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May 31

KABOBS FOR FATHER’S DAY 2018

Ask anyone in the restaurant business the difference between Mother’s Day and Father’s Day and they’ll reply that reservations are needed for the first one. Funny, in a time when most women work outside the home, couples share chores and the majority of men know their way around the kitchen, the perception persists that women should be taken out and men be served a special dinner in their “castle.”

Whether you plan to eat at home or out, I’m sure you’re aware that the cost of food for a weekday meal, much less an ‘event’ one has gone up—again. Solutions, however, aren’t always about solving problems. Sometimes, they’re about finding ways to adjust to them. To answer the question of stretching the food dollar, especially for special occasions, I don’t advise the old method of simply adding another potato to a pot of stew. I ask you to consider the skewer and what it is used to create, the kabob.

Kabobs are really neat! They can be made to satisfy any food serving requirement from appetizers to dessert, to fit any occasion from casual to formal, are wide open to innovation and individuality, are able to adjust to any ethnic or dietary interpretation, and can be cooked on outdoor or indoor grills (see my blog Aug. 30, 2012), even in the oven or on the stovetop. Best of all kabobs rank right up there with stews and casseroles as a means of stretching meat, but are subtle about it. Like magicians, by allowing the meat to stand out, rather than hiding amidst other ingredients, it always seems more than ample. Even if you still want to use beef tenderloin, for example, you can always count on needing one quarter less the amount per every four portions, than you would have to buy if you served plated fillets. By adding other items to the skewers, you can reduce the amount even further. Another beauty of kabobs is that most recipes in all cuisines, call for a flavoring marinade which also tenderizes. This allows you to choose a less expensive cut. In fact that might be the better option, because very tender cuts can become too soft after marinating.

There are several ways to maintain the illusion of offering an abundance of meat. The size of the skewers makes a difference. For example, three cubes of meat on a 6 inch skewer accompanied by a skewer of the same length or slightly longer filled with vegetables, appears an ample portion and makes a nice presentation on a plate. Slices of meat can be folded over, or around a piece of vegetable or fruit, then skewered. Most often, though, I use 12 inch skewers with a minimum of 4 pieces of meat interspersed by vegetables. For entertaining, to save grill space and to assure everyone eats at the same time, I use 17 inch skewers. I may thread the vegetables alternately with the meat, or use separate skewers, depending on the cooking times, but I empty all the kabobs on a serving platter which is passed with a bowl of bedding foods, rice or perhaps greens and I have a couple of extra kabobs ready to go on the fire as we sit down so I can offer seconds.

It’s important, when threading kabobs, that all the ingredients have uniform cooking times. Otherwise use separate skewers. It’s also important when choosing ingredients and marinades to remember that, although kabobs are designed to cook quickly, about 20mis, on average, sugar can burn even faster.

Unlike barbeques, kabobs don’t require heavy basting sauces, but they do rely on delicate vegetables and light, often juice based marinades. Sometimes they even incorporate pieces of fruit. Fruits, juices and many bottled marinades contain sugar, so check nutritional information when planning kabobs. Most published recipes, however, have taken this fact into account.

Another advantage of kabobs is that they make clean-up easy, with no roasting pans or heavy pots to wash and only a few utensils. Moreover, prepping can be done, should be done, hours in advance and the actual cooking is quick and effortless. I don’t think any other type of meal offers so much time to relax and enjoy one’s family and friends. If you want to spend Father’s Day with Dad, this is your way to do it.

Before I move on to recipe suggestions, I want to add a few words about skewers. Bamboo skewers must be soaked before use or they will burn. A good way to have some always ready is to wet them then store them in the freezer. The thing to remember about metal skewers is that they become very hot and tend to cook the food from the center as well. If the aim is to serve the meat rare, then they need careful watching. With both types, the meat can stick to the skewer as it cooks and the solution is to spray the skewers first with cooking oil. Food tends to swivel on metal skewers as they’re turned on the grill, and I’ve found using a long spatula to gently roll them is better than lifting and turning. Another answer is to double skewer, but be sure the ingredients are stable and large enough to stand being pierced twice and still hold up during cooking.

So Happy Father’s Day to all you Dads out there and to the families who are enjoying it with you! I hope these recipes will enable you to relax and spend more time together.

