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Sep 24

Chefs' Tips for 2020 Cooking

CHEFS’ TIPS FOR 2020 COOKING

Let’s face it, quarantine may be lifted, but as long as social distancing persists, food shopping is an increasingly time consuming chore. The trend is growing to shop for longer periods. I spoke with the mother of toddler triplets recently, a lawyer, who has shopping down to once a month. It takes a day, but that’s better than 4 half-days. However, she admits it took some time and self-training to work it out.

The sub title of this blog is Kitchen $centse and its motto is ‘Creating wonderful; scents, while saving cents by using sense.’ The first statement is the goal of every cooking blog. I truly believe the second is best achieved by following the 3 steps in my proven Diet for the Food Dollar plan as outlined in the book How to Control Food Bills. The third, using good, common sense,’ kitchen sense’ applies to all culinary endeavors from menu planning, as illustrated in Dinners With Joy, (See December 20, 2018), to how to shop as discussed in connection with controlling food bills, to how and what to choose as defined in Food Facts for Millennials (See May 23, 2019) and ,of course, how to handle the food once it’s home.

This includes storing and preserving food, mainly nowadays by freezing( see posts Sept.13, 2018 and Sept. 20, 2018), learning efficient ways to use your appliances, finding short cuts to working with food ( posts July 9, 2012, June 16, 2019) and profiting by your experiences as well as being willing to listen to the advice of others.

Evidently Bon Appetit magazine also feels strongly about this. Their September issue features an article titled Quarantine Kitchen. They recognized most food professionals have to content themselves, for the duration, with cooking for just their families, in their homes, using products they, personally, had to shop for in local markets and pay for out of pocket. It’s been a unique situation and the magazine seized the opportunity to canvas many of these people as to what they had learned and asked them to share any insights.

The responses surprised me in two ways; they were distinctly ‘uncheffy’, tailored for home cooks and I felt quite proud because I have been using, as well as preaching many of them in this blog, for years. The article is worth a read, but I do want to discuss a few of the more valuable pieces of advice here.

Paramount is getting food safely stored as soon as possible to prevent aging. Freezing is the fastest way to do this and the best way to preserve freshness.

1) Ground meat needs special attention because it has more surface areas which spoil quicker than a single piece. The article recommends always having a 1 lb. package on hand. I advise freezing it in 4 portions which allows for individual servings and/or divided use.

A) Try ground pork, lamb, and sausage as well as beef and poultry, opening a variety of recipe options
B) When buying Valu-Packs, I use 1 b. to make and bake tiny meatballs. Stored bagged, they can be added frozen to a sauce or quickly microwaved and served with a dipping sauce.
2) Freezing produce is covered in the links provided above but one chef advised an old Italian trick for freezing leafy vegetables. Italians are focused on seasonal vegetables. Living there, I loved the freshness but as an American, missed non-seasonal options. Then I noticed the green goods grocer sold tennis-sized balls of trimmed, blanched, drained spinach and kale which I could wrap and freeze. Problem solved! It’s simple to do at home and great way to deal with leafy vegetables on sale or in valu-packs.
A) Potatoes are too watery to freeze well domestically unless mashed but I often opt for the 10 lb. bag. Separate the ones of suitable size for baking. Bake and stuff but hold the second baking. Wrap, freeze and bag them, then simply garnish and bake for a quick, elegant side. Do not microwave-they don’t crisp.
3) Grains freeze well and the chefs advice cooking and bagging extra to have on hand.
Fresh Produce in the refrigerator is still subject to the FIFO law-First in=first out but there are exceptions.
1) A head of cabbage will last longer than a bunch of fresh herbs, apples longer than pears. So check often and use good sense.
A) Get to know the more durable produce. Cabbage for example can do so much more than most people realize, steaks, stir-fries, grilled sides. Fennel is delicious both raw and cooked.
2) Don’t simply discard. If the herbs are wilted, blanch and puree them. Make into a pesto or freeze in ice trays and bag the cubes to use as flavorings. 1 cube=2 Tbs. Most of the people who reported this side effect also best viagra pills had dibetes, heart disease, high cholesterol, high blood pressure and diabetes in a group of more than 4,500 men. You also save travel expenses by getting online medical help. viagra pills price The muscle pains felt will be removed with the therapy sessions are performed because of muscle injuries acquired and treatment recommended by the doctor. viagra canada pharmacies http://cute-n-tiny.com/category/cute-animals/page/22/ Try not to give the name a chance to cialis canada cheap trick you: CFS is significantly more than just being fatigued. Pears and other fruits can be used in baked goods or cooked pureed and frozen as can vegetables. They are good sauce bases and don’t forget any vegetable can make pesto.
3) The best way to extend the life of fresh vegetables, beans, snow peas, celery stalks and especially those with roots, carrots, radishes, scallions, is to store them immersed in water not in the crisper.

Dated refrigerated products are also subject to FIFO, but that too has changed. Chefs used to be all about pitching anything over date, now they advise caution and testing. The white coating on the Parmesan can be ground in and the cheese frozen. A crust forming on sour cream merits inspection. Perhaps it can be scraped off, the remaining cream repackaged for quick use.

1) The best tools to determine spoilage are your nose, and dipping a finger-tip in for a small taste. If these tests say O.K.-go with it.
2) Have a few recipes to use ‘iffy’ products handy, rather than letting them expire while you seek ways to use them.

Find a multi-purpose sauce to perk up dishes and other sauces which suits your cooking style and tastes. It may be based on tomatoes, peppers, anchovies, there’s even a good, hot eggplant one. Just be sure your family likes it and it can be added to or passed with recipes to give them a bit of ‘newnesss’.

Beans are indigenous to every cuisine and always there to provide an economic, flavorful, satisfying meal but, news flash, they should always be cooked in a broth flavored to fit the finished dish.

