covered in paper towels, to absorb any excess oil, and sprinkle them liberally with salt, gently turning them to insure the salt reaches both sides. Allow them to cool totally, which will crisp them. Then be sure to store them in air-tight containers.

Raw nuts last for months in their original, commercial packaging, and I found that once opened, refrigeration maintains that shelf life. Roasted and salted, in air-tight containers, stored in a cool, dark, dry place they will keep 4-6 weeks. Moisture ruins the crispness, so don’t refrigerate the roasted ones and be aware, depending on the storage conditions, nuts go rancid quickly. So check them often.

Nuts must be roasted separately according to time and temperature for each type and it’s preferable to store them separately too. They tend to meld tastes and the difference in shapes rubs the salt off. Therefore, to maintain freshness and appearance, it’s best not to combine nuts into a mix until a few days before gifting or serving .

It sounds like a tedious amount of caution, but it’s not. The different batches of nuts are stored as finished and the mixes can be compiled to suit the recipient or guest. Also, this way, one type can be offered alone or used for another purpose.

So if you want an elegant, personalized, tasteful and tasty gift, especially for those on your list who are hard to shop for, or are searching for a gift that is always appropriate, or perhaps need one that is impressive without costing a fortune, here’s the solution to your problem. What’s more, if you have a source, or use Amazon, you can buy it, make it and have it ready to present or serve in 3 days. In addition, it’s been my experience you can gain yourself a bit of ‘star status’ because these are well received and become frequent requests.

RECIPES

Roasted, Salted Nuts:

Follow the directions given above, using the times and temperatures listed on the chart below for each type of nut.
Hazelnuts—250-275deg.—20 min.
Macadamias –225-250 deg.—10-15min.
Pecans 325 deg. -15min
Pistachios 350 deg. 8min.
Walnuts 350deg. -15min.
Cashews 350deg. -15min.
Almonds 350 deg. 20 min.

Mixed Pesto Nuts:

Yield 4 cups
1 ½ cups pecan halves
1 ½ cups blanched almonds
1 cup walnut halves
3 Tbs. oil
2 Tbs. shelled pistachios or pine nuts
2 cloves minced garlic
2/3 cup chopped fresh basil
½ cup Parmesan cheese
½ tsp. salt
Make pesto by processing last 5 ingredients until well blended, slowly add oil until smooth. Preheat oven to 350 deg. and spread nuts out in a 15X 10 x ½ inch pan. Spread pesto over the nuts and bake13-15 min. stirring every 5 min., until toasted. Cool completely on paper towels and package as above.
NOTE: I see no reason why commercially made pesto can’t be used for this recipe.

Candied Nuts:

For 2 ½ cups whole nuts or unbroken halves of walnuts or pecans.
Sugared Pecans or Walnuts:

2 cups shelled pecan or walnut halves
1 cup light brown sugar
1/3 cup melted butter
1 tsp. cinnamon
Preheat oven to 325 deg. Stir all ingredients together and spread on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Bake for 15-20 min. stirring often. Cool on sheet and break apart with a fork. Package as directed above.

Coffee Candied Nuts

½ cup very strong coffee
1 ½ cups sugar
1 Tbs. corn syrup
Cook above ingredients to soft-ball stage = 240 deg. F. Remove from heat, add nuts and gently stir until creamy. Spread on a greased cookie sheet and separate with a fork . Cool and package as directed above.

Orange Candied Nuts:

Substitute ¼ cup orange juice for coffee in the above recipe and add ¼ tsp. cinnamon. Proceed as above.

Glaceed Nuts:

Can coat 1 lb. or more of nuts, but excess coating can’t be saved for re-use.

2 cups sugar
1 cup boiling water
1/8 tsp. Cream of Tartar
Heat ingredients in the top pan of a double-boiler on low, stirring until sugar dissolves. Then allow to boil unstirred until syrup reached hard-boil stage= 300 deg. F. Place pan over one of warm water to prevent hardening and quickly dip nuts. Remove them with a fork or slotted spoon to dry on waxed paper. Allow to dry and harden before moving for packaging.

PAN SAUCE-A COOK’S PAL

Two weeks ago (Nov.16, 2023) my posting was about gravies and it seems only fair that time be given to their alter-egos, sauces, especially with the holiday season ahead. Many party recipes rely on sauces and a general knowledge of making them can turn a ho-hum dish into something special, especially for unexpected guests or impromptu gatherings.

In the earlier posting, I explained that both gravy and sauce are fluids served with a featured ingredient to enhance its flavor and/or texture and both can be made from a base of ”roux” or “slurry”. I gave detailed instructions for both processes in the post cited above, just click the link. The difference is that gravy is created from essence derived from cooking the main ingredient of a dish, be it animal or vegetable. This is why using the drippings from a roast is called Pan Gravy, not Pan Sauce even if done in a pot on stovetop or simply served as Au Jus. Italians are correct in calling what we refer to as Tomato Sauce, Tomato Gravy. It’s made from the pulp or meat of tomatoes. A sauce is constructed by mixing entirely separate ingredients from the main one. Hence gravies are mainly associated with the entrée, whereas sauces appear with every course, cover a far wider range and can be made in many ways other than the basic roux and slurry.”

In my book SAVVY SAUCES and GRAVIES I explain that Sauces exist in infinite variety and are extremely versatile. A working knowledge of their basics is a real asset in the kitchen. Many sauces are familiar to us and regularly used; melted butter can be a sauce, but so are mayonnaise, pancake syrup and dessert toppings. Sauces range from the simple to the complex, yet often encountering the word on a menu conveys sophistication. This is the secret charm of sauces. They can be taken for granted or add instant glamour to the ordinary. They can dress up a dish, moisten a dry one, transform leftovers or even provide the basis for the whole recipe. Sauces made by deglazing the sauté pan with added ingredients are in this category.

A full explanation of sauces will aid in clarifying food articles, including restaurant reviews, help in choosing recipes to try and in decoding menu options when eating out. This last advantage could be important for those on diets. A working knowledge of sauces allows adjustments to be made for dietary requirements, but restaurants, striving for professional ratings, stick to classic renditions and full strength sauces are not diet friendly. The truth is most basic sauces are easy to make and familiarity with them is a valuable tool. So let’s discuss a few of the simpler ones, ways they can be altered for different uses and directions for making them.

The simplest sauces are GLAZES, made by melting a food in its solid state, for example jelly, or sugar, over low heat while adding a liquid, usually flavored, such as juice or wine, to transform it into a pourable consistency and alter its taste to compliment the flavor of the dish it accompanies. If the dish is roasted, the glaze may be added during the cooking and will usually be mentioned on the menu.

Only slightly more complicated are REDUCTIONS. Here a liquid like broth, stock, wine or juice is simmered (cooked just under low boil) until the water content evaporates reducing the volume, thickening the consistency and intensifying the flavor. Reductions can be started over a base of cooking vegetables, a canned broth, even a deglazed pan. Often they need to be strained to smooth them and a pat of butter added at the end will give them a silky finish.