BEEF
These are two recipes from my book. Dinners With Joy. The marinade can be used for the second dish as well as the first. In fact, I’ve found that poultry and pork can be substituted for beef in either recipe.
MY OWN KABOBS: Serves 4
2 lbs. Top round London broil
2 Tbs. red wine vinegar 20 cherry tomatoes
1/3 cup oil 2 green bell peppers-in 20 large pieces
1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce 2 large onions-cut in 8ths and separated into 20 pieces
2 tsp. dried thyme-divided 25 large button mushrooms- caps separated
2 tsp, dried rosemary-divided
2 tsp. garlic powder-divided (1) 7oz box long grain and wild rice
2 tsp. dried mustard –divided (5) 12 inch skewers
1tsp. paprika-divided
Trim the meat well and place in a non-reactive pan large enough to hold it comfortably. Mix the next 3 ingredients and pour over the meat. Mix the remaining ingredients in that column and sprinkle ½ over the meat. After 2 hrs., turn the meat and sprinkle the rest of the seasonings over the other side. Continue marinating and turning every few hours for at least 6, and no more than 10. Cut meat in 25 pieces. Reserve marinade. Thread the skewers, beginning and ending with meat, alternating with sets of the vegetables. I find they hold better if you use the natural curved shape of the peppers and onions as parentheses to encase the tomatoes and mushrooms, one of each per set and use the extra mushroom caps as stoppers at the end of the skewers.
Cook the rice according to box directions adding the chopped mushroom stems, using the reserved marinade to replace an equal amount of water. Keep the rice warmed while the kabobs cook.
Cook the kabobs according to your grill requirements, or under a broiler for about 10 mins. Be sure to place far enough from the heat source to prevent the vegetable skins from burning.

STEW ON THE GRILL: Serves 4
Originally intended for steak, this recipe can use less tender cuts, and a marinade, like the one above or other meats. In that case, forget the rice and use the marinade to baste, or simmer it and pour over the meat as a finishing sauce. The meat can be cut into individual portions, cooked whole and sliced or cut and skewered.
2 lbs. beef
2 large all-purpose potatoes – halved crosswise 1 tsp. dried basil
2 large onions – halved crosswise 1 tsp. dried oregano
2 medium zucchini-halved lengthwise 1 tsp. garlic powder
2 medium yellow squash-halved lengthwise 1 Tbs. oil
8 cherry tomatoes 1 tsp. lemon pepper
1 large green bell pepper- cut in 1/4s then into 1/8ths. Salt and pepper
(4) 6 inch bamboo skewers—-pre-soaked
Skewer the onions, one half per skewer, parallel the cut so they don’t separate into rings. Microwave 2 mins. Divide the peppers and tomatoes among the skewers. Microwave the potato halves 3 mins. rotating once. Mix the seasonings and oil. Coat all the vegetables and marinate at least 30 mins. The grill time will depend on the type and cut of meat you’ve chosen, but grill the vegetables along with the meat, allowing at least 15 mins. for them and checking for doneness. Move them to the side to stay warm, if they begin to get overdone.

CHICKEN
Chicken is the most popular meat for the grill, globally. It’s usually cooked on the bone, not as kabobs, but when it is, boneless, skinless pieces are often cut into strips and threaded on the skewers like ribbons, not into cubes and stacked like beef. This is the regular way of presenting it in Oriental satays but there are many, many recipes for them, with different sauces. Indeed there are so many recipes for grilled chicken in general, that I thought I’d give you some more unusual ones for a special day.

FOUR MARINADES: Each recipe calls for 2lbs. of boneless, skinless chicken cut into 1 ½ inch cubes and each provides about 6 servings.
1. Lebanese Style:
5 cloves garlic-minced
½ cup fresh lemon juice
2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme—1Tbs. dried
1 tsp. paprika
1/ cup oil
1 tsp. salt and pepper to taste ( optionally add ¼ tsp cayenne as well

)
2. Egyptian:
3 cloves garlic minced
½ cup oil
2 Tbs. ground cumin
1 Tbs. ground coriander
1 onion gated
½ tsp. cayenne pepper

3, Turkish:
6 Tbs. oil
4 cloves garlic- minces
(1) 8oz cup plain yogurt
1 Tbs. paprika
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
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¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
(1) lemon juiced
½ tsp. ground black pepper

3. Moroccan:
(1) lemon juiced
½ cup melted butter or oil
1 Tbs. paprika
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground ginger
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper to taste
Make your chosen marinade and allow the chicken to absorb it, refrigerated, at least 6 hrs. or overnight.
Bring to room temperature before cooking. Thread on skewers alone or with vegetables. Use reserved marinade to baste as the meat cooks to avoid drying, but discard any unused. The choices of vegetables to intersperse with the meat are: bell peppers, onions, cherry tomatoes, zucchini , yellow squash,

Don’t forget, as I mentioned two posts ago for Memorial Day, an easy, quick marinade or just basting for chicken is a bottle of French, Caesar or Ranch salad dressing. Chicken done this way would be tasty paired with grilled or broiled peach halves and/or the vegetables suggested for the other marinades.

