Versatile Risotto – Traditional Risotto Recipes
The winter isn’t through with us yet. Another blast is forecast and though my soup repertoire isn’t exhausted, even I felt it needed a bit of R & R. Then I saw a box of Arborio rice in the cabinet that I had bought to make—Yes, risotto. I found my new go-to if I’m caught by a storm again
Strange I haven’t explored the subject of risotto sooner, given my background in learning Italian cooking first hand. Rice is to Northern Italy what pasta is to the South. I suppose the problem is that I remember it better in Italy as encountered in restaurants, a first course, rather than the main dish as served in homes. Moreover, in America we consider rice a side or bedding for other foods. In Italy, other ingredients are always incorporated into it either to make a first course or an entrée, never is it a side or a base for other food. Moreover, “fork fluffed” steamed or boiled rice is unknown, as are the pilafs, fried dishes and sticky rice found in other cuisines.
Centuries ago, Italians realized the rice grown in the Piedmont region could be cooked in a way that defied all rules of rice preparation, slowly in small amounts of liquid added gradually. The starch gave it creaminess and its resilient core let the grains retain character. The result was the happy creation of dishes like Risotto Milanese. The best one I ever tasted was on the train between Milan and Florence, where I was seated at table with a businessman who admitted that he commuted between the cities almost daily by car, but once a month he took the train just to have the risotto.
Despite its versatility and basic affordability, however, risotto has never gained the great popularity, even in Italy, of other foods like pasta or even bruschetta. I think the reasons may be that it has too much competition with rice dishes from other countries; that it’s confused with them as being too similar and mainly, that for many who do look up a recipe, it’s considered too labor intensive.
True you can’t put it in a covered pot and walk away, but it isn’t the attention demanding chore it’s rumored to be either. It takes about 30 min to make, but so do many meals. I find that as long as I keep an eye on it and stir every couple of minutes, for most of the process, I can prepare the other ingredients to go in it, make a salad or even cook something else. Toward the end it does require stirring to prevent it sticking but for a good risotto the time is worth the effort.
As an emergency ration, I will admit risotto has certain drawbacks. It’s great for the day you couldn’t get out, but it isn’t for the long pull. It must be served immediately hot, or it clumps, although, cold leftovers can be added to a soup pot, or molded into an oval patty and fried. On the other hand it’s a great dinner in a pinch. I had a neighbor, Grazia, in Italy who served it regularly to use up leftovers. When I asked her why she didn’t use pasta, she replied she didn’t have time to make proper sauces. So there you have it. Canned sauce was good enough for risotto, but not for pasta because as long as the rice is right, risotto can be forgiving of the other ingredients.
My neighbor’s recipe and some others are below, including Risotto Milanese according to the famous authority on Italian cuisine Elizabeth David.
Basic Risotto Formula: Once this is mastered the other variations fall into place.
Serves 6-8
6-8 Tbs. butter- In Southern Italy they use oil
2 cups rice
2 quarts liquid- usually broth-kept heated
1 medium onion, ½ celery rib ½ carrot, rib of fennel – all finely chopped*
4 oz. wine—usually white unless recipe states otherwise
*The traditional Italian base for soups, stews and gravies is called a soffritto and is a mix of finely chopped onion, celery, carrot and fennel (anise). Melt the butter in a deep pot over medium heat, sauté the vegetables until soft. Add the rice and sauté until it is very white. Add a ½ cup. white wine and stir until evaporated then start adding the heated liquid 1 cup at a time. Keep stirring the pot and as soon as the liquid has been absorbed add another cup until all the liquid is gone and the rice is creamy. The amount of liquid added at a time varies with the quantity being cooked. Usually the total is 4-6.additions.
Variations calling for meat or seafood require those ingredients be cooked separately first
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NOTE: The classic recipe uses the marrow of boiled beef or veal bones sautéed with the soffritto to enrich the flavor. Americans often use chopped chicken giblets, I prefer mashed chicken livers about ½ lb. for this number of servings but it is really an optional addition.
The classic recipe also calls for ½ tsp. saffron steeped in ½ cup of the broth and strained. I find a few strands crumbled into the risotto half way through cooking works just as well.
Use the ingredients and proportions listed above EXECPT
Reserve 1 Tbs. of butter
Omit the carrot, celery and fennel
ADD
About 1/8 tsp. saffron
4-5 oz. grated Parmesan
Half way through the cooking add the saffron and ¾ of the way through add half the cheese. Stir to incorporate. Stir the balance of the cheese and the reserved butter into the rice just before serving. Serve very hot. If rice appears to be getting dry, or starts to stick, add extra liquid, even water and stir to maintain creamy texture.
Risotto Variations: One rule: Any additions to a risotto must be fully cooked first. Cheese is always an option, but herbs and seasonings should be added with a gentle hand.
Ham and/or Peas: Finely diced ham and very small peas can be added at the end.
Seafood: is a favorite optional add-in especially in the coastal towns of Italy.
Sauté shrimp, lobster or crab and use the pan juices to replace the butter usually added to the rice as it finishes. Mollusks should be steamed and solid pieces of fish poached. Their juice can be used to replace some of the cooking broth as can bottled clam juice in any of the seafood variations, if you prefer a more full flavored taste. Don’t forget the finishing butter in these dishes.
Grazia’s Risotto:Make a full soffritto, onion, carrots, celery and fennel-optionally add bell peppers. Follow the regular directions but substitute canned tomato sauce for half the broth. Have any leftover meat in small dice or shredded, including any vegetables and heated through, perhaps microwaved. Stir into risotto at the very end. Leftover gravy or pan drippings can replace the finishing butter and any cheese included should be added as for Risotto Milanese. Grazia usually used beef or chicken, but also lamb and veal and adjusted the seasonings for each.
I’ve made many risottos over the years and enjoyed them, which makes me wonder why I’ve overlooked them for so long. Once the technique is mastered, and that can be done in the first try, they’re really made sort of on auto-pilot. As long as you keep an eye on them, they are quite simple, very uncomplicated and so rewarding on a cold night. The perfect dish to eat curled up in front of a fire—or a T.V.