COULIS is a sauce made by cooking the meat of vegetables or fruit, then pureeing and straining it, often adding spices or herbs. These days it would seem more of a condiment, usually encountered dribbled over a dish or decoratively around a plate rim. This includes, returning to the tomato discussion, the jarred or canned tomato “sauce “dear to many generations of spaghetti lovers is as opposed to the heartier tomato “gravy”.

Sauces using a thickening agent are probably the widest varied group. There are three major thickening agents, egg yolks, flour and cornstarch. Arrowroot and tapioca are sometimes mentioned in recipes, but to keep the pantry simple, as I mentioned above, I don’t use them, substituting either flour or cornstarch.

EGG thickened sauces generally follow the same procedure. The yolks are beaten in a bowl and the other ingredients are heated on a stove. A bit of the hot liquid is poured into the eggs to warm them and prevent them scrambling when introduced to the heat as they’re added to the pot. Then the mixture is stirred constantly to prevent curdling until it thickens to the desired consistency. Because of the hazards associated with raw eggs, it’s wise to avoid the “No Cook” recipes for these sauces, but there are plenty of excellent powdered ones available for those short on time.

This opens the door for a look into the world of classic sauces. According to French tradition, there are 5 WARM “Mother” sauces, 2 COLD “Mother” sauces and 1 in a category of its own; for a total of 8 sauces. A “Mother” sauce is one whose taste is integral to the dish(es) with which it is served and be can be modified to create several other sauces, some of which can be further modified to create a third generation of sauces; grandchildren as it were. Sauces can even form the basis of a dish such as Lobster Newburg or Chicken a la King.

I want to discuss these classics with you, but let’s save that for anther posting or this will run way too long. Right now let’s look at other types which will be the more likely to appear on your menu this holiday. Glazes, Reductions and Coulis are all pretty straightforward as well as being more opportunistic choices, dependent on what is available, or appealing at the moment, rather than a classic pairing. They can be planned ahead, such as a ham glaze, or result from last minute ideas resulting from pantry supplies, such as a reduction or coulis to perk up a dessert. The best way to master them is to experiment with a few, learn, how simple they are and stash the knowledge in your culinary tool kit.

Pan sauces are the most versatile and, in my kitchen, frequently used type. I make them for all sorts of meats and fish, especially leftovers, no matter how I cook them, except roasting. Last week in writing about turkey leftovers I included a link to a recipe for Turkey in Orange Sauce, which I repeat below. I have used this sauce on chicken, pork and a variation on salmon by adding a bit of Marsala, but Bourbon would do as well. This is just a small example of the ways in which these sauces can be modified to fit the food they compliment.

I find the simplest way to start a pan sauce and to add a bit of flavor is by using the oil and/or butter in which I’ve cooked the meat, or if using leftovers, melting a bit of butter with oil in the pan, and sautéing diced onion until soft, before adding juice and/or wine and/or broth and any other ingredients and seasonings and/or flavorings. Then I return the meat to the pan and let it simmer in the sauce for about 10 min. to let the flavors absorb. My usual calculations for two are to use 1 Tbs. each butter and oil and ½ cup liquid. Flavorings and seasonings are dependent on purpose, ingredients and taste.

I also make these sauces when baking meats or fish. I melt the oil and butter in the pan, then mix the liquid sauce ingredients, with seasonings and/or flavorings in a cup and pour half over meat or fish before baking and the rest just before finishing. When doing this I reduce the oil and butter each to half quantity. That was the method I used in making this week’s photo recipe, which is a fillet of salmon with a teaspoon of mustard on top, wrapped in a slice of ham and baked at 350 deg. for 20-25 min. using the orange sauce in the next recipe.

Here again is the basic recipe for (Leftover) Turkey in Orange Sauce followed by some suggestions for variations. Remember all these recipes work just as well with fresh meat sautéed in the pan first.

TURKEY in ORANGE SAUCE – Serves 4
4 portions of large pieces of frozen turkey thawed
1 medium-small onion diced fine
1 Tbs. oil
1/3 cup frozen orange juice concentrate*
1 ½ cups white wine*
1 Tbs. soy sauce or to taste
orange marmalade or brown sugar to taste
3 Tbs. match stick pieces of orange rind ½ inch long
Sauté the onion in the oil until soft, about 3 min. Add the juice, wine, soy sauce and orange rind. Stir to mix well and taste to adjust flavors adding marmalade or sugar if needed. This sauce should be tangy. Add the meat to the pan and simmer for about 10 min. to infuse the flavors. Serve hot.
* equal amounts of fresh orange juice can be substituted, but it’s best to dissolve ½ tsp. of cornstarch in the liquid first, and stir until slightly thickened before adjusting seasoning or adding the meat.

This technique works well substituting ½ cup, or to taste, leftover whole cranberry sauce for the frozen orange juice concentrate, mixing it with the wine and omitting the soy sauce and marmalade. The orange rind is optional.

Variations:

1) After sautéing the onion in the oil, substitute 2 cups Madera for Marsala with 1 tsp. cornstarch dissolved in it. Add with meat and gently stir until sauce thickens. Serve at once.

2) Substitute white wine for the others mentioned above. Add 1tsp. dried Tarragon and 8-12 raw shrimp with the meat and stir until shrimp is pink and sauce thickens about 3 min.

3) Add ½ cup roughly chopped reconstituted sun-dried tomatoes and ½ tsp. dried oregano to the pan with the wine and stir to partially thicken sauce. Add meat and heat through as sauce
finishes thickening. Remove from heat and add 1/3 cup sour cream. Gently stir over medium-low heat only until warmed through. Be careful, if it boils it will curdle. Serve at once.
4) Substitute 2 Tbs. Red raspberry jam + ¼ cup white wine or apple juice, with a drop of lemon juice added, for the other ingredients. Add the meat and simmer about 6 min to infuse flavor. This dish perks up with a good dash of black pepper.

REVIEWING TURKEY LEFTOVER RECIPES

Stripping the carcass sounds more labor intensive than it is. (See post for Nov. 28, 2019) Set out a plate, size dependent on the amount of meat left on the carcass, and cut, or pull the meat off the bones, putting it on the plate. Toss the bones pieces of cartilage, joints, and any pieces of skin in a large pot as you go. When finished stripping, cover the pot contents with water, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer about 2 hours. This will make soup or stew base. When it is finished, strain and store in plastic containers with lids and freeze. Do not skim it. The fat will form a hard layer on top which keeps the broth fresh and can easily be scraped off before thawing for use.

Tip for freezing stuffing. Store stuffing in plastic containers with lids and cover with a few tablespoons of the broth. This prevents the stuffing from drying out and locks in flavor and texture. Use within 3 weeks.

To freeze the meat, I divide it into piles, small, for soups and chilies, medium, for stews and casseroles, and large, for pan sautés or sauced dishes.  I use plastic wrap to seal it into size-labeled 2-portion packages, and freeze the packages in bags. Depending on the turkey and the number of guests I served, I usually count on having the basis for 10-15, 2-serving meals on tap. It’s a real stress saver in the weeks ahead and a great reward for having cooked a big bird.

I do love leftovers and I’ve written posts focused on leftover turkey recipes over the years, each discussing a different aspect of transforming leftovers into delicious, fresh appearing meals. There’s no excuse for re-runs or boredom, or reason not to enjoy the leftovers for months. Turkey freezes very well. 