PORK:
Like chicken, pork is a popular meat for grilling and there are many recipes out there. So I’m only going to give two variations of one marinade to show how changing just three ingredients can alter a standard recipe to yield two very different tasting entrees. One thing they have in common is that both are examples of how kabobs can save on the amount of meat used. Normally, two pork tenderloins would be needed for 4 servings, but here only one of slightly over 1lb. will do.
The Basic Marinade The Altered One
½ cup oil
½ cup soy sauce (1) large lemon juiced + 1 Tbs. grated zest
2 Tbs. minced onion
1 tsp. minced garlic
2 Tbs. chopped crystallized ginger 3 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano OR 1 ½ Tbs. dried
2 Tbs. lime juice 2 Tbs. red wine
Allow the meat to marinate about 6 hrs. Cut in 1 to 1 ½ inch cubes and baste with the reserved marinade. In addition to the vegetables mentioned above to thread on skewers with the meat, sweet potatoes are a nice option. Simply cut them in half and microwave about 2 mins. until crisp tender, peel, cut into cubes and thread on the skewers with the other kabob ingredients.
Ham:
Though not usually thought of in the grilling category, ham makes great kabobs and the neat thing is that you can use leftovers from a roast or buy deli ham. For 4 servings:
4 ham steaks or thick slices
1 ½ cups cream sherry – not cooking sherry
½ cup oil
2 tsp. paprika
2 Tbs. Dijon mustard
2 Tbs. brown sugar
2 tsp. garlic powder
Combine all ingredients but meat in a bowl. Cut the ham into 1 ½ inch squares, and marinate for about 2 hrs. Stir frequently to turn. Thread on skewers with vegetables of choice and cook for about 10 mins, basting frequently with marinade. Heat any remaining marinade to make a finishing sauce. A nice addition is to cook additional skewers with cubes of fresh pineapple and optionally, Maraschino cherries to serve as accompaniments.

SEAFOOD KABOBS:
Shrimp:
Another meat with loads of recipes to choose from! I’m a fan of James Beard’s Barbecued Shrimp marinade, because the shrimp gains flavor yet is still compatible with a variety of accompaniments. No matter the recipe you choose, there are some general rules to follow.
1) Always buy raw shrimp if you’re planning to present them in any way other than cold with a dipping sauce or in a salad.
2) It’s hard to put other ingredients on skewers with shrimp because they cook so quickly and become rubbery when overdone.
3) Remember to thread them lengthwise, piercing them twice. Otherwise, they can easily break off the skewer and fall through the grill. They do well under a broiler, but cooked in a basket, they can overlap and be unevenly done.
4) Always de-vein the shrimp before cooking, even if you’re serving it in shell. Several brands offer shrimp with the shell split and the vein removed and you can do this yourself with a sharp knife or a manicure scissors. Failure to remove the vein could present a health hazard.
5) Buy shrimp with a maximum of 30 per pound. Any more are too small to skewer or grill well.
Beard’s Barbecue Marinade: Per 1 lb. shrimp
½ cup oil
1 clove minced garlic
2 Tbs. chili sauce
1 ½ Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
½ tsp. Tabasco sauce
1tsp. basil
½ tsp. salt
Mix all the ingredients in a nonreactive dish and marinate the shrimp for several hours tossing frequently. Cook by any method just until pink on both sides. Serve with any dipping sauce or with boiled reserved marinade and vegetables over rice. Alternatively, prepare other skewers with cubes of lightly oiled focaccia or olive bread sprinkled with rosemary and toast them. Serve those and the shrimp on a bed of lettuces, (and please, some arugula,) tossed in a light vinaigrette with sliced artichoke hearts, sliced black olives, capers and thin raw onion rings. Avocados and boiled eggs are also options.

Fish Kabobs: Serves 6—can be made with Swordfish, Marlin, Tuna or Salmon steaks (with slight variations)
2 lbs. fish steaks cut in 1 inch cubes
¾ cup oil
½ cup lemon juice
1 bay leaf crumbles
Tabasco sauce to taste
2 cucumbers cut In 1 inch slices
stuffed olives
Mix oil juice and seasonings in a bowl and marinate fish for at least two hours stirring frequently. Thread on skewers alternating fish with cucumbers and olives. Use reserved marinade to baste and reduced as a finishing sauce.
For Salmon: Substitute dill weed for bay leaf and Dijon mustard for Tabasco.
Grill or broil 10 min. turning once.