1) People claim beans take too much time but no longer. Instant Pots and Slow Cookers changed that but the stove top method has changed too.
A) No long soaking required. Rinse the beans and simmer them in the flavored fluid of choice. It will take 2 or more hrs. depending on the type bean. So take that zoom meeting, cook it after dinner or on the weekend. Beans are better the next day.

2) If you want a quicker method, first hard boil the beans in their liquid for 6-10 min., depending on size of bean, turn off heat and allow to sit covered for about 30 min. to expand them. Return to a boil, then simmer for 30-45 min. more-continue with prepping the finished dish.

It’s important to know your appliances, utensils, and to take advantage of cooking tips especially how to make objects multi-task.

1) Put the roast on the second to the bottom shelf and a sheet of vegetables on the bottom shelf. It’s a lower temperature for the veggies, but they make it up in time. Put any vegetable side dishes or bake potatoes next to the meat pan.
2) Once an oven or other appliance is ready, don’t turn it off after one task. Bake that cake. Boiling a vegetable? Throw in a couple of eggs for eating during the week. Use the hot burner to sauté another vegetable or toast nuts.
3) To avoid being burned when checking the temperature of the contents of a pot while cooking, put the stem of an instant read thermometer through the openings in a slotted spoon, and lower it until you can get an accurate reading.
A) Use corn holders to secure round objects like tomatoes, onions and lemons, for slicing
B) Chopsticks are handy in the kitchen to remove food from the toaster, to rearrange food on a platter or roasting vegetables and to easily pit cherries, cut a small “X” in the bottom. Remove the stem, insert the narrow end of the chopstick and push the pit out.
C) To quickly chop nuts, put them in a plastic bag and pound then with the bottom of a can.
D) To coarsely chop herbs, place them in a glass and snip with a scissors.
One of my favorite suggestions: If at all possible, grow your own herbs. I grow them in pots and in the fall, I either bring them in (several last well in a heated house and a sunny kitchen) or I lightly chop them and freeze them in ice trays with a bit of oil and water and use as described above. I love having fresh herbs available and it’s a budget saving too.

However, my favorite suggestion of all is ‘Give a kid a wok’ I have long advocated cooking with kids and written books on the subject. Children love creating, especially when their efforts yield fast delicious rewards and learn quickly. Cooking with them is an excellent bonding tool and teaches them useful life skills.

A) Go further and get the whole family involved. If you can’t enjoy dinner together in your favorite restaurant, bring the desire for companionship into your kitchen. Get everyone together to help make meals, or at least to record the effort for fun. Sharing the work, the rewards and the memories can be priceless connections. Don’t miss this opportunity. For recipes modified to make this a happy experience for all, especially novices see the May 28, 2020 posting on my book Can I help?

Sep 17

EASY MEALS FOR THE NEW NORMAL

If spring is the season for re-growth, fall is the one for re-scheduling. Schools open, after school activities with associated activities are organized and business unveil projects for the coming year. It’s a time of hectic scheduling, with appointments often set for evening. Dinners were needed which can be quickly consumed yet are stable enough to hold up for separate serving times.

However, this is 2020. Schools are open according to districts. After school activities and related organizations are suspended while most business group promotions are on hold. Families have members who have returned to work and others working remotely. As a result schedules are uneven. Dinners need to be enticing but quickly ready when the family comes together at day’s end. The recipes should be simple enough that family members can begin prep, without hazardous cooking methods which could lead to fat spattering or boil overs, yet with minimal mess and easy clean up.

Actually in the current situation, this approach to dinner can help the family dynamic. Communal meal prep from start to finish, first the work and then the tasty shared reward can be a bonding experience. It provides a common interest and ready conversation topic. It can also help young people acquire cooking skills they will need later. Below are 10 recipes which fill the bill. Most only need a starch and a vegetable side, some only a salad and one not even that. With all the choices on the market today, fresh, frozen, canned and boxed, you’re sure to find selections to please the family and fit your time frame. If you want to see more, or learn about getting the family together in the kitchen, I have a book Can I help?, described in the May 28, 2020 posting and for sale on our books products page.

RECIPES
Apricot Glazed Pork Loin
Look for these Pork Loins in the commercially prepackaged section of the Meat Counter. Usually they bear a brand name. Shadybrook Farms makes a turkey tenderloin that is the same size as this type of pork loin and can substitute.
(2) 1 lb. Pork Tenderloins – Commercially prepared in plastic sleeves*
(1) 12oz jar apricot preserves
¼ cup Balsamic vinegar
1Tbs Teriyaki sauce
3 tsp. minced fresh ginger
2 tsp. minced garlic
1 tsp. Tabasco sauce
Kosher salt
Ground pepper
1 tsp. salt – divided
1 tsp. pepper – divided
Remove wrappers from pork and pat dry. Rub each with ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp pepper. Heat grill or broiler. While heating grill or broiler, melt jam in a small saucepan with vinegar, Teriyaki sauce, Tabasco, garlic and ginger. Brush meat with glaze and place on a foil lined pan or on grill and cook 4 inches from heat source 10-15 min for the grill, 15 – 20 min. under the broiler, basting and turning every few minutes, until internal temperature reaches 150 degrees. Allow to rest, tented under foil 5 min., before carving. Slice meat and serve topped with a drizzle of glaze and be sure to pass any remaining glaze warmed.

I wouldn’t advise attempting to prepare and freeze these lions ahead, but leftovers should freeze well. In fact, I’ve had success freezing rice. So ready serve portions on rice, with glaze, should freeze for short periods- a week or so. Reheat in the Microwave.