Below I list links to my turkey leftover posts along with the recipe contents in each. I’ve deleted repeats but you’ll find there are plenty of recipes to serve up the leftovers of more than one bird in style. As I said above, this post is a condensed version of dealing with leftovers; the other texts are more specifically focused on the details of the process not only of prepping but also of stripping the carcus. Some have specific focus; for example Nov. 20, 2014 and Nov. 27, 2014 discuss boiling the bones for soup and gravy base and using gravies and sauces in leftover recipes.

LINKS

Dec. 21, 2011        Nov. 15, 2012     Nov. 19, 2012           Nov.29, 2012         Dec. 2, 2013         Nov. 20, 2014   Nov.27, 2014      Nov. 18, 2015        Nov. 3, 2016    Nov.24, 2016       Nov.23, 2017        Nov. 22, 2018    Nov.21, 2019       

RECIPES
Recipes Targeting Different Meat Sizes — Nov. 25, 2021
SMALL
Stuffing Soup: 6 servings   Dec.21.2011
Enchiladas: Serves 4   
Nov.23,2017
Italian Chicken or Turkey Bundles: Serves 5—Freezes*This recipe is adapted from The U.S. Personal Chef Ass. Collection   Nov. 23, 1017
MEDIUM
Hot Chicken or Turkey Salad:  Serves 6   
Nov. 21, 2019
Turkey, Pear and Pasta Salad: Serves 6-This recipe builds on the classic pears, blue cheese and walnuts salad combination.  
Nov. 23, 2017
Medium size pieces of leftover turkey are great for pastas, pizzas and stir-fries. Included are recipe suggestions for each.
Turkey CurryServes 
4     Nov.29, 2012 
Turkey with Walnuts (Tetrazzini): Serves 4 Nov. 22, 2018
Turkey with Sundried Tomatoes and Sour Cream:– Serves 4
– Nov. 18, 2015

LARGE
Turkey Divan: Serves 4*   
Nov. 18, 2015
Chicken or Turkey a la King Pierre—Serves 4   
Nov.22, 2018
This recipe is based on the dish served in the Café Pierre in the Hotel Pierre in New York City and is as suitable for entertaining as for a simple dinner at home.
PAN SAUCES The majority of recipes with sauces that are intended for pork, veal and poultry can be adapted to use leftover turkey. The simplest and quickest are the pan sauces that develop from recipes that start with the meat being browned by sautéing and removed from the pan first. Just assume the meat is brown and pick up the directions from there, then put it in the pan at the end to absorb flavor and heat through
.  Nov. 24, 2016      
Turkey in Orange Sauce – Serves 4—Variations included

Turkey Leftovers From Elegant To Everyday –Nov. 21, 2019
Salad with Grapes
Turkey, Pear and Pasta Salad
Hot Turkey (Chicken) Salad
Turkey with Mushrooms in Cream Sauce
Turkey with Olives
Sauces-Basic White, Orange, Normandy and Sour Cream
Turkey with Sundried Tomatoes in Sour Cream
Turkey Divan
Stuffed Portobellos
Turkey Hash
Classic Fajitas
Lasagna
Turkey Stir-Fry
Ravioli with Lime-Balsamic Dressing
Tukey Stir Fry
Enchiladas
More Suggestions

How to Make Magic with Leftovers – Nov.24, 2016
Detailed directions on freezing turkey mear and bone broth      Great Gravey– Nov. 20,2o14
Difference between gravy and sauce; directions for making both , including basic recipes for gravies and the % French Mother Sauces. Introduction to my book Savvy Sauces and Gravies available in tis site’s Books/Products section.

HOW TO MAKE THE BEST GRAVY AND SAUCES

Thanksgiving is really the start of five weeks of celebrating various holidays, ending New Year’s Day. Those weeks are filled with feasts, parties and social gatherings requiring food, not every day fare but festive, attractive party food. The best way to dress up any dishes’ presentation isn’t just with garnishes but with gravy or sauce.

Every cuisine lists gravies and sauces in two separate categories, just as languages give them diverse names, but some confusion persists as to their definitive difference because, in fact, they are very similar. Both are pourable used to enhance various solid foods, flavored with the same herbs and spices, created using the same ingredients by the same process. (See post for Nov. 20, 2014  and  Dec. 4 & 12. 2014)

The difference is simply that gravy is made from a meat stock, pan drippings, boiled meat and/or bones. Sauce is based on any other liquid, juice, milk, wine etc.  This explains why Italians always say “Tomato gravy” not tomato sauce. The dish is made from boiling the whole tomato, not just the rendered juice and is designated a ragu or gravy. French tomato sauce, made from the rendered juice, is considered a sauce.

In my book Savvy Sauces and Gravies, I explain that both dishes are made using either flour or cornstarch as a thickener by creating a slurry or a roux. Personally, I’ve found cornstarch yields a clearer product, but doesn’t keep as well, tending to become watery when reheated.

A SLURRY is made by dissolving a measured amount of thickener in an ample amount of cold liquid which is then poured into a specific amount of hot liquid to be thickened. The whole is maintained at a low boil, stirring constantly, until desired thickness is achieved-usually about 3 mins. 

A ROUX is usually made with flour rather than cornstarch.  A measured amount of butter or margarine is heated to foam then a measured amount of thickener is stirred in off heat, to make a smooth paste. Quickly add a measured amount of cold liquid, whisking to avoid lumps. This can then be added to a main body of a dish and stirred as above to desired consistency. It can also be made into a sauce itself by heating to a simmer and stirring constantly until thick enough, about 3 min.

Slurries are more often used for making gravies and thickening stews and soups because the fat from the meat is sufficient to make the final product smooth. If not, a pat of butter is a recommendation before serving. Roux incorporates the fat in the base, making it better for silky sauces but requiring too much fat to be healthy in larger quantities. However, both methods can be regulated to yield dishes of various thicknesses from thin to very thick.  

The basic formulas are: 

SLURRY: A few simple rules for making one:
    1) The dissolving fluid should be room temperature and at least twice the amount of the thickener–
        for example 1 Tbs. flour to 2 Tbs. liquid
    2) Be sure the powdered thickener is fully dissolved
    3) Remember to include the amount of dissolving fluid in the total amount to be thickened when
    calculating the quantity of thickening powder needed.
    4) For stews, gravies. soups etc. the base liquid should be skimmed of as much fat as possible or the
        end product can become heavy, glue-like and separate. Cooling the liquid before adding the
        slurry, if time allows, lets the fat congeal and be easily skimmed. This aids the incorporation
        of the slurry reducing the chance of lumping.
    5) Return to the heat, bring to a low boil and stir until thick as wanted, about 3 min.