Scallops are wonderful served as kabobs, but their delicate flavor dosen’t stand up to marinades. They cook quickly and are best prepared with a light brush of melted butter, or spray of oil and a squirt of lime. They cook quickly, so other ingredients can’t readily share the skewer, yet they need room to be thoroughly done. The best way to build the kabob is to alternate the scallops with thin, lengthwise slivers of fresh lime. The only other possible additions to the skewers would be to place a thin slice o ham on top of each scallop as it’s put on the skewer.

May 24

PUFF PASTRY IS BOTH ELEGANT AND PRACTICAL

My post on appetizers reminded me how versatile puff pastry is and what fun it is to work with. It gives the impression of luxury but is actually very practical and can make even the humblest of fillings or flavoring ingredients appear elegant.

To share a trade secret with you, personal chefs working for one employer on a daily basis are expected to make everything from scratch. Personal chef service owners have many clients with monthly appointments. During each session, the chef delivers the food, preps it and cooks, usually, 4 or 5 entrees with a combined total of 20 servings, individually packaged for freezing. There isn’t time to make everything from scratch, so these chefs rely on using a few good commercial products.

One of my favorite go-tos is commercial, frozen puff pastry. As a rule, I make my own dough, because I l can make better than I can buy but I can buy better puff pastry than I can make. I don’t feel guilty either because Cordon Bleu trained Julia Child and Alma Lach both mention the option of choosing the excellent commercial brands available. Puff Pastry is notoriously time and labor intensive to make, with often ‘iffy’ results for the inexperienced.

However it is necessary to understand how it’s made to be able to work with it. The French call puff pastry dough ‘pate feuilletee’ or ‘pastry of leaves’. In fact, one class of dessert is called ‘Mille Feuille’ or ‘thousand leaves’ because it consists of multiple layers of delicate, flaky pastry. The ‘puff’ comes from air trapped between the layers which escapes during baking.

The best modernized directions I’ve seen for making puff pastry are in Dione Lucas ‘version in The Cordon Bleu Cookbook. They simplify the classic instructions but will give you an idea of the original.
‘Put 1 cup flour in the middle of a board, mix in 1 tsp. salt and making a well in the center add ½ to ¾ cup ice water and work to a paste. Roll out to a 12 inch square. Put 1 cup butter in the center of the bottom half and fold over. Chill for 15 min. Roll out with angled short strokes, turning the board around as you work to spread the butter over the surface between the layers, ending with the dough in a long strip. Fold 1/3rd over the center, and then fold the top 1/3rd over them. Roll again and chill, covered, for 30 min. Fold, roll, fold, roll and chill 3 more times. Chill for several hours, then either freeze or use.’

Carole Clements and Elizabeth Wolf-Cohen in Classic French Recipes For Special Occasions modernize the process a step further by using a processor. They change the flour to 1 ½ cups cake flour and lower the salt to ¼ tsp. They pulse the two to combine, then add the butter for 3 or 4 pulses and run the machine 5 sec. while slowly pouring in the water. The dough should look curdy with visible pieces of butter. Gather into a ball on a floured surface and chill 30 min. if the butter is soft. Roll out to a 16 x 6 inch rectangle and begin the folding and rolling sequences described in the above recipe.

Now you know why I prefer to buy puff paste over making it, and at today’s butter prices, I don’t even think it’s an expense. The folding process is tedious, but it creates those wonderful ‘leaves’ which also require some special considerations in working with them.

  • Always thaw puff pastry before cutting it or it will crack jaggedly, but don’t worry it refreezes
  • Never slice the pastry. Use a pizza cutter or the point of a sharp knife in a series of straight cuts
  • Don’t press scraps into a ball to save them. Gently press the edges together with a mist of water and roll to seal the seam. Freeze to keep.
  • When baking make sure the sheet is lightly oiled, greased or covered with parchment. For single layers, to insure that the top surface stays smooth and flat, cover with a second piece of parchment and weigh with another baking sheet or pie pan.
  • Puff pastry edges tend to be more even than pie dough, but trim them if necessary to form a straight ‘clean’ line before starting to cut shapes.
  • Before baking, it’s nice to ‘riff’ the edges every inch or so with a knife point to make sure they aren’t crimped and allow the air to escape and the layers to rise or ‘puff’.
  • Avoid using cookie cutters. They are too dull and they crimp the pastry edges, preventing the puff.
  • Always chill the pastry well before using, and always place in a preheated oven.