New New England Boiled Dinner: Serves 4
A modern take on an old recipe. Ideally, this is made with thick slices of Canadian bacon,
but once common, that’s hard to find, and very expensive now. Slices of smoked turkey
can substitute for the ham.
Stock Pot: Short Simmer
1 lb. to 1 ½ lb. round bone ham slice-or smaller packaged slices
(2) 1 lb. bags frozen French cut green beans
(2) 14 oz. cans small whole potatoes drained
(1) 101/2 oz can beef consommé
(1)14oz can chicken broth
2 Tbs. butter
Cut the ham into 4 portions, and gently make tiny slits around the outside edges to
prevent curling. Melt 1 Tbs. butter in the pot over medium heat, and cook the ham pieces
on one side until their edges start to brown. Remove to a plate, and using the other 1 Tbs.
butter, brown the potatoes slightly. Remove from pot. Put the frozen green beans in the
pot, top with the potatoes, then pour in the consommé, and the broth, finally lay the ham,
browned side up, on top. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 15 min.
until beans are tender. Check timing with directions on bag beans came in.
No sides needed tonight!
Tortellini alla Panne: Serves 4
This is my personal favorite pasta dish, and I can say from experience, that smoked turkey will substitute for the ham.
½ lb. dried Tortellini or 1 lb. fresh – cheese stuffing
(1) 10.5 oz. can chicken broth, or 1 envelope bouillon and 2 cups water
½ lb. cooked ham – in ½ inch dice from the Deli in (2) ¼ lb. slices
(1) 10 oz. box frozen peas
1 Tbs. butter
1 cup heavy cream – half and half can be used, but not light cream*
Grated Parmesan
Cook the Tortellini in the broth- -8 min. for the dried, 5 min for the fresh. Meanwhile, heat the ham and peas with the butter, over medium heat in the skillet. Drain the Tortellini and add them to the skillet along with the cream. Continue cooking over low heat, gently stirring until the pasta absorbs all the cream. Serve at once, lightly sprinkled with the Parmesan.
*Whole milk and light cream separate and curdle when boiled.

Cheese Fondue: Serves 4
I first ate this fondue in the home of friends in Switzerland. Perhaps it’s the fact that I know it’s authentically Swiss, possibly it’s the lingering amazement of how quickly dinner was made, and with so little fuss that night, but I’ve tried many cheese fondue recipes since and none have been as easy, foolproof and tasty as this. I really would recommend a Fondue Pot, but if you have to use a stove, lift the saucepan regularly to prevent clumping.
2 lbs. grated Swiss cheese – or very thinly sliced and cut in small pieces – rind removed
6 Tbs. flour
1 garlic clove cut in half
4 cups dry white wine
6 Tbs. brandy
Dash salt
Ground nutmeg
Ground black pepper
Toss cheese and flour to coat well. Rub the inside of the pot with the garlic. Over low heat, cook the wine until bubbles rise to the surface. Add the cheese, a few spoonfulls at a time, stirring constantly. Continue stirring until the cheese is melted, the mixture is smooth and begins to bubble. Add the brandy, nutmeg and pepper. Reduce heat until there is just enough to keep the fondue hot, without burning the bottom. It sounds far more difficult than it is, and made at the table, everyone can watch.

Serve with a variety of dippers – – Pieces of crusty bread,( just be sure the bread has the density to hold up to the sauce, otherwise it will be soggy, or break off and stay on the pot) or cubes of cooked meat –chicken, ham, cooked hot dogs, or vegetables – cherry tomatoes, broccoli or cauliflower flowerets, baby carrots, pieces of bell pepper, scallions, celery even fruits – or fruits, apple, pear, fresh pineapple or banana slices and on and on and on.

Poached Salmon with Dill Sauce: Serves 4
4 salmon fillets or steaks – about 24 oz.
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
1-1 ½ Tbs. dried dill weed-depending on taste
Mix the mayonnaise and sour cream with the dill until smooth and chill at least a couple of hours in advance to meld flavors. Boil enough water to cover, in a skillet or pot that easily holds all the fish. Slide the fish into the water and poach 5-8 min. per inch of width until it is opaque, firm and a pale pink . Remove from pot one at a time, and run under cold water until cool enough to slip off the skin and, if using steaks, carefully remove the bones without tearing the meat. Plate and chill the fish, covered to prevent drying if being made in advance. When ready to serve, plate the fish and top with equal mounds of the sauce. Garnish with more dill or chopped chives.

Baked Flounder Meuniere: Serves 4- Tilapia can also be used
4 flounder filets-about 1 ½ lb.
¾ cup white wine
3 Tbs. butter- cut in small pieces
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley OR 4 tsp. dried
Put the fillets in a glass baking dish, close together but not touching. Pour over the wine and spread the butter pieces equally over the fish then sprinkle the parsley on top, 1 tsp. per fillet. Bake at 350 deg. 5-8 min. per 1 inch of width, basting twice, until fish flakes easily. Serve at once hot, with pan juices as sauce.
Coconut Crusted Tilapia: Serves 4
4 Tilapia filets – about 1lb
1 cup plain Panko
½ cup sweetened coconut flakes – toasted
½ cup + mayonnaise
Lemon pepper
Step I- Preheat oven to 350 deg . Toast coconut on a piece of foil until golden, about 4 min. watching that edges don’t burn. When cool mix with Panko.
Step 2 – Place fish on a lightly oiled cooking surface, a pan or baking sheet. Completely cover the tops with a thin sheet of mayonnaise, more like a veneer. Dust lightly with lemon pepper.
Step 3 – Sprinkle with Panko-coconut mix, and bake 8 min. per 1 inch width of filet, until top is golden, fish puffs slightly and edges bubble. Serve at once
Note: I put the breading mix in an empty herb bottle with a shaker top. It’s easy to apply, and any extra can simply be stored in the bottle.

