GREAT GRAVY
It’s almost Thanksgiving, otherwise known as National Turkey Day, and that means a lot of gravy will be made. There are records of how many turkeys are consumed, but I’ve never heard an estimate of how much gravy is prepared. It would be a lot, that’s for sure and for some cooks, especially the novice ones, making gravy is the most traumatic chore of the holiday.
Actually, the idea that it’s difficult to make gravy is one of those kitchen myths. It’s really quite simple, but there are a few guidelines to follow which guarantee success. First let’s understand the definition of “gravy” as opposed to “sauce’. Both are fluids served with a featured ingredient to enhance its flavor and/or texture and both can be made from a base of ”roux” or “slurry”, which I will describe in a minute.
The difference is that gravy is created from the essence derived from cooking the main ingredient of a dish, be it animal or vegetable. Italians are correct in calling what we refer to as Tomato Sauce, Tomato Gravy. It’s made from the pulp or meat of tomatoes. A sauce is constructed by mixing entirely separate ingredients from the main one. Hence gravies are mainly associated with the entrée, whereas sauces appear with every course, cover a far wider range and can be made in many ways other than the basic roux and slurry.
In my book, Savvy Sauces and Gravies, I delve into the differences between the two. I fully explore the many ways to make sauces, describe in detail the classic Five Mother Sauces of French cuisine and their offspring down the third generation, and give tips on shortcuts in cooking them and on easily creating your own sauces. This is a handy ability to have, especially when entertaining, and since it’s the season for entertaining, I’ll plan on discussing sauces soon.
However, this posting is about gravy, so we’ll get back on topic. The simplest way to outline proportions and method is to quote from my book.
“Since gravy and many basic sauces share the same methods of thickening, learning the basic proportions of the formulas seems a good place to start. Though tapioca and arrowroot are often mentioned in older recipes, the most commonly used thickening agents are flour and cornstarch and can be substituted for the other two, usually in quoted proportion.
FLOUR and CORNSTARCH are, for the most part, interchangeable when making sauces. The major difference is that cornstarch needs only half the amount of flour. Otherwise, the other ingredient proportions, the measurements, the cooking method and timing are the same and the results nearly identical. I find cornstarch makes the finished sauce clearer and therefore prefer it for light gravy such as Au Jus and light sauces like raison, dessert ones or ones whisked up in a deglazed pan. On the other hand, I think it tends to become glutinous after refrigeration and thins when reheated. I prefer flour for stews and gravies where leftovers are anticipated.
There are two ways to thicken with flour or cornstarch; by making SLURRY or a ROUX. Both require following standard formulas, but are really quite simple to do. Directions for both follow.
!) SLURRY is made by dissolving a measured amount of thickener in a measured amount of cold liquid which is then poured into a specific amount of hot liquid to be thickened. The whole is maintained at a low boil, stirring constantly, until desired thickness is achieved-usually about 3 min. Slurries are used for making gravies, clear sauces and thickening stews and soups.
2) ROUX is usually made with flour. A measured amount of butter or margarine is heated to foam then a measured amount of thickener is stirred in off heat, to make a smooth paste. Quickly add a measured amount of cold liquid, whisking to avoid lumps. This can then be added to a main body of a dish and stirred as above to desired consistency. It can also be made into a sauce itself and with more liquid be heated to a simmer and stirred constantly until thick enough, about 3 min.
SLURRY: A few simple rules for making one:
1) The dissolving fluid should be room temperature and at least twice the amount of the thickener-for example 1 Tbs. flour to 2 Tbs. liquid
2) Be sure the powdered thickener is fully dissolved
3) Remember to include the amount of dissolving fluid in the total amount to be thickened when calculating the quantity of thickening agent needed.
4) For stews, gravies. soups etc. the base liquid should be skimmed of as much fat as possible or the end product can become heavy, glue-like and separate. Cooling the liquid before adding the slurry, if time allows, lets the fat congeal and be easily skimmed. This aids the incorporation
of the slurry reducing the chance of lumping.