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Now that all the ‘Don’ts’ are out, let’s get into the fun side of working with puff pastry. I’m going to format this differently than most of my posts and concentrate on the pastry presentations rather than flavorings and/or fillings. So there will be more texts and suggestions, to illustrate how easy it is to use and all it can do and I’m listing the examples by shapes rather than recipes.

STRIPS

Parmesan Pinwheels: Makes 20-24

9 oz. puff pastry

1/3 cup finely grated Parmesan
2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh herbs of choice
1 egg beaten
Mix the cheese and herbs in a bowl. Roll the pastry out to an 8 inch square and sprinkle with half the cheese mix. Roll it again to a 10 inch square, brush with ¾ of the egg, sprinkle with the rest of the cheese mix and carefully roll it into a log. Seal the seam with the rest of the egg. Cut the log into ½ inch slices and place on a greased baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 425 deg. oven for 10 min. until golden and crisp. Cool on a rack. Store in an airtight tin.

Pinwheel Cookies: Makes 20-24
Substitute ¼ cup granulated sugar for the cheese and 1Tbs. ground cinnamon for the herbs. Follow the above directions. TIP: brushing the surface of the cookies with egg will make it shine.
NOTE- to make Bear Claws a.k.a. Pig’s Ears: Rather than rolling from one direction, do it from both sides in towards the center until they meet. Then slice as directed above and bake.

Bread Sticks: Makes 24
Roll dough to a 12 x 14 inch rectangle. Cover the surface of the dough with either option above, or ¼ cup sesame seeds, chopped nuts, sprinkled kosher salt or decorator’s sugar or just brush with egg to give a shine. Divide into (2) 7 inch pieces and cut each into (12) 6 inch strips. Twist the strips and stretching to keep them 6 inches long, place them on a parchment lined baking sheet, pressing the ends down so they don’t untwist in baking. Bake as directed above.

NOTE: In 3 inch lengths these are great appetizer snacks or dessert cookies. For dessert treats, bake them plain and dip 1/3 of each in melted chocolate. Cool and allow to harden.

RECTANGLES

Fresh Tomato Tarts: Makes 6- From Party Food by Parragon Publishing
9 oz. puff pastry
¼ cup pesto sauce

2 pts. Cherry tomatoes-halved OR 6 plum tomatoes sliced
Salt and pepper
1 egg beaten

Fresh herbs of choice for garnish
Roll the pastry out to a 12 x 10 rectangle on a floured board. Cut in half to make (2) 5 inch pieces, then cut them to make (6) 5 x 6 inch pieces. With a fork, score the edges of the pieces and brush with egg. Spread the centers with the pesto and top with the tomatoes, cut side up. Season lightly and bake in a preheated 400 deg. oven for 15-20 min. until puffed and golden. Serve garnished with herbs.

Mille Feuille: Serves 8-From Everyday Meals by Bon Appetit
1 pkg. puff pastry
1 egg beaten

2 Tbs. sugar
Cooking oil spray
Parchment paper
On a floured board roll the pastry out to 8 x 16. Cut into (16) 2×4 inch rectangles. Place on a parchment lined baking sheet, brush with egg and sprinkle with sugar. Coat another piece of parchment with the spray and place oil side down on the pastry. Cover with a second baking sheet and put in a preheated 400 deg. oven. Bake for 20-25 min. Cool. To serve place 1 rectangle on a plate, spoon fresh fruit, fruit compote, pie filling or stewed fruit over it. Top with another rectangle, at an angle looks nice, and spoon whipped cream or ice cream on the side.

Napoleons: Serves 12 – This is a modern, low-fat version of a French classic
1 sheet puff pastry
8 oz. cream cheese
8 oz. whipped topping
3 Tbs. toasted, chopped almonds

1 can chocolate frosting

1 egg beaten

Roll pastry into a 12×12 inch square and divide into (3) 4 x12 inch strips. Prepare and cook as directed for Mille Feuille and cool. Beat whipped topping and cheese until smooth, divide in half and add nuts and extract to half. Spread, spoon or pipe the cheese mix with the nuts down one strip of pastry, cover with a 2nd strip and spread, spoon or pipe with the plain cheese mix. Spread the frosting on the 3rd strip and place on top. Chill several hours until hardened. When ready to serve, slice into 1x 4 inch slices and place flat on the plates.

SQUARES
There are lots of interesting ways to use this shape.