Mustard Chicken: Serves 4
This an excellent recipe for a busy weekend day because it can be partially cooked in the morning, or even the night before, chilled, and simply placed in the oven to finish. Just keep track of the total cooking time needed and add 10mins to the higher temperature and 15 min to the lower. Check the liquid level occasionally to keep it constant. No need to baste. This dish does freeze, and can be cooked frozen, just add 15 min to ½ hr. to the cooking time, depending on the oven temperature, for thawing.
4 chicken pieces, breast halves or thighs
2 Tbs. Dijon or Spicy Brown mustard
2 tsp. garlic powder
1 envelope chicken bouillon
2 cups water – estimate
Salt for brining
Rinse and clean chicken well. Place in enough water to cover and add 2 Tbs. salt to make brine and soak for at least 15min. Rinse well. Lift skin from meat with a rounded utensil like a butter knife, and fill each pocket with ½ Tbs. mustard. Place chicken pieces in an ovenproof pan, just large enough to hold them easily, and pour over enough water to fill 1 > 1½ inches in the pan. Sprinkle the envelope of bouillon on the water, and ½ tsp. of garlic powder on each of the pieces. Best baked in a 350 degree oven for 1 hr., but can be done at 375 degrees for 45min. Serve with pan juices on the side.
To Freeze- bake for 15min. less than the directed time. Cool, cover as directed, and freeze for up to 3 weeks. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator, add more broth if needed to
keep liquid at proper level. Cook at recommended temperatures 20 to 30 min.+ thaw time.

Chicken Pizza: Serves 4
It would be a real time saver if you cooked the chicken along with that for Recipe # 1, and had it ready in the fridge.
(1) 16 inch pizza shell, I like the ones prepared and sold in envelopes rather than the frozen*
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts cooked and cut in ¾ inch pieces
½ cup Riciata** OR equal amount green salsa
½ cup sour cream
1 large broccoli crown separated and blanched OR (1) 10 oz. box frozen broccoli cuts thawed and drained
1 small onion, halved and sliced thin
1 small green bell pepper in ¾ inch pieces
2 tsp. oil
1/8 tsp. lemon pepper
6 sun dried tomatoes, either in oil or reconstituted in the microwave, drained and in large dice (optional)
4oz can mushroom stems and pieces (optional)
4 oz. Monterey Jack cheese grated – Or optionally Pepper Jack
Preheat the oven to 410 degrees or temperature recommended on the pizza shell. Also check time of cooking. Microwave the onion and bell pepper with the oil and Lemon Pepper 2 min. Spread the sour cream over the pizza shell, then spread the Riciata sauce or salsa verde over that. Evenly scatter the toppings over the sauces, including the oil and seasonings with the onion and pepper. End with the cheese. Bake at 410 degrees for 15 min., or as pizza shell package directs.

  • (2) 12 inch flour tortillas can be substituted for the pizza shell (for anyone on a low carbohydrate diet) ** Riciata is a mild, flavorful sauce made from cilantro (found in most markets). If you want a spicier pizza use the salsa verde in the level of your choice or sprinkle a dash of red pepper over sauces.
    Stuffed Zucchini: Serves 4
    2 Large zucchini
    1 lb. ground meat, beef, sausage or mixed with turkey
    8-10 oz. tomato sauce-any flavor, commercial or home made
    1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
    Optionally-½ small onion grated, ¼ tsp. garlic powder or few drops of Worcestershire sauce
    Salt and pepper
    Split the zucchini lengthwise and scoop out seeds. Mix meat with the optional ingredients, plus salt and pepper and fill the zucchini halves equally. Top with 2 Tbs. cheese and bake at 350 deg. 30 min. or until zucchini is fork tender. Heat sauce, spoon a little over each zucchini and pass the rest with the cheese. Serve hot.
    Potato Hot Pot: Serves 2- This is easy and fast to prepare. Using canned, sliced potatoes cuts the cook time in half and reduces the prep skills required to only a can opener. Can be made in individual portions and cooked separately.
    15 oz. can diced tomatoes- drained juice reserved
    15 oz. can dark kidney beans-drained juice reserved-really any beans can be used.
    1 cup cut green beans –briefly cooked
    1 medium onion in ½ inch dice
    1 Tbs. oil
    4 hot dogs each cut in 6 pieces
    2 large potatoes-white or sweet
    Salt and pepper
    Cook the beans to crisp tender. Pierce the potatoes with a fork and microwave 3 min. When cool cut into thin slices. Saute the onion in the oil until soft, remove from heat. Add all the ingredients but the potatoes to the pot and warm slightly . Add enough reserved juice to give the consistency of chili. Ladle into oven-proof bowls and cover the tops with potato slices in a circular pattern. Bake 35-40 min in a 350 deg. oven until mixture bubbles and potatoes are golden. Serve at once.
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Sep 10

SAVING A TASTE OF SUMMER

At summer’s end we always feel a bit sad as we lose the warm, seemingly endless days but we quickly get distracted by the bright colors and spicy aromas of fall. Soon we’re on the fast track to the holidays, caught up in the moment, without time to think back. Then the lights fade and we find ourselves in the depths of winter, suddenly nostalgic for summer.

That’s when it’s a real perk to have something to remind us of the tastes and smells of summer-to reassure us that another summer is coming in a few months, if we just hang in there. It doesn’t have to be much, a spoonful of chutney, a sip of brandy will do, which is a good thing because most of us don’t have the resources, time or space for extensive preserving.

This is true of my situation and so I’ve discovered a few recipes for foods which help me capture a taste of summer to cheer me up in winter. They store well and don’t require much time or space to prepare but are packed with nostalgic flavor. However, these recipes are simply mementoes of summer, not winter provisions. My posting for Sept. 22, 2016 deals with the general rules for freezing vegetables and fruits for that purpose using Corn, Green Beans and Peaches as illustrations, if you want to learn more about that. Meanwhile, try making one or two of these souvenirs. You’ll be happy you did next winter.