            PROPORTIONS:
            THIN: 1 Tbs. flour or ½ Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid= Soup
            *MEDIUM: 2 Tbs. flour or 1 Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid = Gravies, Casseroles, Stews, Gratins
                                        sauces
            THICK: 3 Tbs. flour or 1 ½ Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid=Soufflés, accompanying dessert sauces

ROUX: Rules for the Basic White Sauce-Also known as Béchamel Sauce * or Basic White Sauce   
          1) Be sure the butter or margarine are foaming. Then remove from heat at once.
          2) The blending of fat and thickener must be a smooth paste
          3) The liquid should be room temperature or below when added to the paste. Add it all at once
                and whisk or stir vigorously to make sure it’s all incorporated before heating it to avoid lumps.
            4) Stir constantly until it reaches a simmer and achieves desired thickness, about 3 min

                PROPORTIONS:
                  THIN: 1 Tbs. flour or ½ Tbs. cornstarch + 1 Tbs.  butter per 1 cup liquid = Soups

                  *MEDIUM:  2 Tbs. flour or 1 Tbs. cornstarch +2 Tbs. butter per 1 cup liquid =Stews, Gravies,
                                            Gratins, Sauces
                  THICK: 4 Tbs. flour or 2 Tbs. cornstarch + 4 Tbs. butter per 1 ½ cup liquid = Soufflés,
                                            accompanying dessert sauces
* Denotes most frequently used consistency with the most cook friendly variations.
          TIP: 1 Tbs. = 3 tsp.

Tips and Trouble Shooting
1) For older or family recipes, cornstarch and flour can substitute for arrowroot and tapioca
2) Be sure the thickening agent is incorporated into the liquid or mixed into a smooth paste before adding it to the base liquid
3) A spoon may be all that’s needed with slurry, but for roux, use a soon for the paste then whisk in the liquid and continue whisking until the mixture is smooth before using a spoon to stir
4) The mixture will make a ripping sound as the sides of the pot are scraped with the spoon. When the sound stops, the product is cooked.
5) The base liquid can be warm when thickening a slurry but it’s best room temp or chilled for roux. Otherwise the thickening agent will cook too fast and clump.
6) Stick to the formula proportions. If lumps form, whisk briskly, use a hand mixer or a blender with a tablespoon of water added gradually.
7) If the meat is too lean to rend, canned broth may replace the natural juices for a gravy and a pat of butter may be needed at the end to ‘finish’ or to smooth it.
8) Making the roux and adding the fluid are easiest done off the heat. When the paste seems incorporated into the fluid, the pot can be returned to medium heat 

9)  Overcooking will thin the gravy. For this reason it’s usually made just before serving. If it’s made ahead, rather than keep it warm, allow it to cool, but stir occasionally to avoid congealing. Reheat on low then medium-

10) Always remember to adjust seasonings before serving
11) To remove excess fat, chill or skim with a spoon or by running a paper towel across the surface. Whisk to incorporate the solids
12) If over cooking or re-heating thins the gravy, allow it to cool, sift in more flour, stirring as you do and repeat the thickening process by cooking for about 3 min. This may blunt seasoning so be sure to check taste.

13) The best way to avoid trauma, or errors, is to practice. Make a few dishes requiring gravy before the big day. It will give you confidence.


Basic Recipe Examples

Turkey Gravy: Yield 1 quart
4 cups rendered drippings from cooking turkey-skimmed
8 Tbs. flour
Kitchen Bouquet
Bell’s Poultry Seasoning
Put 6 ½ cups broth in a clean pot. Combine the flour and the 1 ½ cups broth in a large glass jar with a tight lid. Shake and stir the jar until the flour and broth are well mixed. Put the pot on a medium-high burner, stir in the slurry mix and continue stirring until it comes to a slight boil. Turn down heat to medium and continue to stir until desired thickness. Reduce heat to warm, add Kitchen Bouquet for color and Bell’s for seasoning to taste. Serve within a few minutes stirring often.

MY CUCUMBER BISQUE; Serves 4 for dinner-6 for luncheon (Thin Slurry)
4 or 5 large cucumbers—peeled, seeded and roughly sliced
Chicken broth to cover- about 1 qt. with 1 cup reserved
Salt and pepper- to taste if needed
Sour Cream
Paprika
Chopped chives
2 Tbs. Flour
Boil the cucumber in the broth until very soft-about 20 mins.  Make a slurry of the reserved broth and flour. Add to the pot at the end of cooking and boil for 3 mins.  Blend the soup to a smooth consistency. Correct seasonings-but remember cucumber is a very delicate flavor. Chill. Serve in bowls topped with a dollop of sour cream a sprinkling of paprika and chopped chives.

MY CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN: Serves 4 to 6 (Medium Roux)
1 large head of cauliflower – leaves trimmed off and par-boiled
3 Tbs. flour
3 Tbs. butter
1 ½ cups milk
Garlic powder, salt and pepper to taste-sparingly
¼ cup grated cheddar cheese
½ cup grated Parmesan
Paprika
Place the cauliflower in an oven proof serving dish. Make a roux of the butter, flour and milk then cook into a white sauce adding the garlic, salt and pepper. As it finishes add the cheddar cheese until it melts. Correct seasonings, and pour over the cauliflower. Cover with the grated Parmesan, and sprinkle with Paprika, Bake in a pre-heated 350 deg. oven 30 to 40 min. or until golden and bubbling. Serve at once.

GRAVY is the narrower field with fewer variations. SAUCES on the other hand, exist in infinite variety and are extremely versatile. A working knowledge of their basics is a real asset in the kitchen. Many sauces are familiar to us and regularly used; melted butter can be a sauce, but so are mayonnaise, pancake syrup and dessert toppings. Sauces range from the simple to the complex, yet often encountering the word on a menu conveys sophistication. This is the secret charm of sauces. They can be taken for granted or add instant glamour to the ordinary. They can dress up a dish, moisten a dry one, transform leftovers or even provide the basis for the whole recipe.  Sauces made by deglazing the sauté pan with added ingredients are in this category.

The simplest sauces are GLAZES, made by melting a food in its solid state, for example jelly, or sugar, over low heat while adding a liquid, usually flavored, to transform it into a pourable consistency and alter its taste to compliment the flavor of the dish it accompanies. If the dish is roasted, the glaze may be added during the cooking and will usually be mentioned on the menu.

Only slightly more complicated are REDUCTIONS.  Here a liquid like broth, stock, wine or juice is simmered (cooked just under low boil) until the water content evaporates reducing the volume, thickening the consistency and intensifying the flavor. Reductions can be started over a base of cooking vegetables, a canned broth, even a deglazed pan. Often they need to be strained to smooth them and a pat of butter added at the end will give them a silky finish.

COULIS is a sauce made by of vegetables or fruit, then cooking the meat pureeing and straining it, often adding spices or herbs. These days it would seem more of a condiment, usually encountered dribbled over a dish or decoratively around a plate rim. This includes what, returning to the tomato discussion, the jarred or canned tomato “sauce “dear to many generations of spaghetti lovers as opposed to the heartier tomato “gravy”.

Sauces using a thickening agent are probably the widest varied group, encompassing three major thickening agents, egg yolks, flour and cornstarch. Arrowroot and tapioca are sometimes mentioned in recipes, usually older ones, but to keep the pantry simple, I don’t use them, substituting either flour or cornstarch.