Appetizers:

For appetizers simply cut the pastry into 3 inch squares and place a scant 1-1 ½ tsp. filling in the center; fold over diagonally and using egg as a sealant, press the edges together. Cut a small slit in the top of each and bake in a preheated 375 deg. oven for about 20 min. until golden. Can be made and frozen 1-2 weeks ahead, thaw before cooking. Suggestion for fillings:

  • Meat pate-liver, ham, chicken, crab or shrimp.
  • Thawed, chopped spinach mixed with a little cream cheese and nutmeg to taste
  • Sautéed chopped onion and mushrooms with a dash of Teriyaki sauce for flavor

Turnovers: Serves 4

For these, roll a sheet of puff pastry into a 12×12 inch square and divide in 4 equal pieces. Place about ¼ cup filling in the center and fold over diagonally, using egg to seal the edges. Slash 3 vent holes in the top and bake on a parchment lined baking sheet in a preheated 375 deg. oven for 30 min. until golden.

Turnovers are wonderfully useful. Filled with meat and/or cheese they can replace sandwiches.

However, they’re better known as a dessert and one of my favorites, filled with fruit, washed with egg and sprinkled with sugar to give a lovely, sweet glaze. Some suggestions for fillings are;

  • Slices of ham and cheese, with a smear of mustard, or slices of chicken or turkey, and a touch of chutney.
  • Cooked ground meat with optional seasonings.
  • Diced fruit, tossed with a bit of cornstarch, a sliver of butter and some sugar
  • Cooked fruit compote
  • Ready-made pie filling

Cornish Pastie

My Grandmother couldn’t resist improving on a traditional family recipe. A Cornish Pastie is essentially a 2-3 entrée sized turnover filled with drained cooked meat and vegetables, or frankly, stew. The drained broth from the stew pot is thickened, seasoned and made into gravy, which is passed on the side. Nana replaced regular pie crust with egg washed puff pastry which arrived at table golden and gleaming. She simply rolled it out to a 12 inch square and cooked it according to the turnover directions above, allowing 1 Pastie per 2-3 people. It turned a weekday dinner into a special meal.

Square Stars: Serves 6

These can be made in many sizes, but for this example: roll the pastry to a 10 x 15 inch rectangle and divide into (2) 5 inch strips, then cut them into 3rds making (6) 5 inch squares. Using a glass or jar lid, lightly indent a 2 inch circle in the center of each. With a square directly in front of you, calculate, or visualize the length of one side in 1/3s. (For that size piece, it’s about 1 ½ inches.) Now make a diagonal cut across the middle 1/3rd from the rim of the center indented circle to the outside edge of the square and curl the pointed piece under the top end of the slash over the corner behind it. Repeat with the other 3 sides and bake in a preheated 425 deg. oven for 10-12 min. until golden. Cool and fill the centers with any number of options; fresh or cooked fruit with custard, whipped topping and/or ice cream, tuna or another salad, a dip or pate, even a creamed entrée in place of toast.

CIRCLES

Patti Shells

The best known of this shape are Patti shells, which like the puff pastry sheets are available in the freezer section of most markets and of such high quality that considering other options is ridiculous. Just follow the directions for oven temperatures and cooking times. These are excellent vehicles for creamed entrees, Chicken a la King, Creamed Chipped Beef, with pearl onions, mushrooms and peas added to upgrade it. They’re also good with Asian dishes. I had a Vietnamese friend who hated rice but served the most amazing dishes in Patti shells. I remember a wonderful chicken curry—-

The shells also do dessert duty, filled with fresh fruit, cooked fruit compote or even canned pie filling (just cook the filling in a microwave about 5 min. first and then chill it or serve warm)

Galettes

Puff pastry makes a wonderful Galette crust. Roll out a sheet to a 12 x 12 inch square and round off the corners. Use a plate to indent an 8 inch circle in the center, and fill with fruit. Lift up the 2 inch margin and pleat it to enclose the fruit. Place on a parchment covered baking sheet and bake in a 375 deg. oven 30-40 min. until bubbling and golden.

NOTE; This is great way to showcase the summer stone fruits. Don’t slice, halve plums or apricots, peeled peaches, dust them with cornstarch, add a few slivers of butter and top with a bit of sugar. They pile neatly in the crust and it’s easy to hold them in place while folding up the sides. It adds to the appearance to brush the sides with egg and sprinkle with sugar.