RECIPES
WATERMELON PICKLE: To see more watermelon recipes go to Aug.30, 2018
1 Watermelon- Green rind peeled and meat removed. White rind cut in 1 inch cubes.
1 cup cider vinegar per pound
1 cup water per pound
1 ½ cup sugar per pound
3 inches stick cinnamon per pound
4 cloves per pound
1 Tbs. sliced ginger root per pound
Cover melon cubes with salted water and soak for 2 hrs. Drain and rinse well.  Boil in fresh water until half tender, about 10 min. Drain again and rinse in cool water. Weigh melon and measure the other ingredients into a pot accordingly and boil them for about ½ hr. until a syrup forms. Add drained melon rind and boil for another 10 min. or until rind is crisp-tender. Allow to cool and pack cubes with syrup, including spices, to cover, into glass jars with secure fitting lids. Store refrigerated. Keeps for a year easily.

Peach Brandy: For more peach recipes go to Aug. 16, 2018
Peaches –Alberta suggested
Sugar
Peel the peaches and place them in quart jars. Cover with sugar and allow to stand until sugar is dissolved and peaches render juice. Continue adding sugar and allowing it to dissolve until juice covers peaches. Seal jars with tight lids, wrap them in heavy paper to insulate them and keep out light. Store in a cool, dark place and after 3 months, strain off the juice to serve as a liqueur and slice the peaches as a topping or garnish. Store as any liqueur.

MINT SAUCE:
4 cups fresh mint –tough  stems removed
Cider vinegar to cover
Sugar or substitute such as Splenda to taste
Simmer the mint and vinegar in a pot until the leaves are cooked, about 8 min. Add sweetener to taste as the mint cooks. Do not over do. This should be sweet-sour when finished. Remove from heat, cool and process or blend until the mint is finely ground. Correct seasoning and pour into clean bottles. Let stand, uncapped until completely cool, cap and store in a dark, dry, cool place. Keeps for two years or more.
Use in salads, on cooked vegetables and to marinate or baste meat.
NOTE: I use sterilized salad dressing bottles—but only glass ones.

Apricot Chutney: Yield 3cups- Adapted from Food.Com*
2 cups apricots-pitted and roughly chopped
1 large red onion-diced
1 cup raisins
2 cups brown sugar
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 tsp. mustard seeds
1>2 tsp. salt-to taste
½ tsp., curry powder
¼ tsp. turmeric
1 tsp. allspice or cinnamon
1 Tbs. minced Serrano chili-optional
Place all ingredients into a large, heavy bottomed, pot. Stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to a low simmer. Let it simmer away for about an hour until it’s nice and thick. Keep an eye on the heat and stir often so it doesn’t burn. Fill sterilized canning jars to within 1/2 inch of the top. Screw on sterilized bands and lids securely. Store in a cool, dark place, refrigerate after opening.
*For more apricot recipes go to: Aug.9, 2018

ZUCCHINI: For more information and recipes go to: Sept.15, 2016

Due to high water content, zucchini doesn’t freeze well.  Whole or in prepared dishes, it deflates when thawed. I’ve had success freezing ¼ inch thick slices by plunging them first into boiling water for 1 min. then into ICE water for 2 min. drying them on towels and freezing them on a cookie sheet before bagging. So how does one deal with an excess? One of the best ways is to accept the fact that it’s going to change texture, become limp and combine it, with other ingredients, into a ‘base’, which will keep for several months, for future dishes. Food Tips and Cooking Tricks by David Joachim has an excellent recipe for such a base and ideas on how to use it but, of course, once made, you can use it as you please.
 
Zucchini Base; Yield 8 cups
5 lbs. zucchini –shredded*
1 onion -finely chopped
1 garlic clove- minced
2 Tbs. oil
Sauté onion and garlic in oil until softened. Add zucchini and stir until soft. Cool drain most of the moisture by squeezing in a towel or pressing in a colander. Freeze in desired sized containers with firm lids.

  • To shred, use a food processor or the large teeth of a hand grater, but avoid the seedy core.
    USES: Add salt and pepper as desired to all the below
    Chilled Zucchini Soup: 4
    Hot Zucchini Soup
    Primavera Sauce
    Stuffed Eggplant
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TOMATOES
I’ve tried preserving tomatoes by freezing them, what a watery mess, and, remembering my lessons from Italy, canning. I have to agree with Gordon Ramsey. The variety, quality and cost of canned tomatoes make home efforts pointless. The exception is dried tomatoes. They dehydrate well, are less expensive and of better quality than commercial.

Sun-dried are tomatoes that have generally lost 82-90+% of their original weight through the process of drying.  They lose the water but retain the sugar, sweetness, and nutrients, leaving the deliciously dried tomato flesh with an intense, concentrated tomato flavor, perfect for dishes where that wonderful tomato taste should shine through.

There are 3 ways to dry tomatoes, in a dehydrator, naturally or in an oven. #1 requires a special machine, #2 requires weeks of consistently dry, hot, sunny weather covered by nets to deter pests. #3 is the practical method we’ll use. Cherry and grape tomatoes are meatiest and have the most concentrated sweet flavor.  Roma (plum) tomatoes also work well if the pulp is hollowed out and discarded during prep.