5) Return to the heat, bring to a low boil and stir until thick as wanted, about 3 min
.
PROPORTIONS:
THIN: 1 Tbs. flour or ½ Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid= Soup
*MEDIUM: 2 Tbs. flour or 1 Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid = Gravies, Casserole
Sauces, stews, Gratins.
THICK: 3 Tbs. flour or 1 ½ Tbs. cornstarch per 1 cup liquid=Soufflés, accompanying
Dessert sauces.
ROUX: Rules for the Basic White Sauce
1) Be sure the butter or margarine are foaming. Then remove from heat at once.
2) The blending of fat and thickener must be a smooth paste
3) The liquid should be room temperature or below when added to the paste. Add it all at
once.and whisk or stir vigorously to make sure it’s all incorporated before heating it to
avoid lumps.
4) Stir constantly until it reaches a simmer and achieves desired thickness, about 3 min
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PROPORTIONS:
THIN: 1 Tbs. flour or ½ Tbs. cornstarch + 1 Tbs. butter per 1 cup liquid = Soups
*MEDIUM: 2 Tbs. flour or 1 Tbs. cornstarch +2 Tbs. butter per 1 cup liquid =Stews,
Gravies, Gratins, Sauces
THICK: 4 Tbs. flour or 2 Tbs. cornstarch + 4 Tbs. butter per 1 ½ cup liquid =
Soufflés, accompanying dessert sauces
* Denotes most frequently used consistency with the most cook friendly variations.
TIP: 1 Tbs. = 3 tsp.
Tips and guidelines for success:
When making gravy from roux:
1) Use both a wooden spoon and a whisk. The paste made of fat and thickener must look and feel smooth. Sifting the flour in might help.A wooden spoon is best for this job. The paste will clump when the fluid is added and quick whisking breaks it up. Slow constant stirring with the spoon as the gravy thickens make sure that the contents don’t stick to the bottom and sides of the pot during cooking.
2) Making the roux and adding the fluid are easiest done off the heat. When the paste seems incorporated into the fluid, the pot can be returned to medium heat.
3) Be sure the fluid added to the roux is as free of fat as possible. Too much fat content gives an oily look, an “off” taste and makes the gravy separate.
When making gravy from slurry:
1)Using slurry to thicken a gravy, especially when making a large amount is simpler and easier than roux. Only a spoon is needed.
2) Although skimming the fat is advisable, if the meat used is very lean or well trimmed, not always necessary. The natural rending can replace the fat needed for a roux. Either way one simply dissolves the thickening agent in a measured amount of fluid adds it to the base in the pot and stirs until thickened.
3) The base fluid can still be hot, though simmering or boiling will result in clumping because it cooks too fast.
General guidelines:
1) The thickening agent will make a ripping sound as it cooks, when the spoon is run around the pot sides. The sound stops when capacity is reached. This is as thick as the gravy will get.
2) Overcooking will thin the gravy. For this reason it’s usually made just before serving. If it’s made ahead, rather than keep it warm, allow it to cool, but stir occasionally to avoid congealing. Reheat on medium-low, stirring with a whisk to prevent clumping
3) Always remember to adjust seasonings before serving.
4) I use just the turkey essence for my gravy. I ladle it into a 1 quart measuring cup, allowing it to cool and skim the fat as the bird rends. When I have a full cup of skimmed broth, I pour it into a pot, add the correct amount of flour and begin to make the gravy.
Troubleshooting:
1)To remove lumps, briskly whisk, use an immersion blender or an electric mixer.
2) To remove excess fat, chill or skim with a spoon or by running a paper towel across the surface. Whisk to incorporate the solids.
3) If over cooking or re-heating thins the gravy, allow it to cool, sift in more flour, stirring as you do and repeat the thickening process by cooking for about 3 min. This may blunt seasoning so be sure to check taste.
4) The best way to avoid trauma, or errors, is to practice. Make a few dishes requiring gravy before the big day. It will give you confidence.
MAJOR STEP—RELAX and enjoy!!
Happy Thanksgiving to all!!