EGG thickened sauces generally follow the same procedure. The yolks are beaten in a bowl and the other ingredients are heated on a stove. A bit of the hot liquid is poured into the eggs to warm them and prevent them scrambling when introduced to the heat as they’re added to the pot. Then the mixture is stirred constantly to prevent curdling until it thickens to the desired consistency. Because of the hazards associated with raw eggs, it’s wise to avoid the “No Cook” recipes for these sauces, but there are plenty of excellent powdered ones available for those short on time.

However, this does open the door for a look into the world of classic sauces according to the French, with some guidance from Julia Child and Alma Lach. There are 5 WARM “Mother” sauces, 2 COLD “Mother” sauces and 1 in a category of its own; for a total of 8 sauces.  A “Mother” sauce is one whose taste is integral to the dish(es) with which it is served and be can be modified to create several other sauces, some of which can be further modified to create a third generation of sauces; grandchildren as it were. Several sauces can form the basis of a dish such as Lobster Newburg or Chicken a la King.

*The most fundamental of the classic French sauces is the Béchamel described above, which is quite simply a roux made with milk and/or cream. The other Mother sauces are Sauce Volute, Hollandaise,Demi-Glace, Sauce de Tomate, Mayonnaise, Oil and Vinegar and Sauces au Burre(Butter Sauces) I explore all of them, plus their offspring in Savvy Sauces and Gravies, explaining how to make them, use them and build on them, including directions for popular sauces like Marsala, Picatta, Cranberry, dessert sauces such as raspberry, even custard filling. 

In the book, I show how to make sauces to fit your needs, to make them do double duty, give you options, giving recipe examples, including one multi task recipe. I also discuss pan sauces you can create as you cook. But that’s such a big topic I’m going to save it for a discussion closer to the holidays.

TURKEY A to Z

Turkey trauma is quite real. I had a neighbor who happily cooked a standing rib roast every Christmas but dealing with the Thanksgiving turkey always terrified her. Perhaps it’s the fact that a turkey is probably the largest and heaviest item we cook, but it’s really no different than roasting a chicken, or any other bird. It just takes longer.

Choosing a turkey is the same as it is with other birds too. When looking at two or more of equal weight, pick the plumpest. It will be the meatiest because the bones are identical weight. 

There used to be bins of turkeys in stores all year. Now they only appear before Thanksgiving, offering different types of turkeys. There’s the pre-basted, the double-breasted domestic, and, if the store is connected a southern chain, the Texas turkey. Prized by Texans, these birds are close to wild turkeys. They’re leaner, with longer necks, coarser grained, darker hued meat, less of it white, with a stronger, slightly ‘gamey’ flavor. I prefer the double-breasted domestic birds and I like a Tom, or male. Toms are less fatty than hens, or females and larger, usually over 18 lb. I go for 22-25 lb. because it’s no more effort and I like having cooked turkey meat in the freezer for easy meals. There’s a whole post on these recipes coming up on Thanksgiving Day, Nov.25, 2023.

I used to buy a more expensive fresh turkey for Christmas, which has to be prepped and cooked when bought. Then, one year a Dec. 24th snowstorm nearly ruined my holiday. I decided fresh really weren’t superior enough to be worth the worry and have stuck to frozen ever since. The prepping is the same, only the thawing is different. 

I start thawing my bird in the cold garage 24 hr. before I want to start prepping. If I’m in a hurry, I may substitute 8-12 hr. in the house. As soon as I can remove the wrapper and leg braces, I immerse it in cool water until I can remove the giblet bag and neck. Then I drain it remove the oil gland at the base of the spine, clean the cavity of any organic bits, coat it with salt and return the bird to a cool water bath for about 2 hours. I rinse it well and let it sit in fresh cool water until I’m ready to stuff and cook it. I’ve never had a problem with this process, but of course, timing varies with weight.

Knowing about thawing is important because in the past 15 yrs., turkeys in December are not as available and far more expensive, costing as much as three times more, than at Thanksgiving. I learned this the hard way, by ordering an identical bird to the one I bought in November, for pick-up in December. The first cost under $20.00 and the second over $45.00.  Now, I buy two birds at Thanksgiving and save one for Christmas. Actually, with food prices today, and the savings of prepping for any event ahead, or simply taking advantage of sales, a freezer, even a little one, is a sound investment.

As you’ve gathered, my approach to turkeys is bigger is better because they s-t-r-e-a-c-h. I love leftovers, they make wonderful impromptu meals and it’s relaxing to know you have the basis of dinner on hand. A larger bird can give you that with only a bit more cooking time and no extra effort. Turkey meat freezes well and given the seasonal prices now, getting a larger one is an economy. So do stop and think before you cut back on size of the bird for holiday dinners this difficult year.

When I’m ready to stuff and cook a turkey, I remove the water and sit it on end for about 0 min. to drain the excess water. It’s very important the turkey be put into a preheated oven as soon as it’s stuffed and that you follow cooking instructions for times and temperatures, especially noting the differences between stuffed and unstuffed birds. I explain each of these steps in detail in my post for Nov. 15, 2012.

To simplify things, here is a roasting chart from famous food writer and teacher David Joachim’s book, 5,000 Food Tips and Tricks. The cooking times are a bit longer than other charts and I truly believe safer. The oven temperature is 325 deg. and the temperatures required for doneness are 180 deg. for the breast and 165 deg. for the stuffing.

—————————————————————————————————————————————–                                

Weight           Fridge defrosting               Cold water defrost        Roasting unstuffed             Roasting stuffed
_____________________________________________ _______________________________________

5-7lb.                 16-22 hr.                              3-5 hr.                        1 ½ -2 hr.                               2-2 ½ hr.
7-9 lb.                18-24 hr.                              4-6 hr.                        2-2 ½ hr.                                2 ½ -3 hr.
9-11 lb.              24-36 hr.                              8-10 hr.                     3-3 ½ hr.                                 4-4 ½ hr.
12-15 lb.            36-48 hr.                              10-14 hr.                   3 ½ -4 hr.                                4 ½ -5 hr.
16-20 lb.             48-64 hr.                             16-20 hr.                   4-6 hr.                                     5 ½ -7 hr.  
___________________________________________________________________________________

Stuffings, both for cooking in bird and separately, are discussed in my posts for Nov.19, 2012  Nov. 3, 2016 and more recently updated, Nov. 19, 2020The first post gives the fundamentals of stuffing making and the basic recipe for bread stuffing which can be modified in so many ways. The more recent post explores 10 different stuffing recipes, among them Wild Rice, Squash, Mushroom and Cranberry, with an eye to trying something new this year to brighten the holidays. The most important things to remember in dealing with stuffing is that always stuff the bird just before placing in the oven and all stuffing, regardless of ingredients, must register 165 deg. to be considered cooked through and ready to be served. Finally, be sure to remove stuffing as soon after dinner and store separately. For freezing tips, see the storing section below.

Gravy is another important accompaniment to a roast, especially turkey. It’s important to remember that gravy is an accessory not a star, but it’s a make or breaker. Unless it complements the entrée, is compatible with the other dishes and has a pleasing texture, it can ruin the meal. The first two requirements aren’t much concern, especially if the gravy base is the juice rendered by the meat. The last can be more difficult. For example a little fat from the roast can give it a silky texture, just as a pat of butter smooths a sauce, but too much can cause it to break, or separate, making it appear, and taste, greasy. Also, improper introduction or cooking of the thickening agent can make gravy lumpy and unappetizing.