To make sun-dried tomatoes in the oven
1)Prep-wash and slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise, spread them out in an even layer cut-side-up on a parchment-covered baking sheet, then season sparingly with salt.
2)Slow roast- in the oven for about 2 ½ to 3 ½ hr. at 250 deg., or until desired level of dryness.  Don’t flip or rotate the tomatoes during this time, but keep an eye on them near the end to ensure that they don’t burn.
3)Serve or store. The tomatoes are ready to serve or add to a recipe when cool.  Place them in a small jar then drizzle with olive oil until the tomatoes are completely submerged.  Place a lid on the jar to seal, then refrigerate for up to 1 week or use zip-lock freezer bags instead of containers. Force out all the excess air before sealing. Can be frozen without the oil.
Seasoning Options
1.Sea salt or kosher salt preferred

  1. Additional seasonings can include fresh or dried thyme, oregano, rosemary, or a little crushed garlic
  2. Season while roasting:  During the last hour of roasting, feel free to sprinkle on some chopped fresh herbs (such as rosemary, oregano, thyme, etc).  During the last half hour of roasting, sprinkle on some dried herbs and seasonings (such as Italian seasoning, garlic powder, onion powder, crushed red chili flakes, etc).
  3. Season after roasting: season in a jar with olive oil after roasting-bay leaf, a garlic clove or two or whatever fresh or dried herbs/seasonings appeal.
    Cooking Option:
  4. Cut the tomatoes in half. Place them side-by-side, cut-side-up in a ceramic or glass baking dish. They should fit together snugly but not overlap. 
  5. Sprinkle the tomatoes with sea salt. 
  6. Add olive oil. The oil should cover about 2/3 of the depth of the tomatoes.
  7. Place the dish in the oven and slow cook the tomatoes at 175 deg. for 3 to 5 hours. The exact time will depend on the size of the tomatoes you use.
  8. Cool completely, transfer to glass jars or other non-metal containers that are as airtight as possible when sealed.
    Approximate Seasoning Guide
    20 or more plum ripe tomatoes (Roma)
    4-5 tablespoons olive oil
    4-5 tablespoons olive oil
    2 cloves garlic chopped
    ½ tsp. salt
    1 tsp. oregano
    4-5 sprigs fresh Italian parsley-chopped
    Pinch or two pepper flakes

    HOW TO REHYDRATE SUN-DRIED TOMATOES: Sun-dried tomatoes stored in olive oil are perfectly edible (and delicious!) served right out of the jar.  But if you would like to rehydrate and plump them up a bit, just soak the sun-dried tomatoes in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain.  Or better yet, soak them in tomato juice to amp up the tomato flavor. 

Sep 3

SUMMER STONE FRUITS

The stone fruits of summer have more than their peak season in common. Now grown in nearly every country, they trace back over 3000 yrs.to Asian origins. Talk about all stars! However, they have another common bond. They are among the few produce items which are still strictly seasonal, so take advantage of them while in stores or prepare to wait a year.

In keeping with our changed tastes in 2020, I wanted to present a different take on them. These recipes are geared to fit three requirements. First, they had to be easy or fun to prepare especially in the heat of August most needing little or no cooking. Second, they had to fit the current preference for casual, even rustic presentations. Third, they had to be ‘off the beaten track.’ I didn’t want a repetition of the usual shortcakes, pies and mousse. If you want to explore some traditional recipes go to Aug.9, 2018 and Aug.16, 2018, Sept. 12, 2019, and Aug. 31, 2017. Even the familiar recipes below are new twists on the old standards.

I also had one other goal in mind. With the current interest in eating whole, fresh, naturally prepared foods, I wanted to keep these recipes mainly focused on raw fruits but I found this difficult with apricots. In other countries they are seen in bowls to be eaten as a quick snack, but here they are mainly found in stores and recipes, dried. This inspired me to seek recipes for fresh apricots but I found few of them, even in my oldest books or James Beard’s American Cookery, which is full of unique recipes.

Apparently, apricots preserve so well that the majority were ’put up’ for the winter months and the recipes served then. I determined to find uses for fresh apricots and, being summer, I wanted recipes which didn’t take hours in a hot kitchen. Quick, fresh and easy was my goal. I hope I’ve succeeded. Below is a sampling.

Finally, stone fruits have an advantage over others. The late and end of season offerings cook as well or better than the prime. So these desserts can carry into fall, becoming nostalgic because they mark definitive endings, both to the summer and to its luscious stone fruit, although the days can be just as warm and sunny as those in summer. The desserts featuring these fruits, serve to remind us that their season too, is past. These desserts symbolize the closing of the book on summer and all its special pleasures, for another year because unlike melons, berries and citrus fruits, stone fruits aren’t available all year. So enjoy them while they’re still here.

RECIPES
One of the best things about working with summer stone fruits is that they are so open to flavoring suggestions as well as being interchangeable in most recipes. Here are 3 delicious examples of dishes which work with any of them. They can be served with the fruit freshly sliced, or for a more finished presentation, with a quick conserve.

Quick Conserve: Per 1lb. fruit-place freshly sliced fruit in a bowl with ½ Tbs. lemon juice and ½ Tbs. sugar per pound. Allow to stand at room temperature about 20 min. until it forms a syrup.
Wonton Fruit Cups: Serves 12
24 wonton wrappers
2 Tbs. melted butter
1/3 cup fruit preserves—flavor complimentary to fruit filling
1 cup lemon yogurt or instant pudding-pie filling, flavor optional
1 ½ cups diced fruit
Line a 12 cup or (2) 6 cup muffin pans with a wonton wrapper. Brush with ½ the butter. Place a second wrapper diagonally across the first and brush with remaining butter. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 10 min. or until golden. Remove and cool. Spread 1 tsp. fruit preserves in each cup. Fold yogurt or pudding with 1 cup fruit and spoon into cups. Garnish with remaining fruit.

Shortcake
1 peach or nectarine, 2 plums or 3 apricots per portion-sliced
Sugar
Whipped topping
Almond extract-optional
1 recipe buttermilk drop biscuits, sponge cake shells or slices of pound or angel food cake
Sprinkle the fruit with sugar and a drop of almond extract if using. Let stand until glossy and moist. Chill. Build dessert as for any shortcake in layers starting with pastry, fruit and topping.