Pie Shells

I knew a woman who, wanting to monetize her hobby, rented a tiny, tiny shop in a food mall. She hung 3 signs; one over the door: The Pie Lady, a second on the door: Open 10 A.M-6 P.M. Friday and Saturday and a third in the window: Pies Made on Order Only. The first 2 weekends, on the stated days, she offered slivers of several different pies. From then on she had a waiting list and had to hire help in a couple of months. Everyone raved about her custard pies, especially Lemon Meringue. Her secret was making the shells of puff pastry. They were light, tasty and remained crisp longer even refrigerated. Her trick was to roll it thin, about ¼ inch, brush with beaten egg, poke some holes in the bottom with a fork, and cover it with oiled parchment paper weighted with rice, dry beans or pie weights, even another pie plate. Bake in a 450 deg. preheated oven about 12 min.

May 3

BONELESS, SKINLESS CHICKEN ANSWERS EVERY NEED-PART II

Last week I started a discussion on the convenience value of skinless, boneless chicken breasts and thighs. They get a 5-star rating on just about every scale. The price is reasonable, they’re prepared for any recipe, cook quickly and shine in dishes from casual to formally elegant. Also, don’t forget, they’re acceptable substitutes in many recipes for turkey, pork and veal tool. In fact, they’re so versatile it’s conceivable to have them every day for several years and not repeat a recipe, as the mother of my daughter’s classmate was rumored to do.

This is especially true considering the limitless range these cuts offer for creativity, particularly when working with pan sauces, as pointed out last week. However, for those of us who like to take a break before diner and let the oven do the work rather than stand by the stove, they also offer a wide range of choices. Actually, oven cooking also allows for a lot of improvisation, it just understandably takes a bit more time to cook than sautéing does.

Most of the recipes for this method, work equally well with bone in chicken parts. So I’m going to quote from last week’s post to examine that option. To bone chicken, you need a sharp knife. I like a fillet knife, but a beginner might feel more control with a paring knife. The breast is simply a matter of placing the knife under the ribs and trimming them away from the meat with even slices. Remove the entire rib cage by slicing through the shoulder joint.

The thigh bone can first be sliced away from the meat on either side of the shank. Trim the bone from the meat at the rounded end. Holding that end up, separate the entire shank and cut around the larger end to free the bone.

It isn’t really cost effective to bone the breast parts, especially when feeding a family, not with the frequency of the BOGO sales on the prepped ones. The boned thighs, however, usually cost considerably more than bone-in and are less often on sale. Considering that they’re interchangeable with the breast meat in the recipes, it’s simply a matter of taste, removing the bone is a skill worth cultivating, especially when feeding a large family or entertaining.

The recipes below follow the same pattern as those in last week’s post. The first two dishes are classics associated with other meats, Veal Parmesan, and Pork Chops Basil. The second two are recipes devised for boneless, skinless chicken and the final two point the way to innovation. With three of the four spring holidays yet ahead, one a long weekend, it’s worthwhile to consider these menu options when meal planning.

RECIPES

Chicken Parmesan: Serves 4
This may be a little different from most recipes, but it’s the one I learned from friends in Florence, only with veal. An example of the how seamless the substitution can be.
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
¼ cup flour
2 Tbs. butter
2 Tbs. oil
(1) 4 oz. can mushrooms-stems and pieces-drained
(2) 8 oz. cans tomato sauce
4 oz. Mozzarella cheese- in thin slices or coarsely grated
¼ cup Parmesan cheese grated
Dredge chicken by shaking in a plastic bag with the flour, one piece at a time. Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat, and brown the meat lightly on both sides @ 6 min. total for the chicken, depending on thickness. Add oil as needed to prevent sticking. Remove meat to an ovenproof pan or dish that holds the meat close, but not overlapping. Sauté the mushrooms for 30 seconds in the pan juices, and turn off the heat. Pour in 1 can of the tomato sauce and deglaze the pan, pour it, with the mushrooms, over the meat. Repeat deglazing with second can of sauce. Cover, and seal the meat dish with foil. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 40 min. Remove pan and turn on broiler. Carefully, mindful of the steam, remove the foil, and spread the mozzarella evenly over the meat. Sprinkle the parmesan on top and broil until bubbly and beginning to brown.