Both problems can be easily solved. A large amount of excess fat can be removed by slightly chilling the rendered juice and spooning it off, a light film by gently drifting strips of paper towel across the top of the reserved juice, 4-5 strips usually suffice. To avoid lumpy gravy, dissolve the thickener in cold liquid before adding it to the saucepan and whish constantly until desired density is reached.

I discuss these problems, specifically different ways of thickening and how to avoid errors, in my post of Nov. 20,2014 and in depth generally for both sauces and gravies, with many recipes and variations in my book Savvy Sauces and Gravies available at dinnerwithjoy.com/books products/ and Amazon. It’s also part of my book Food Facts for Millennials available at the above sites and summarized in my post of June 7, 2018. I deal with the subject in detail in next week’s post Nov. 16, 2023, and include advice on using pan sauces for leftovers.

Carving a turkey is not difficult. There are 2 main methods, one traditional and the other more recent, either way the first move is to remove the wing and leg, with thigh, by slicing through the joints, on one side to give clear access to the breast. Then either slice the meat off the breast parallel the breast bone, in clean strokes or make one slice through the lobe along the breastbone and another along the bottom perpendicular to the backbone, removing the entire lobe, which can then be sliced crosswise. The thigh meat can be sliced separately. Repeat on the other side. 

I do this in the roasting pan, but you may need to move the bird to a board for the second method of carving. For this it’s easier to mound at least the first serving of stuffing on the serving platter before you start to carve.

Stripping the carcass sounds more labor intensive than it is. (See post for Nov. 28, 2019) Set out a plate, size dependent on the amount of meat left on the carcass, and cut, or pull the meat off the bones, putting it on the plate. Toss the bones pieces of cart ledge, joints, and any pieces of skin in a large pot as you go. When finished stripping, cover the pot contents with water, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer about 2 hours. This will make soup or stew base. When it is finished, strain and store in plastic containers with lids and freeze. Do not skim it. The fat will form a hard layer on top which keeps the broth fresh and can easily be scraped off before thawing for use.

Tip for freezing stuffing. Store stuffing in plastic containers with lids and cover with a few tablespoons of the broth. This prevents the stuffing from drying out and locks in flavor and texture.

To freeze the meat, I divide it into piles, small, for soups and chilies, medium, for stews and casseroles, and large, for pan sautés or sauced dishes.  I use plastic wrap to seal it into size-labeled 2-portion packages, and freeze the packages in bags. Depending on the turkey and the number of guests I served, I usually count on having the basis for 10-15, 2-serving meals on tap. It’s a real stress saver in the weeks ahead and a great reward for having cooked a big bird.

I do love leftovers and I’ve written many posts focused on turkey recipes over the years, each discussing a different aspect of transforming leftovers into delicious, fresh appearing meals. There’s no excuse for re-runs or boredom, or reason not to enjoy the leftovers for months. As I said turkey freezes very well. 

For those who want a preview of leftover recipes before buying their turkey and can’t wait for the Nov. 23 post, which will include specific uses for different sized pieces of meat, here’s a list of links to recipes like Lasagna, Stuffed Portabellas, Pizzas, Turkey with Mushrooms in Creamy Wine Sauce, Cranberry Salad with Nuts and Feta, Ravioli with Lime-Balsamic Vinaigrette……….

LINKS

Dec. 21, 2011        Nov. 15, 2012     Nov. 19, 2012           Nov.29, 2012         Dec. 2, 2013         Nov. 20, 2014   Nov.27, 2014      Nov. 18, 2015        Nov. 3, 2016    Nov.24, 2016       Nov.23, 2017         

FESTIVE SIDE DISHES TO MAKE AHEAD

Anyone who has read this blog knows that I’m a huge fan of dishes which can be prepared ahead, stored and finished for serving. I’m not referring to commercial frozen or packaged foods, because I’m also a fan of ‘from scratch ‘cooking. It’s healthier, having fewer preservatives, especially sodium, tastes fresher, makes a better presentation and is usually less expensive, particularly when you have time to take advantage of sales on ingredients.

However, for me, the biggest reward for preparing dishes in advance is the way it relieves stress. There’s time to follow the recipes, the knowledge that they are ready and waiting is calming as the occasion nears and having them allows you to relax and socialize with your guests. Another huge benefit to dishes which can be made ahead and finished before serving is that, by nature, they’re transportable.

Au Gratins are leaders in this category because the main dish is always cooked first and then the toppings added and browned.  Gratins also keep and freeze well. I think that’s due to the sauce leaving less exposed surface area. The only problem was, since most of the sauces were dairy based, Gratins didn’t fit some dietary regulations but now, with all the plant based milks available, they can. 

Some of the recipe suggested in the linked posts are prepped with ingredients mixed and need only a few minutes cooking on site to be ready for table. Others are cooked almost to finish and then finished as reheated before serving. Both these and the Gratins are easily made ahead and transported, if needed, to the serving site.

This becomes important at this time of year, because Thanksgiving is returning to its roots. It’s a weekday holiday, and most people work. So hosting this day’s dinner is hard for one person. More and more, it’s becoming a communally prepared feast, which gives it a sense of unity and sharing in keeping with the spirit of the day-actually a nice change. 

So most falls, I write a post on Portable Holiday Side Dishes. When I checked past posts, to avoid repeating myself, I was shocked to see I how many recipes are on file. I wanted to give you guys plenty of options, but there were too many recipes for one post. I decided to do as I’ve done with Valentine’s Day, and provide a linked listing of the posts, with their contents, for you to explore. Below that I added a few new recipes. If you’re interested in stuffing recipes go to  Nov. 19, 2020. Sweet potato recipes are on Nov. 12, 2020.

POSTS

1)Nov.13, 2014EASY THANKSGIVING SIDES: Sweet Potatoes Anna. Cauliflower au Gratin, Sweet Pea Pods with Mushrooms, Green Beans with Onions

2)Nov. 10, 2016–PORTABLE VEGETABLE AND SALAD RECIPES FOR THANKSGIVING: Spinach Pie, Corn Pudding, Balsamic Brussels Sprouts with Walnuts and/or Bacon, Cauliflower Polynesian, Cheesy Squash and Kale, Baked Acorn Squash Halves with Apple, Maple, Nut Topping or Maple, Chipotle Glaze plus 4 salad recipes

3)Dec. 15, 2016–23 EASY SIDE DISHES TO PERK UP HOLIDAY DINNERS: Sweet Potato Cranberry Casserole, Potato and Carrot Bake, Sweet and Sour Carrots, Brandied Carrots, Cauliflower with Raisins, Southwest Cauliflower, Cauliflower with Bok Choy, Quickie Lemony Brussels Sprouts, Minted Snow Peas, Orange Glazed Green Beans, Green Beans Genovese, Green Beans with Garlic, Lemony Sautéed Escarole, Kale and Onions, Broccoli and Daikon, Spinach Stuffed Mushrooms, Stuffed Eggplant, Fennel with Onions, Kohlrabi Gratin, Chayote with Scallions

4)Nov.6, 2017–AU GRATINS ARE GOLDEN:  Boursin Stuffed Mushrooms, Roasted Potato, Garlic and Leek Gratin, Gratin Douphinois,  Fennel, Tomato and Garlic Gratin, Gratin topping plus 2 entrée and 1 dessert recipes.