Stone Fruit Melba Cake: This is made with any unfrosted cake, plain, angel food even dollar store pound cake
1 lb. unfrosted white cake made or sliced into 2 layers
8 oz. whipped topping
8 oz. cream cheese
1 tsp. vanilla
Conserve made from 4 lb. fruit
Melba Sauce-see NOTE*
Mix vanilla, cheese and topping until very smooth. Spread ½ mixture on one layer, top with ½ the conserve. Cover with the second layer and, reserving 2 Tbs. spread with remaining cheese mix and all conserve. Pour sufficient Melba Sauce over and garnish with mounded reserved cheese mixture and a sprig of fresh mint or a few raspberries.

Melba Sauce: Yield 2 cups
2 cups raspberries
½ cup confectioners’ sugar
1 Tbs. lemon juice
¼ cup apple juice
Puree all ingredients, strain id a smooth finish is desired. Keep excess chilled. This sauce is available in store

PLUMS
Plum Rustica, or Galette, is the easiest type of pie to make. This is a short version of the recipe from my book Dinners with Joy:
Crust if making: mix
1 ½ cups flour, optionally substitute whole wheat pastry flour for half the regular.
¼ cup sugar
1/3 cup shortening
3 to 4 Tbs. ICE water to form dough
1/3cup chopped toasted almonds or walnuts-optional

Combine sugar and flour. Cut butter into flour mix until texture is like gravel. Add water and form a dough ball. Chill 20 min. then roll to a 12 inch round. Transfer to a parchment or foil covered cookie sheet, or a pizza pan for baking. Optionally, sprinkle 1/3 cup chopped, toasted nuts over the bottom for plums, a sprinkle of cinnamon works for the other fruits.
Depending on size, fill the center with a 1 lb. to 1 ½ lb. fruit, leaving a 2 to 3 inch margin. (Apples pears and peaches should be peeled and sliced. Plums and apricots can be halved and stoned.)
Dot fruit with ½ Tbs. butter. Sprinkle with 1 Tbs. cornstarch, 1 Tbs. sugar and ½ tsp. lemon juice.
Carefully fold edges of pastry up around filling, pleating as you go. The edges can be brushed with cream or egg white and sprinkled with sugar as decoration. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 min. Cool on sheet; preferably on a wire rack. This can be moved to a plate for serving, but as the name implies, it’s a “rustic” or casual pastry, and I like to bake it and serve it in a pizza pan.

NOTE: While still hot, combine ½ cup melted red currant jelly and 1 Tbs. Grand Mariner and pour over the top.

My Easy Plum Sherbet: Serves 4
(1) 30 oz. can of purple plums, pits removed, OR any other canned fruit
Pinch ginger-OR cinnamon for other stone fruits
Process the fruit to a puree, adding only enough syrup to get the proper texture. I use all of it with plums, but not with pears. (Save any extra syrup to flavor a granita.) Place the puree in a sealed container, freeze for 1 hr. and stir well. Repeat until entire container is of equal texture. If it seems too icy or clumpy, reprocess and repeat freezing procedure. Keep sealed in the freezer. Keeps as long as a commercial product.
NOTE: This can be made into an elegant dessert by punching a hole in the center of a scoop with a wooden spoon handle and filling it with a complimentary flavored liqueur.
Can also be made with fresh, roasted peach halves.

Plum Cake: Serves 8-From Landoll’s Creative Cooking Desserts
1 ½ cups stoned plum halves
¼ cup shortening
¾ cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup flour
½ cup whole wheat flour
1 tsp. baking powder
salt
¼ cup milk
1tsp.vanilla
½ cup chopped pecans
¼ cup brown sugar
½ tsp. cinnamon
Grease and flour a 9 inch square baking pan. Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beating until smooth. Mix flours, salt and baking powder; add alternately with milk to egg mix, beating well. Stir in vanilla. Pour into pan and arrange fruit over top. Combine garnish ingredients and scatter over the fruit. Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven 30 min. Cool in pan.

Roaster Plum Stuffed Chicken Rolls: Serves 4-From 500 3 Ingredient Recipes by Robert and Carol Hildebrand
3 plums-stoned and halved
2 ½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken breasts, with lobes
1 medium red onion-diced
¼ cup olive oil-divided + 1 tsp.
Roast the plums, tossed in 2 Tbs. oil with salt and pepper to taste in a 350 deg. oven 15-20 min. Cook the onions in the remainder of the oil over low heat in a covered pan until soft. Chop plums and add to onions-cool. Pound the chicken breasts between sheets of plastic wrap until each is a uniform thickness of about 1 inch. Place ¼ of the plum filling down the center of each breast and roll like a burrito, folding the ends over first. Lay the breasts seam-side down in a pan, brush with the 1 tsp. oil sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast at 350.deg.25-35min.until done. Allow to rest 5-7 min. and serve sliced into 4-5 rounds each.

PEACHES/NECTARINES –These are interchangeable in most recipes since nectarines are actually a smooth-skinned species of peach. However, they don’t skin easily as a peach does so choose the recipe with care. The Peach Pizza would tolerate the skin but not the meringue pie. Peeling them is a breeze. Just dip them in boiling water for about 10-15 sec., run them under cold water and the skin peels off like a tomato. If they could stand a bit of softening, leave them in the water a minute or two.

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NOTE: Peaches are wonderful accompaniments to any poultry dish. Grill halves along with the meat in summer or broil them, fresh or canned, sprinkled with cinnamon in the oven. They are great roasted for just about anything but eating out of hand, even pie fillings. They carmelize and get a depth of flavor that really carries a dish. Place the halves, cut side up, in a baking dish with a bit of water in the bottom and bake in a 425 deg. oven until desired doneness or for 20 min. for fully roasted.