Chicken Basil: Serves 4
This is an old family favorite. It can be refrigerated for three days, or even frozen for two weeks, after the baking, so it can be made ahead and quickly ready on a rushed night.
4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
½ cup flour
2 Tbs. garlic powder
3 Tbs. dried basil
½ a small can frozen orange juice concentrate mixed with water to equal the level of meat in the pan or apricot nectar undiluted
¼ cup cream sherry
Pound the meat between two pieces of plastic to an even thinness. Sprinkle half the garlic powder and half the basil in the bottom of an oven proof dish or pan that will hold the thighs closely but not overlapping. Dredge the thighs in the flour, by shaking in a plastic bag, one at a time, making sure they’re well coated. Place in pan, and sprinkle the rest of the garlic and basil over them. Cover and seal the pan with foil. Bake, preferably at 250 degrees for 1 ¼ hr., but acceptable at 350 degrees for 45 min. Remove from oven, turn on broiler, and lift foil. Dilute orange juice with the sherry and just enough water to come almost to the top level of the meat in the pan, and pour over or mix nectar with sherry. Broil until thighs brown and the sauce thickens.

Seasoned, Crunchy Chicken: Serves 4-Adapted from Family Living’s Hooray for Chicken
1 cup slightly crushed panko or whole wheat breadcrumbs
2 tsp. salt or lemon pepper
4 chicken thighs
½ cup sour cream
1 ½ tbs. lemon juice
2 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. celery salt
½ tsp. EACH garlic powder, onion powder and pepper
1 ½ tsp. paprika
1 tsp. dried parsley
2 Tbs. melted butter
lemon wedges-optional
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Chicken Cordon Bleu, Kiev and Alamo; Each serves 4
4 chicken boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 cup fine breadcrumbs
1/3 cup melted butter
Pound chicken between two sheets of plastic wrap and flatten to about ¼ inch thickness overall. Preheat oven to 350 deg. and lightly grease a pan large enough to hold 4 rolls comfortably or a baking sheet.
When filling the chicken be sure the smooth skin side is to the outside. Put the filling in the center and, folding the outside edges in to contain it, if necessary, roll the meat over the stuffing, secure with a toothpick and coat with the butter, then dredge in the breadcrumbs. Place the roll seam side down on the pan and bake for 40 min. Optionally, simply place in the pan, seam side down, sprinkle with seasoned crumbs and bake.
Cordon Bleu:
4 slices deli ham
4 oz. sliced Swiss cheese in 8 slices
Put a slice of ham topped with one of cheese in the center of each breast. Roll the meat over, optionally coat with butter, dredge in crumbs and place in the pan. Cook for 20 min. top with another slice of cheese and finish baking.
Kiev:
¼ cup butter-softened
1 clove garlic chopped
1 Tbs. chopped parsley
¼ tsp. EACH tarragon, salt and pepper
Mix the above ingredients, form into a roll about 3 inches long and freeze for 1 hr. or until hard. Cut the butter into 4 pieces, place one in the center of each piece of meat, roll, in this case, folding in the outside edges in because the butter filling will leak out as it melts, optionally coat in butter, bread and bake.
Alamo:
8 oz. Monterey Jack or Pepper Jack cheese in 8 slices
2 Tbs. taco seasoning mix
Mix the taco seasoning with the breadcrumbs. Place a piece of cheese on each chicken breast, roll, optionally coat in butter, dredge in crumbs and bake.

Chicken in Cumberland Sauce: Serves 4*
4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
(1) 14 oz. jar of red currant jelly
1/3 cup spicy brown mustard-or to taste
¼ cup toasted, slivered almonds
Melt the jelly in a saucepan, mix with the mustard and pour over the chicken in a lightly greased pan. Bake, covered at 350 deg. for 40 min. Uncover and bake 5-10 min. more until juices run clear and sauce is desired consistency. Serve garnished with almonds.
*NOTE: This recipe works with most flavors of jams and jellies both in the oven or as a pan sauce as illustrated by the Chicken in Cherry Sauce last week.. The mustard is always ‘to taste’ and may be replaced by horseradish, hot sauce or other condiments. A good example is the well-known Orange Chicken in which orange marmalade is combined with soy sauce.

Baked Walnut Chicken: Serves 4*
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs
1 cup panko
½ cup finely chopped walnuts
1 tsp. garlic powder
Salt and pepper
½ cup melted butter
Mix panko and nuts with seasonings. Coat chicken in butter and roll in nut mixture. Arrange meat in a lightly greased pan that holds them comfortably and pour any remaining butter over. Bake at 350 deg. for 1 hr.

*Alternative Recipe
Pecan Chicken: Serves 4-From Family Living’s Hooray for Chicken
4 pieces boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs
¼ cup EACH Dijon mustard and honey
1 cup finely chopped pecans
Mix mustard and honey, coat chicken and then roll the pieces in the nuts. Bake in a lightly greased pan at 350 deg. for 30 min. or until juices run clear.