5)Nov. 15, 2018PORTABLE HOLIDAY SIDE DISHESKale au Gratin, Turnips au Gratin, Two Potato au Gratin, Mashed Rutabaga, Marbled Mashed Potatoes, Tipsy Sweet Potatoes, Spiked Carrots, Green Beans with Pecans and Blue Cheese, Broccoli with Cranberries, Apples and Almonds

6) Nov. 11, 2021EASY, FESTIVE THNKSGIVING SIDES: Spiked Sweet Potatoes, Spinach, Kale, Broccoli or Rabe Sautéed in Oil with Garlic, Stove Top Pumpkin Quarters

RECIPES

Turnips Au GratinServes 4– From Try Foods Intl. Inc.
1 ½ lb. turnips- peeled and thinly sliced*
1/3 cup turnip greens reserved and chopped*
¼ cup finely diced onion
¼ cup heavy cream
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper
3 Tbs. seasoned breadcrumbs
Layer a quarter of the turnip slices in the bottom if a greased casserole. Sprinkle with 1 Tbs. EACH onion, cream and cheese, 1/3 of the greens and seasonings to taste. Repeat layers 3 times, topping with remaining cream, cheese and breadcrumbs. Cover and bake 350 deg. 30 min. Uncover and bake 15 min. more until golden. If making ahead, do the second baking before serving.
*Kohlrabi can be used in place of turnips but remember they lose about half their weight in peeling so buy an adjusted amount.

Two Potato Au GratinServes 6– From Home Journal Cookbook
1 ½ lb. sweet potatoes-peeled and in ¼ inch slices
1 ½ lb. white potatoes in peeled and in ¼ inch slices
2 scallions trimmed and sliced thin
4 Tbs. flour
2 cups skim milk
Salt and pepper
1 Tbs. butter
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Boil potatoes in water for about 5 min. until crisp tender, drain. Spoon with scallions into a greased 8 inch square casserole and dot with butter. Combine flour and milk in a saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly, until thickened, about 5 min. Season to taste and pour over vegetables. Top with cheese. Bake in a 325 deg. oven 20-25 min, until golden and bubbly. If making ahead do the baking just before serving.

Southwestern Corn: Serves 4 —
2 cups corn kernels-frozen or fresh
1 Bell pepper in 1 x ½ inch strips
¼ cup chopped onion
2 Tbs. softened butter or margarine
Cook pepper and onion in butter until soft and coated. Add corn and pepper and cook over low heat until corn is tender, about 10 min. Serve or chill and  reheat before serving.

Parmesan Roasted Vegetables: Serves 4
1 ½ cups cauliflower florets
1 cup broccoli florets with stalks cut in ¼ inch pieces
1 red Bell pepper cut in ¼ inch strips
8 oz. red potatoes cut in 1 inch pieces-about 2 medium
1 Tbs. oil
2 clove garlic- minced
1 tsp. dried basil or rosemary
¼ tsp. pepper
2 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese
Toss vegetables in a large bowl with 3 Tbs. water. Add all other ingredients but Parmesan and toss to mix. Spray a 15 x 10 inch rimmed baking sheet with non-stick spray. Spread vegetables on pan and roast in a preheated 375 deg. oven for 35-40 min. until just tender, stirring once or twice. Sprinkle with Parmesan, toss lightly, and roast for 10 min. more to desired doneness. If transporting, chill to store, bring to room temperature, toss with Parmesan as placed in serving dish and use final roasting to reheat.

OTHER FALL FRUIT DESSERTS

After last week’s post, with delicious pumpkin recipes and links to lots of yummy pumpkin desserts, pies and more, it’s time to stop and ask: “What if you’re tired of pumpkin, or don’t want a spicy pie after a full meal, or just don’t like pumpkin? Well, there are many other wonderful fruit desserts to choose from because, believe it or not, fall has more fruit crops than spring-apples, grapes, pears, cranberries and, of course, all kinds of nuts.

Below is a recipe sampling for desserts using each of these fruits with links to posts giving information and more recipes attached to each category heading.  I have also referred to three former posts, which deal with the general subject of fall fruit desserts. Their links are:  Dec.12, 2012,   Nov.8, 2013   and Nov. 7, 2019. 

The first recipe here, Pecan Pie is special for me. I love the pie, but only found it in New England and the South, never in the Mid-Atlantic States. If I wanted it, I had to make it and doing so taught me that I, with little experience, could adjust a recipe, altering a dish to taste as I wanted it to. So often the pie I was served had gelatinous center with few nuts. The one I created had a light custard center full of chopped nuts. It gave me the courage to go on and carve my own cooking adventures.

I include the Apple, Raisin, Walnut Pie because it’s a close substitute, taste wise, for the Thanksgiving traditional Mince Pie. I don’t know if mincemeat is even sold anymore. Heavily laden with suet, it was one of the first foods to go when we became health-conscious about diet. I doubt if younger people even know what suet is. Still Mince Pie has a flavor long associated with Thanksgiving, and it’s nice to keep traditions alive, not to mention this pie is delicious-I think better than mince.

In addition, I’m including my pastry recipe. The biggest secret is ICE water, not cold—ICE.  I often substitute ¼ cup wheat pastry flour for the white. It adds taste and crispness to the cooked crust. Finally, when baking pie shells for custard pies, especially if they’re refrigerated, I use an egg, or even a cream or milk wash on the dough before baking. It helps to waterproof t and prevent sogginess.

Above all, as you read this, if you don’t see a recipe you like, do click on the links. There are many more wonderful desserts in the posts. And many options for the coming holidays, not just Thanksgiving.

RECIPES

My Crust Recipe for single crust pie
1 cup flour
1/3 cup shortening- Crisco
3 Tbs. + if needed ICE water
In a deep bowl, cut shortening into flour with 2 knives until pea sized crumbs form. Add the water a Tbs. at a time mixing until dough holds together. Form into a ball cover and chill 30 min. Roll on a floured surface until slightly larger than the pan. Line the pan with the dough, cutting off or tucking excess under and crimping edges. Crust can be frozen, chilled or baked ahead according to pie directions.
NOTE: Tis will do 1 crust plus a lattice top if rolled thin. For 2 crusts increase flour to 1 ½ cups and shortening t0 ½ cup.

My Pecan Pie: Serves 6-8
¼ cup butter
2/3 cup brown sugar
3 eggs well beaten
¾ cup dark corn syrup
1 tsp. vanilla
Dash salt
1 cup pecan halves-divided 1/3 cup reserved
Crust for pie shell
Chop 2/3 cup pecan halves. Cream together the butter, brown sugar and salt, add the syrup, incorporate well, then fold in the eggs and chopped nuts blending evenly. Pour into the pie shell and use the reserved nuts to decorate the top. Bake in a 450 deg. oven 10 min. and reduce heat to 350 deg. for 30-35 min. more until a knife inserted comes out clean. Cool. Pie will puff then fall slightly. Serve on day of baking or store covered overnight.