Fruit Pizza: Serves 8-10
Make dough as instructed above, increasing sugar to ½ cup and shortening to 2/3 cup.
If buying; purchase a roll of sugar cookie dough, not pie dough. Roll dough to fit a pizza pan, prick several times with a fork and bake as for cookies, 350 degrees for 10 to 12 min. until lightly browned, or as directions on package state.
Cool completely in pan.
Decoratively arrange raw fruit over the crust. The amount you will need depends on the chosen fruit, roughly about 1 ½ lbs. For July 4th use a combination of strawberries and blueberries. Top with a glaze made from a clear jelly, apple or current, melted with 1 Tbs. water per ¼ cup jelly. For a thicker glaze dissolve ¼ tsp. cornstarch in 1 Tbs. water per ½ cup jelly, which is the amount I use for one of these. Boil until clear and spoon over the fruit. Chill until completely set. Serve in wedges and optionally pass whipped cream, or ice cream.

Peach Crisp: Serves 6
9 ripe peaches, peeled and sliced
½ cup softened butter
1 cup flour
1 cup sugar
½ tsp. cinnamon
½ cup slivered almonds-optional
Place peaches inn a greased 9 inch baking pan. Sift last 4 ingredients and work in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Sprinkle over the peaches and bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven 45-50 min. Serve warm or room temp with ice cream or a whipped topping

Fresh Peach Meringue Pie: Serves 6-8
4-5 cups peeled, sliced peaches
Pastry for a 1 crust 9 inch pie
2 Tbs. peach or all fruit jam
2 egg whites
½ cup sugar
Few drops vinegar
Line pie plate and bake crust until golden. Cool and spread jam over the bottom, then fill with the peaches. Beat the whites until peaks form, add a few drops of vinegar, beat in and continue beating while adding sugar until stiff peaks form. Spread meringue over the top of the pie, being sure to cover right up to the crust edging. Decoratively swirl the top with a spoon and run the pie under a hot broiler until golden on top, about 2-3 min. Store several hours at room temperature, chill leftovers.

Peach Chutney: Yield 1 quart-From The Bon Appetite Cookbook 2006
4 scallions-chopped
¼ cup dried currants or raisins
1 Tbs. sherry vinegar
2 tsp. grated fresh ginger
1 ¾ lb. peeled, peaches in 1/3 inch cubes
Sliced toasted almonds-optional
Combine and chill for up to 6 hrs. Can be served as an accompaniment, salsa or flavoring in rice or a salad.

APRICOTS Resembling small peaches with a slightly more acidic taste and less juice, apricots are the perfect on-the-go snack, able to be consumed in four bites, leaving no drippy mess.

Dump Cake: Serves 12
4-5 cups sliced peaches or nectarines, halved or quartered plums or apricots
½ cup white sugar
½ cup melted butter
1 tsp. cinnamon
(1) 18.5 box of cake mix-flavor optional
Place fruit in the bottom of a 9 x 13 inch pan and mix with sugar and cinnamon. Scatter dry cake mix over the top and pour melted butter evenly over it. Do not stir! Bake in a preheated 350 deg. oven about 30 min. until golden on top. Serve with ice cream or whipped topping.

Quick Apricot Ice Cream: Yield about 1 gallon
4lb. apricots-stoned and pureed
¼ cup sugar
Pinch salt
Drop almond, vanilla or rum extract-optional
½ gallon vanilla ice cream
Mix the extract, salt and sugar with the pulp and let stand to dissolve . Mix the pulp in with the softened ice cream-partially, leaving a ripple effect is attractive-or fully incorporate the two. Place in a covered container and freeze until firm-best overnight at least.

Puff Pastry Tart: Serves 6-8– A Martha Stewart Recipe
1 cup shelled toasted pistachios + 1 Tbs.
½ cup sugar
1 stick butter pulse
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Pinch salt
Flour for dusting
1 lb. box puff pastry-thawed
1 ¼ lb. apricots cut in ¼ inch slices
1 egg yolk
1 Tbs. heavy cream
2 Tbs. raw sugar-granulated O.K.
¼ cup apricot jam

Pulse the 1 cup nuts, sugar and butter into a paste. Add next 3 ingredients and pulse to combine. Set aside.

On a lightly floured surface, press edges of both pastry sheets together to form one large sheet. Roll out to a 9-by-17-inch rectangle*; transfer to a baking sheet. Spread reserved pistachio mixture over dough, leaving a 3/4-inch border. Position rectangle so that a short end is nearest you. Arrange apricots on top in 4 vertical rows, alternating direction in which apricots face from row to row. Fold in edges of dough; use your index finger to make a scalloped border. Refrigerate until cold, about 30 minutes. . Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Whisk together yolk and cream; brush egg wash over edges of tart shell. Chop remaining tablespoon nuts; sprinkle nuts and turbinado sugar over apricots. Bake, rotating sheet halfway through, until crust is deep golden brown and fruit is juicy, about 35 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack. . Meanwhile, heat jam with 1 ½ tablespoons water in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring, until thinned, about 2 min. Pass through a fine sieve into a small bowl. Brush glaze over fruit.

*NOTE-tart can also be baked in a conventional tart pan with a removable bottom

Apricot Chicken: Serves 8
8 thighs
1 packet onion soup mix
(1) 14 oz. can apricot nectar
1 lb. apricots-halved
Preheat oven to 350 deg. Place chicken in a 9×13 inch baking dish. Mix together soup mix and apricot nectar. Pour over chicken. Bake for 55 minutes. Sprinkle apricot halves over and around chicken and cook another 10 min.