Apple, Raisin, Walnut Pie: Serves 6-8
1 ½ cups chopped cooking apples
2 cups raisins
3 cups apple cider
1 cup sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 Tbs. lemon juice+ ½ tsp. zest
2Tbs.butter
½ tsp. salt
3 Tbs. cornstarch
½ cup chopped walnuts.
Double crust recipe or buy 15 oz. package of 2 dough rounds
NOTE; I like a thin crust, so this will allow for some extra, especially if making a lattice top. Don’t use over a heaping ½ cup shortening. Store left over dough chilled and use within 10 days, or roll and freeze. Line pie pan.
Dissolve the cornstarch in ¼ cup of the cider; put all the other ingredients except the walnuts in a pot and heat to boiling. Stir in cornstarch mix, and simmer, stirring until thickened. Stir in nuts. Pour into bottom crust. Top with top crust, well vented, or lattice top. Bake at450 deg.for10 min. then at 30-35 min at 350 deg. Cool before slicing.
To prepare in advance; the cooked filling can be kept chilled, in a plastic container for several days and then poured into the shell and topped before baking. The pie pan can be lined and the top crust dough kept chilled in plastic wrap for several days as well.

APPLES:  Nov. 2, 2017,   Sept. 21, 2023

French Apple Pie : Serves 6-8
3-4 lb. cooking apples-peeled, cored in ¼ inch slices
¼ cup melted butter
¼ cup sugar
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
Successively layer the apple slices so they lay flat, in the pie shell; a circular pattern looks best for presentation. Sprinkle each layer with some sugar and cinnamon. When the crust is filled, pour the melted butter over all, and then garn garnish with sugar and cinnamon. Bake in a preheated 450 deg. oven 10 min, then at 350 deg. for 30-40 min. until apples are tender and crust is crisp. Best done serving day, but can be done the day before. Store at room temperature.

Grandmother’s Sour Cream Apple Cake: Serves 12 +
5 cups peeled, cored and sliced tart apples
¼ cup butter
½ cup sour cream
1 cup sugar
1 lemon- zested and juiced
2 Tbs. flour
½ cup chopped almonds + ½ cup toasted, slivered almonds
8 eggs separated
½ tsp. salt
Sugar, cinnamon and dry bread crumbs for garnish
Whipped cream for serving—optional
Cook the apples with the butter in a covered skillet over low heat until soft, stirring occasionally. Add the next 4 ingredients and the egg yolks, lightly beaten, to the pan and cook until thickened. Cool. Whip egg whites with salt until stiff and fold into apple mixture. Spread batter 1 inch thick in a large pan or baking dish and sprinkle top with sugar, cinnamon, bread crumbs and slivered almonds. Bake at 325 deg. for 45 min. or until the cake is firm. Can be served hot, but is best chilled with whipped cream.

CRANBERRIES   Nov. 30, 017

Cranberry Crisp: Serves 6
12 oz. fresh cranberries=2 cups
1/3 cup sugar
½ cup chopped walnuts
1 egg
½ cup of flour
½ cup sugar
3/4 cup butter- melted
Lightly grease a 9 inch pie plate. Fill with berries, top with 1/3 cup sugar and nuts. Beat egg until foamy, beat in butter, flour and remaining sugar until batter is smooth. Pour over berries. Bake in a preheated
325 deg. oven until browned, about 45 min. This is best served warm with ice cream or whipped cream.
NOTE: This can be stored, before baking, the berries in the pie plate, covered, and the batter in a container in the refrigerator for about 3 days. Combine and bake. Probably can also be reheated in the microwave the day after baking.

Cranberry Orange Walnut Ice Cream: Serves 6-Very quick and easy to make.
2 cups cranberries
¾ cup sugar
1 orange –quartered, seeds removed
½ cup chopped, toasted walnuts
1 pint vanilla ice cream- softened
Coarsely chop berries and orange, with rind. Stir in sugar and blend fruit mix, making sure the orange rind is pulverized, add walnuts and stir into softened ice cream. Pour into a mold and freeze until firm. Unmold and serve garnished with cranberries and walnuts. Or spoon ice cream into a freezer container; a couple of hours before serving fill a decorative freezer-proof bowl with individual scoops of ice cream and spoon them into dessert dishes at table
*This ice cream recipe is packed with fruit. I love it this way but some people, especially children, may prefer it if the quantity of vanilla ice cream is doubled in proportion to the fruit. Keeps frozen as long as commercial product.

PEARS:     Nov.16, 017,    Dec. 3, 2020

Pear Kuchen: Serves 8-10
Pastry for a 9”spring form pan or a 1 crust pie-if home-made add 2 Tbs. sugar to the dough See recipe above
1 quart canned pear halves = (2) 16 oz. cans
3 eggs
½ cup sugar
½ cup cream or fruit juice
Line the bottom and sides of a greased spring form pan with the pastry. Drain fruit and arrange cut side down in pan. Beat eggs with sugar and liquid until light and pour over the fruit. Bake at 400 deg. for 10 min. and then at 350 deg. until custard is set about 30 min. Sprinkle with slivered toasted almonds or cool and scatter chopped almond brittle over the top. Serve with whipped cream.

Wine Poached PearsServes 8
8 Bosc pears—peeled but stems left on
2 cups cranberry juice
1 cup lighter red wine such as red zinfandel or Pisano
1cup water
¼ cup sugar
1cinnnamon stick
Put everything but pears in a large pot and heat to dissolve sugar, bring to a simmer and add pears. Cover and continue simmering, turning occasionally until pears are tender 15-20 min. Cool in syrup still turning to keep color even. Can be made a couple of days ahead, but chill fruit separate from syrup to keep color 

even. Gently re-heat syrup and serve around pears.

GRAPES: Oct. 29, 2020

Grape Pie: Serves 8-10-From- https://www.tasteofhome.com/recipes/ruby-grape-pie/
Pastry for a 2 crust pie  See recipe above.
4 cups (2 lbs.) seedless red grapes-halved
2/3 cup sugar
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
3 Tbs. cornstarch
2 Tbs. lemon juice
1 Tbs. lemon zest
2 Tbs. butter
Combine grapes, sugar and cinnamon in a saucepan, toss to coat and marinate 15 min. Add cornstarch, lemon juice and zest, bring to a boil, stir for 2 min. or until thickened. Pour into a pastry lined 9 inch pie plate, dot with butter and cover with top crust. Seal, trim, flute and cut steam holes in top. Bake at 425 deg. for 20 min. then at 350 deg. for 30-35 min. or until golden brown. Cool on a wire rack.

Grapes in Sweet Sour Cream: Serves 4
2 lb. seedless grapes –red makes a better presentation
1 cup sour cream
¼ cup sugar- or to taste
¼ tsp. cinnamon
Remove grapes from stems, wash and dry well. Stir the cream, sugar and cinnamon together and taste to adjust seasonings. Gently stir in the grapes and chill well. Serve in compotes. Can be transported separately and mixed before serving. Cream can be mixed a day or two in advance.